Hike along the Smugglers’ Trail: Adventure in Kaiserwinkl

It’s pouring rain, but that can’t stop us. The people who used to walk the Smuggler’s Path in Kaiserwinkl couldn’t pay attention to the weather either. We are more or less dressed in waterproofs and start the tour in Kössen.

The Smuggler’s Path in Kaiserwinkl is one of the most eventful hikes that Tyrol has to offer. This themed trail combines the breathtaking nature of the Entenlochklamm gorge with a thrilling history and is the perfect destination for families, adventurers, and nature lovers.

How the Smuggler’s Path Got Its Name

The route through the Entenlochklamm is ancient. Almost 2000 years ago, in the time of the Celts and Romans, it was an important mule track, a trade route for transporting goods with pack animals between the north (Bavaria) and the south (Tyrol). The narrow, hard-to-see gorge offered a direct and discreet connection.

However, the path gained its true “fame” as a smuggling route in the period of hardship after the Second World War until the 1960s. Due to border controls, customs duties, and the scarcity of many goods, illegal cross-border traffic between Austria and Germany flourished.

What Was Smuggled?

The demand for smuggled goods was quite different in Austria and Germany. This was certainly very good for the smugglers, as they could transport different goods on the way there than on the way back, and a thriving business developed from people’s hardship.

From Germany to Austria, the main goods were those that were scarce or expensive in Austria. These primarily included coffee, cigarettes, and rum. But items like razor blades or coffee beans were also sought after. In the opposite direction, mainly livestock (especially young cattle) and large wheels of cheese were transported across the border.

The smugglers, often ordinary people from the region who wanted to earn a little extra in times of need, carried the goods on their backs in so-called “Kraxen” (back carriers). Such a load could weigh up to 50 kilograms. The journey was arduous and dangerous, not only because of the steep, root-covered paths but also because of the constant danger of being caught by the customs officers (“Grenzern”).

The Route of the Smuggler’s Path

The path ideally starts in Kössen, Tyrol. From the parking lot in front of the tourist information office, simply follow the signs. We tracked our tour, which led to Klobenstein. If you wish, you can continue on the path from here to Germany. For us, the tour ended in Klobenstein due to the weather, and we took the bus back.

From the tourist information, follow the signs to Mühlbachweg, go under the main road, and cross the Staffenbrücke bridge. There is something to discover even on this section. For example, on the roundabout, there are two stones that are related to our destination. We pass the beautiful church of Kössen (it’s worth a look inside!).

Finally, we reach a path that approaches the Teufelsstiege (Devil’s Staircase). There is another parking lot here. The Devil’s Staircase is a very steep steel staircase with 69 steps that leads directly from the riverbank up to the hiking trail. From there, it’s an up and down journey along the valley.

The route is classified as an easy to medium hike but is not suitable for strollers. Sturdy footwear is recommended and was highly advisable in the rain. The path is not accessible in winter, during high water, or if there is a risk of thunderstorms.

The path largely follows the original smugglers’ route. You walk on narrow, sometimes rooty and rocky trails that give you a sense of the hardships of that time. Along the way, there are several spectacular viewing platforms that offer magnificent views of the gorge and the surrounding mountains of the Kaiserwinkl.

At several points along the path, information boards provide details about the history of smuggling, the geology of the gorge, and the legend of the Klobenstein.

A special highlight are the two mighty suspension bridges that cross the Großache river at a dizzying height and allow for breathtaking views down into the Entenlochklamm. The longer of the two steel suspension bridges spans over 55 meters across the gorge. From up there, you can watch rafting in good weather. We spotted some canoeists familiarizing themselves with the local conditions.

Pilgrimage Church of Maria Klobenstein

Crossing the lower of the two bridges, we reach the other side of the gorge. In the middle of the forest, as if out of nowhere, the pilgrimage church of Maria Klobenstein appears. It was built around a huge, split boulder.

The name “Klobenstein” means “cloven stone” and originates from an impressive legend that forms the basis of the pilgrimage.

Once, a pious woman, either a farmer’s wife or a praying woman from Kössen depending on the tradition, was on her way through the gorge. Suddenly, a massive boulder broke loose from the slope and threatened to crush her. In her mortal fear, she called upon the Virgin Mary for help. At that moment, a miracle occurred: the huge rock split into two halves, coming to rest on either side of the woman, who remained unharmed.

In gratitude for this miraculous rescue, a simple image of the Virgin Mary was initially placed at this spot. The cloven stone quickly became a place of worship and prayer.

A local custom has developed which says that a wish will come true if you pass through the narrow gap between the two halves of the rock without touching the stone. The wish must be silent and non-material. For engaged couples, passing through together is said to promise a long and happy marriage.

What is perceived today as a pilgrimage church is actually an ensemble of three different small sacred buildings that have been built over time:

Loretto Chapel (1701): This is the oldest of the chapels. It was built at the beginning of the 18th century to provide a worthy place of prayer for the growing stream of pilgrims.

Chapel of Our Lady of Perpetual Help or Grace Chapel (1731-1733): As the Loretto Chapel soon became too small, this larger chapel was built directly against the rock. It houses the baroque image of grace – a throned Madonna with child – which is the center of the pilgrimage today. Architecturally, it is simple but impresses with a richly stuccoed flat ceiling. The two chapels were later connected.

Lourdes or Well Chapel (1886): Below the cloven stone is this small chapel with a Lourdes grotto. Spring water, said to have healing properties, especially for eye ailments, bubbles from a well here. Many visitors fill up some of the “healing water” here.

Regardless of its religious significance, the place is felt by many people to be a special “place of power.”

A Place for Refreshments Below the Chapel

The Gasthaus Klobenstein is located right by the pilgrimage church. It has a cozy dining room and a large terrace. Due to the rain, we were drawn to the dining room, which was very full.

The inn offers traditional Tyrolean cuisine. We weren’t in the mood for savory food but rather for something sweet. Luckily, there was strudel!

How to Continue

fter a break, you can get back on the trail. First, you cross the suspension bridge again and follow the signs.
The path leads through a nature reserve with impressive rock faces, glacial potholes, and beautiful gravel banks along the Tiroler Ache river all the way to Germany.

Two routes are signposted:

• Short Loop (approx. 1.5 – 2 hours): From Kössen to the Klobenstein pilgrimage church and back over the two suspension bridges. This option is ideal for a shorter family outing.
• Cross-border Hike (approx. 6.3 km, approx. 2 hours one way): The entire route from Kössen to Schleching-Ettenhausen (or vice versa). A bus can be used for the return journey.

The Smuggler’s Path as an Interactive Adventure

For children and adventure-seekers, there is a “smuggler’s map” with puzzles and tasks. This map is available for free at the tourist information office. We also found it on an information board near the roundabout. There were also pencils there for important notes during the tour.

Additionally, the “Locandy App” can be downloaded. As a hiker, you slip into the role of a smuggler, have to bring a certain commodity across the border, and master tricky tasks along the way.

There are several stations during the hike. Here, you start the app and listen to stories about the Smuggler’s Path. The puzzles are partly not easy. We failed a few times but also didn’t visit every station and thus missed crucial information. So, it’s better not to miss any station!

Those who solve the puzzles can pick up a small surprise at the tourist information office in Kössen!

Did We Like It?

Despite the rain, the hike was simply beautiful! For me, the weather even had something special. The low-hanging clouds and the light fog made the surroundings seem almost more realistic. The only thing missing were the smugglers who would have been on the move here.

The Smuggler’s Path Hike at a Glance

Characteristic	Details
Difficulty	Easy to Medium
Distance	approx. 6-7 km (depending on the route)
Duration	approx. 2 – 2.5 hours (loop trail)
Highlights	2 large suspension bridges, Entenlochklamm gorge, Pilgrimage Church of Maria Klobenstein
Start/Finish	Parking at the sports field in Kössen or hiking parking in Ettenhausen (Bavaria)
Suitable for	Families with children (from approx. 6 years), hikers, nature lovers
Stroller-friendly	No

Good to know

The hike took place as part of a press trip.