Rubens’ legacy beneath the sky-scraper: Antwerp Cathedral

In the heart of Antwerp, a majestic structure rises with a tower that seems to touch the sky: the Cathedral of Our Lady, or in Dutch, the “Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal.”

The Cathedral of Our Lady is an outstanding example of Brabantine Gothic, a specific variant of the Gothic style that originated in the region of the former Duchy of Brabant (now parts of Belgium and the Netherlands).

History of a Giant: From Chapel to UNESCO World Heritage

In the 10th century, a modest chapel dedicated to Mary stood where the cathedral reigns today. However, Antwerp grew and developed into an important trading city. Its residents wanted a house of worship that reflected their growing wealth and piety.

After the church was granted the status of a parish church in 1124, it was subsequently expanded into a larger Romanesque church.

Around 1352, an ambitious project began: the construction of a giant cathedral! It was intended to be a church that offered space for thousands and whose towers were visible from afar. The builders relied on the most modern style of the time: Gothic. This meant high, slender columns, massive windows to let in light, and delicate stonework—all designed to draw the eye toward heaven.

A Project of the Century: The Construction of the 123-Meter North Tower

The construction of the cathedral was a mammoth project. Masons, stonecutters, and craftsmen worked tirelessly. The nave and side aisles were completed bit by bit. The north tower also reached its intended height. At over 123 meters, it was one of the tallest towers in the world at that time! There were even plans for a south tower that was supposed to be even taller, but it was never finished. In 1521, construction was suddenly halted.

In 1533, the church was heavily damaged by a fire. In the following years, the people of Antwerp rebuilt it. With the founding of the Diocese of Antwerp in 1559, the church was elevated to the status of a cathedral.

Turbulent Times: Iconoclasm and Baroque Reconstruction

In the 16th century, the Reformation spread across Europe. Tensions between Catholics and Protestants led to dramatic events.

In 1566, the so-called “Beeldenstorm” (Iconoclasm) occurred. Protestants stormed churches, including the Cathedral of Our Lady, and destroyed numerous works of art and altars. It was a severe blow to the cathedral and a sad chapter in its history. From 1581, Antwerp was Protestant, which led to further destruction and the sale of priceless artworks.

After the destruction came the reconstruction. In the 17th century, the cathedral experienced a new golden age. Famous artists like Peter Paul Rubens, who lived and worked in Antwerp, created magnificent altarpieces for the cathedral. His monumental works, such as “The Descent from the Cross” or “The Assumption of the Virgin Mary,” are the cathedral’s greatest treasures today and attract visitors from all over the world.

Revolutions, Wars, and the Preservation of Heritage

The following centuries brought further challenges. The French Revolution at the end of the 18th century led to the confiscation of church property and the theft of several artworks. Fortunately, the cathedral escaped major destruction during World War II.

Today, the Cathedral of Our Lady is one of the highlights of Brabantine Gothic. Its tower has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1999.

What Makes Brabantine Gothic So Special?

The Cathedral of Our Lady is a masterpiece of Brabantine Gothic. It is characterized by its impressive, slender single tower, wide and light-filled interiors, and a visible, statically ingenious system of flying buttresses.

The tower is extremely slender and appears to spiral into the sky. It is built in several tiers that become increasingly light and delicate. The tower is crowned by an elegant spire.

The Only Seven-Aisled Church of Its Kind

The cathedral has a classic cruciform floor plan. This means it has a long central nave flanked by side aisles. The Cathedral of Our Lady is the only seven-aisled Gothic church with a transept and an ambulatory with radial chapels. It is a remarkable structure, 117 meters long and 40 meters high on the inside. In total, there are 125 pillars.

A Tour of the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp

When purchasing our tickets, we were asked if we would like a free guided tour. I was originally going to decline, but the tour was to be in German, and a kind older gentleman was waiting for participants. We were the only interested visitors that day, so we received a private tour of this beautiful church building. The free tours are conducted by volunteer parishioners (in German, for example, on Saturdays at 11 AM and 3 PM) and last about 45 minutes.

I was very happy with the explanations regarding the history of the church. For example, we learned that many art objects originated from other churches. Some of these churches no longer exist today, and their art treasures were able to find a worthy new home here.

Treasures of the Cathedral: Experiencing Peter Paul Rubens

The Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp houses four of the most significant works by the Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens. These paintings are artistically outstanding and of great historical importance. “The Descent from the Cross” and “The Assumption of the Virgin Mary” are still in their original locations for which they were created.

Rubens’ works in Antwerp Cathedral are characterized by their Baroque drama, strong emotions, dynamic compositions, and masterful command of light and shadow.

The Elevation of the Cross (1609-1610)

This monumental triptych (a three-part altarpiece) is one of Rubens’ most famous works. It consists of a center panel (460 cm × 340 cm) and two side panels (460 cm × 150 cm). It depicts the dramatic scene of the raising of the cross on Golgotha.

Rubens staged the event with theatrical effect, depicting figures with powerful muscles and passionate expressions. The widescreen format extends beyond the center panel onto the two wings, creating a continuous scene.

Originally painted for St. Walburga’s Church, it did not come to the cathedral until 1816.

The Descent from the Cross (1612)

This work is also a triptych and one of Rubens’ most famous paintings. It depicts the removal of Christ’s body from the cross.

The composition is dynamic and emotional, with the sliding body depicted against a dark background. Eight figures are seen tending to the body of Jesus. The left wing shows the Visitation (the pregnant Mary visiting her cousin Elizabeth), and the right wing shows the Presentation of Jesus in the Temple.

The painting was commissioned by the Guild of Arquebusiers.

The Assumption of the Virgin Mary (1626)

This large altarpiece (panel 490 cm × 325 cm) is located above the cathedral’s high altar and was used for a long time as a replacement for the altarpiece. It shows Mary being lifted into heaven by a choir of angels in a spiral motion, surrounded by light and glory. The apostles are gathered around her empty tomb.

The Resurrection of Christ (1612)

This painting (center panel 138 cm × 98 cm, side panels 136 cm × 40 cm) was created for the tomb of the Plantin Moretus family. It is intended to encourage remembrance of the deceased and show that God’s eternal love is unstoppable and overcomes death.

There is Even More to See!

In addition to the famous Rubens paintings, the Cathedral of Our Lady in Antwerp houses a number of other significant artworks.

There are paintings by artists such as Otto van Veen (Rubens’ teacher), Jacob de Backer, and Marten de Vos. In recent years, contemporary artworks have also been added. One example is the bronze sculpture “The Man Who Bears the Cross” (2015) by the Antwerp artist Jan Fabre. This modern sculpture shows a man balancing a large cross in his hand.

I was personally fascinated by the intricately carved choir stalls. The pulpit by Michiel van der Voort (1713) is another highlight for me. This impressive Baroque wooden pulpit is a masterpiece of sculpture. It originally came from the Abbey of St. Bernardus in Hemiksem and was later brought to the cathedral. The pulpit is richly decorated with allegorical figures representing the four Evangelists and the four continents known at that time.

The cathedral is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, so depictions of Mary in various styles and materials (marble, stone, wood) from different eras can be found throughout the building. I particularly noticed the “Beautiful Madonna” with child from the 14th century (around 1330-1340).

For example, there is a window depicting the marriage of Philip the Handsome (Philip I of Castile) to Joanna of Castile (known as “the Mad,” daughter of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon). It is one of the large windows in the transept and represents an important moment in Habsburg history. The wedding in 1496 in Lier was a key event that laid the foundation for the vast Habsburg Empire. This window is remarkable because it does not directly depict a biblical scene or a saint, but rather a historical event of great political significance that was of immense importance for the Flemish territories and thus for Antwerp.

The large dome painting in the crossing shows the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. This monumental work was created by Cornelis Schut (1597-1655), an important Flemish painter who was a student of Peter Paul Rubens. It is always amazing to me how artists could paint these works so high up. Here, I learned that the painting was created on the ground and then hoisted up into the dome.

Insider Tips for Your Visit: “De Plek” and Cathedral Beer

After the truly great tour ended and my countless questions were answered, we wandered through the cathedral for a while longer, taking in the images at our leisure and enjoying the pleasant atmosphere.

Finally, we were drawn to “De Plek.” Located in the former St. John’s Chapel behind the sacristy, it is now a café. Here, visitors can enjoy a coffee, for example. Something very special is the “Cathedral Beer” served here. There are two different beers: Kathedraal Blonde (Aurora) and Kathedraal Dark (Memento).

A wonderful visit to a beautiful cathedral that is worth it for more than just fans of Rubens!

Visitor Information

Address

Groenplaats 21,
2000 Antwerpen, Belgien