Imagine you are on a discovery tour through a European capital and suddenly find yourself in front of an impressive Japanese Tower, soaring almost 50 meters into the sky. Or before an opulent Chinese Pavilion, whose facades and kiosks seem to have been imported directly from Shanghai.
What sounds like a fantastic journey is a reality in Brussels – specifically in Laeken, a district in the northwest of the Belgian metropolis. Here, in the former Museums of the Far East, lies a piece of Asia, once brought to life by a king with visionary plans.
We actually came across this unusual place rather by chance. When we got off at the “wrong” stop on our hop-on hop-off bus tour, we walked to the next stop. The path led us directly to the Far East of Brussels.
Royal Visions: The Creation of a Unique Complex
The story of this extraordinary ensemble begins with King Leopold II. At the end of the 19th century, he was fascinated by Far Eastern culture. A visit to the 1900 Paris World’s Fair, particularly the “Panorama du Tour du Monde,” inspired him to create a similar presentation of oriental buildings in Belgium. The king even managed to acquire the entrance hall, which he had transported to Brussels and integrated into his vision.
The king commissioned the French architect Alexandre Marcel, who was already responsible for the panorama in Paris. Between 1900 and 1904, the magnificent Japanese Tower and the Chinese Pavilion were built. The inauguration took place in May 1905 during the annual royal garden party.
The king’s desire was to provide a worthy home for a royal collection of Chinese and Japanese artworks and to make them accessible to the public.
Future Uncertain
After their completion, the buildings were barely used. After King Leopold II’s death in 1909, the Royal House abandoned the plan to house a museum there. The buildings were donated to the Belgian state.
Various ministries were responsible for the structures over the following years, and at times the public could visit them. During the Second World War and from 1947-1989, the buildings were then closed. It was not until 1989, on the occasion of the Europalia Japan festival, that they were made accessible again.
Unfortunately, the Japanese Tower and the Chinese Pavilion have been closed since 2013 due to structural weaknesses. The buildings have been recognized as protected monuments since 2019.
What the Inside Supposedly Looks Like
Even though the Japanese Tower and the Chinese Pavilion cannot be visited, many stories are told about the interior of both buildings – and it is said to be truly impressive.
Inside the Japanese Tower, visitors would find richly decorated copper plates, stucco work, and elaborate stained-glass windows. There are six chambers connected by an ornate staircase.
Each floor has a unique design. For example, the first floor is dominated by a decoration that tells legends such as that of Urashima Taro. The coffered ceiling is also said to be uniquely beautiful. On the second floor, visitors were greeted with depictions of dragons and other mythical figures. The painted paper ceiling, which depicts a group of women, is now in the Brussels Art & History Museum. The other floors have also been individually designed, for instance, with red lacquered wooden floors.
In 2012, international experts confirmed the inestimable value of the tower, emphasizing that few places in Japan feature a comparable combination of decoration and architecture.
The View from the Outside
Since it is unfortunately no longer possible to enter the buildings, we had to content ourselves with the view from the outside. You can’t get particularly close here either, but it’s worth it! The buildings are truly unique and still beautiful.
What makes these buildings so special is the fascinating mix of European and Far Eastern construction techniques and decorations. The Japanese Tower, for example, incorporates reused elements made in Japan. Belgian craftsmen built the tower, and the original plan was to avoid using nails, in the traditional Japanese style. However, the architect insisted on their addition – an example of the fusion of two worlds.
The red-painted tower has five stories and is 50 meters high. The best view is from the opposite side of the street.
The Chinese Pavilion also holds a special feature. The wooden facade and the octagonal kiosk were made directly at the T’ou S’ Wé orphanage in Shanghai. This school, run by the Jesuit brother Alois Beck, played an important role in the artistic exchange between China and the West.
The Chinese Pavilion was originally intended to house a luxury restaurant. However, this was never realized, and so an exhibition of imported products moved in. Later, it displayed a collection of Chinese porcelain, furniture, and tapestries from the Royal Museums of Art and History.
Is It Worth Visiting the Japanese Tower?
Although the buildings are currently not accessible, a visit to the site is worthwhile just to admire the impressive architecture from the outside. Additionally, there is a small park around the buildings where you can take a stroll.
For me, this place is more of a “hidden gem” for tourists, an unknown spot in the city that should not be overlooked.
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