Trois-Rivières is the second oldest French-speaking city in North America. As early as 1634, Sieur de Laviolette founded this settlement at the confluence of the Saint-Maurice and the mighty St. Lawrence River. The name “Three Rivers” is a little geographical trick of nature: two islands in the river delta divide the Saint-Maurice in such a way that it looks as if three rivers are flowing into the sea.
Long before the French arrived, this place had been an important meeting point for the Algonquin and Abenaki for millennia. Later, Trois-Rivières became the paper industry capital of the world.
We had to learn an important lesson during our visit: if you plan your visit on a Monday, you’ll be left standing in front of closed doors! On this day, the city’s museums are closed for their day of rest. Since we were there on a sunny Monday, we were able to marvel at most of the sights from the outside during a city walk.
A Walk to the Sights in Trois-Rivières
Vieille Prison de Trois-Rivières
The Vieille Prison de Trois-Rivières was once the longest-operating prison in Canada. The first prisoners were incarcerated there starting in 1822, and it didn’t close its doors until 1986.
Since the building was barely changed after its closure, you can see how the prisoners lived there during guided tours today. We got goosebumps standing in front of the massive walls of the Vieille Prison, even without a tour. We stood in the sun in front of the gray stones and imagined how the inmates lived there under sometimes precarious conditions since 1822. The small barred windows surely let hardly any sun into the prison cells, and the prisoners certainly never set foot in the beautiful garden in front of the building.
Musée POP: Exploring Québécois Identity
Directly attached to the old prison is the modern building of the Musée POP. The museum is dedicated to the preservation and presentation of Québec’s popular culture. It’s a pity we couldn’t see the exhibitions on the identity of the Québécois. I would have been interested in learning more about the culture.
Boréalis: The Industrial Heritage of the Paper Industry
The Boréalis museum is housed in the former water filtration plant of the Canadian International Paper (CIP) company. Here, everything revolves around the theme: Trois-Rivières as the paper manufacturing capital of the world.
The permanent exhibition “Transformations” illustrates the entire paper manufacturing cycle: from logging in the forest to log driving on the Saint-Maurice River, all the way to technical processing in the factory. Visitors can make their own paper in workshops.
An observation deck offers a panoramic view of the Saint-Maurice River. However, you can also enjoy this view just a few steps next to the building.
Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap
Just outside the city center is the Sanctuaire Notre-Dame-du-Cap. It is Canada’s national Marian shrine and one of the most important pilgrimage sites in North America. The grounds include a historic chapel from 1720, considered the oldest church in Canada where daily mass is celebrated, as well as the monumental modern basilica from 1964.
We took a look at the church and were thrilled by the architecture. If you want to learn more about it, you should read the article “A Place of Miracles: Our Visit to the Famous Church in Trois-Rivières“.
Cathédrale de l’Assomption
The Cathédrale de l’Assomption was built between 1854 and 1858. Its pointed spire almost slightly resembles London architecture.
Inside is one of the most valuable art treasures of the region: 22 monumental stained glass windows by the artist Guido Nincheri. Each window is over 8 meters high and is characterized by an extraordinary play of colors and attention to detail.
Récollets-de-Trois-Rivières
Récollets-de-Trois-Rivières is a religious complex. The ensemble includes St. James Church and its presbytery. The presbytery, built in 1742, is connected to the church by a covered walkway. The stone church, erected in 1754, has a rectangular floor plan. The roof is topped by a bell tower.
Musée des Ursulines
The Musée des Ursulines is one of the most important cultural and historical sites in Trois-Rivières. It is located in the historic district (Vieux-Trois-Rivières) and tells the story of a community of nuns who shaped the social fabric of the city for over 300 years.
The Ursulines arrived in Trois-Rivières in 1697. Their main task was the education of girls and the care of the sick (they founded the first hospital in the city).
The museum offers an insight into the spiritual and secular life of the nuns:
- The Chapel: It is the centerpiece of the complex. The magnificent interior decor and the altarpieces are masterpieces of sacred art in Québec.
- Permanent Exhibition: This showcases artifacts from the everyday lives of the sisters, including embroidery, medical instruments from the infirmary era, and school supplies.
Amphithéâtre Cogeco
Inaugurated in 2015, the Amphithéâtre Cogeco was built on the site of a former paper mill. The most striking feature is the red roof, which rests on just eight slender columns and seems to float above the stage. With a total capacity of 9,000 spectators, the venue offers one of the best acoustic experiences in North America.
Musée Bon Père Frédéric (Musée Frédéric-Janssoone)
This museum is dedicated to the Franciscan Father Frédéric Janssoone (1838–1916), one of the most popular religious figures in the history of Québec. He was a French missionary who spent most of his life in Canada. The father was co-founder of the famous sanctuary Notre-Dame-du-Cap and was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1988.
The museum is located in the basement of St. Anthony’s Chapel (Chapelle Saint-Antoine). On display are personal items illustrating his life and his travels to the Holy Land. In the chapel above the museum, the embalmed body of the father rests in a glass sarcophagus.
Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Allégresses
The ruin right next door is a sad sight and was, until recently, one of the architectural landmarks of the neighborhood. On October 3, 2024, a fire broke out in the historic church. The building was almost completely destroyed.
Musée Pierre-Boucher
The Musée Pierre-Boucher is an insider tip in Trois-Rivières. It is the oldest private museum in Québec. The museum is located in an imposing building: the Séminaire Saint-Joseph. This gives the visit a very unique atmosphere, as you are walking through a historic educational institution.
The museum follows an “Art + History” approach:
- Maurice Duplessis: There is a memorial hall for the former Premier of Québec, who was a controversial but influential politician in the region.
- Sacred Art: Since the museum is housed in the seminary, there are impressive religious artworks, goldsmithing, and textiles.
- The Chapel: A tour often includes the beautiful chapel of the seminary, which is architecturally very much worth seeing.
Military Museum
The Military Museum in Trois-Rivières is officially known as the Musée militaire de Trois-Rivières (or also the Musée du 12e Régiment blindé du Canada). The museum is located inside the Manège militaire (drill hall/armory), a brick building dating back to 1905. The architecture alone, with its turrets and massive structure, is worth a look.
The museum is dedicated to the history of the 12th Armored Regiment of Canada (12e Régiment blindé du Canada), which was founded in Trois-Rivières in 1871.
Croisières AML (Ticket Office & Pier)
The shipping company Croisières AML is the main provider for boat tours in Trois-Rivières. The ticket office (Billetterie) is located right on the waterfront. The most popular trip is the Guided Sightseeing Cruise (usually on the ship M/S Jacques-Cartier). It takes about 90 minutes.
Spending the Night with a Bank Vault Feeling
In Trois-Rivières, we stayed at the Hôtel Oui Go! – and what a discovery that was! The charming boutique hotel is centrally located and, for us, a truly exceptional place. The building formerly housed a bank, and the absolute highlight: our room was located in the former vault. A unique experience you don’t get every day.
Our Culinary Highlights
Le temps d’une pinte
This cozy brewery won us over immediately. They not only have really good food there, but above all, first-class craft beer. In the summer, you can sit wonderfully in the small beer garden.
Our tip: Definitely try your way through the home-brewed beers. The IPA and the sour beer in particular were exactly to our taste!
Angéline – Italian Delight
We spent a fantastic evening here. The dining room is so cozily decorated that this comforting “living room atmosphere” immediately arises. Particularly charming: even though the staff preferred to speak French, they touchingly went out of their way to speak English with us to ensure we had a perfect evening. The pizza and the huge salad were simply outstanding.
Le Caféier | atelier torréfaction
The next morning, the scent of fresh beans lured us into Le Caféier. We had incredible luck: when we walked in, the roasting drum was running. That intense smell of coffee in the air was simply wonderful! The coffee itself was every bit as good as the smell – the perfect start to the day.
Cafe Morgane Notre Dame
Directly opposite the hotel is Cafe Morgane. When it got a bit rainy one morning, we took refuge in this rather spacious café. It’s ideal for a quick, strong pick-me-up and a small breakfast snack before continuing to explore the city.
Ice Cream Dream in Trois-Rivières
There are moments of indulgence that you won’t soon forget. Diagonally across from our hotel, we rewarded ourselves at Choco-Favoris after a long walk. The ice cream parlor is a real paradise for those with a sweet tooth: Patrick dared to try an ice cream croissant, while I enjoyed a huge cup with liquid caramel. Sinfully good and just plain delicious – an absolute must when you’re in the city!
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