Plzen and beer!!! The world-famous Pilsner Urquell has been brewed in Plzen since 1842. We went in search of traces on a guided tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery.
During our visit to the historical underground of Plzen, we had already learned something about the city and its beer. It’s hard to believe, but there was a time when Plzen had the worst beer in the region.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the townspeople with brewing rights decided that this had to change. They wanted to build a new brewery and brew a modern bottom-fermented beer there. But the people of Plzen didn’t really know what they were doing, so in 1842 the Bavarian Josef Groll was appointed the first brewmaster of the Civic Brewery.
Groll was quite successful. Shortly after his arrival in Plzen, the first golden Plzner beer was available. He brewed Pilsner Urquell, which has been registered as a trademark since 1859. The beer was a revolution among beers in its time. Refreshing, spicy-tart and with a beautiful color, it enchanted the people in Plzen.
Only a little later, the first barrels of beer reached Prague. In the pub U Pinkasů (still exists today) it was served and enthusiastically received.
In 1873, the first barrels were shipped to the United States. A really risky venture. The beer could not be transported in refrigerated tanks, as is customary today. These did not yet exist. And so the barrels went on the road with the hope of not arriving with spoiled beer. It was a success.
The production volume grew and grew. In 1913/14, they brewed 1 million hectoliters a year for the first time.
In 1996, the Pilsner Urquell Brewery already exported the beer to 50 countries, and here, too, demand increases year after year. And of course it is not only sold in barrels, but also in the typical green bottles.
After several changes of ownership, Pilsner Urquell has belonged to the Japanese brewery group Asahi Beer since December 2016.
Pilsner Urquell brewery tour
We reach the grounds of the Pilsner Urquell brewery via a bridge-like footbridge that runs over a warehouse. Behind it is a large open area that is freely accessible. This is also where the brewery’s visitor centre is located, where the guided tours start.
We didn’t have to wait long for our guided tour in German to begin. There are several guided tours in different languages offered here every day. These are often well booked, so it is advisable to reserve tickets online in advance.
While you wait, you can look around the large visitor centre and, of course, watch a promotional film of the brewery. I found the motorbike and the replica of a house much more exciting.
The tour begins on the upper floor of the visitor centre. There is a lot of historical information to be heard and then you go together to the brewery’s outdoor area. At a large factory gate, where there is also an old horse-drawn carriage and a railway wagon, you learn about the water tower on the grounds.
Then it’s off to the old brewhouse. The largest passenger lift in the Czech Republic takes you to a panorama cinema. A film about the production of Pilsner Urquell beer is shown.
Brewing process
When brewing the first Pilsner Urquell in 1842, Josef Groll uses a method that has become established in the world of beer brewing to this day.
The beer took and still takes 35 days to complete the entire production and maturation process.
During the tour of the brewery, this process is made clear. At the beginning, you learn about the ingredients and the production process.
In Plzen, for example, they work with a malt obtained from a sweetish barley from Moravia. This is mixed with water in copper tanks to make beer wort. Part of the beer wort is boiled over an open fire in the so-called three-mash process. This process is one reason for the golden colour and typical taste.
Typical of Pilsner Urquell is the use of Saarz hops. Groll already used only this type of hop, which comes from the small town of Žatec. The fields are not far from Plzen, so they brew with regional products. The hops are known for not tasting so bitter and having only a low acid content. Groll chose exactly these hops because he was convinced of the wort. He thus created a beer that tastes unmistakable: not too bitter with a light caramel note, tangy and refreshing.
During the brewing process, hops are also added three times. The brewing process of Pilsner beer takes one day. The beer is then fermented for 10 days. After maturing for 24 days, it can be bottled and sold.
Path through the brewing process
To ensure that this does not remain mere theory, everything becomes a little more practical in the next rooms. The ingredients are presented and the brewing process is explained. Brewhouses from three different centuries are on display. They are particularly proud to be able to show the brew pan from 1842 in which the first batch of beer was brewed. Employees of the brewery made it possible for it to survive two world wars unscathed.
Then we went deep under the brewery buildings. We went through the historic brewery cellars. Here you learn about storage , visit an ice cellar and finally come to a room with huge wooden barrels.
Everyone receives a glass from a pallet and then it’s time to be quick. A staff member opens a tap and the beer starts flowing. Pass the glass, go around the employee, take the full glass and don’t let the chain break. Not a drop should hit the floor and the tap should stay open as much as possible.
With our freshly tapped unfiltered and non-pasteurised Pilsner Urquell, we then stood at a table. Not much time left, we could already hear the next group. What a delicious taste ran down our throats. After so much “beer history”, just the right end to the tour.
On the way back through some cellar corridors, we learned a lot about barrels, barrel production and barrel cleaning.
Through the souvenir shop we went back to the brewery grounds. You can also visit the souvenir shop without a guided tour. In addition to beer, there are many other products with the brewery’s logo for sale.
We left the grounds through the Jubilee Gate. This beautiful gate decorates the main entrance to the brewery. The brewery erected it in honour of Josef Groll, exactly 50 years after the creation of Pilsner Urquell.
We enjoyed the tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery. It was very informative, our guide was easy to understand and she also tried to answer questions.
Only 2 days later, we were drawn once again to the brewery grounds. There was a market with arts and crafts. Young artists played live on a stage and of course there was also freshly tapped beer.
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