On our road trip through the Czech Republic, Klatovy (known as Klattau in German) was originally planned as just a quick pit stop. We stayed for one night and were immediately enchanted. This city, located only about 40 kilometers south of Pilsen, is definitely worth a visit.
Where History Comes Alive: Klatovy’s Past
For centuries, the city has borne the proud nickname “Gateway to the Bohemian Forest,” and we quickly realized that this is far more than just a geographic description. Klatovy sat on one of the most important trade routes connecting the Kingdom of Bohemia with Bavaria. You can almost picture the bustling trade that once thrived here.
The city’s official history begins around the year 1260, when the Bohemian King Přemysl Otakar II designated it a Royal City. This privileged status laid the foundation for a rapid ascent; trade and craftsmanship flourished. However, it was the cultivation of saffron in the 16th century that made Klatovy one of the seven richest cities in Bohemia. Saffron was highly valued and sought after as both a spice and a dye.
But wealth was hard-won. In the 15th century, the city was a Hussite bastion and stood at the center of religious conflicts. The Thirty Years’ War and several devastating city fires (1689, 1758, and 1810) destroyed large parts of the medieval architecture. Yet, that is exactly what gives the city its modern charm: it is not a flawless medieval museum. Renaissance buildings rose from the Gothic foundations of the founding era, which were then reshaped by the magnificent Baroque style of the Counter-Reformation after the fires.
The Jesuits played a decisive role in the city’s history. Arriving in 1636, they shaped Klatovy for the next 150 years. They transformed the city into a center of Recatholization and a significant educational hub for the region. They erected a complex consisting of a church, a college, and catacombs that addressed not only the spiritual but also the intellectual and even existential needs of the population.
The Highlights of Klatovy: A Walk Through the Old Town
The historic center is wonderful to explore on foot. Almost all the main sights are clustered around the impressive main square.
Náměstí Míru (Peace Square)
The heart of Klatovy beats at Náměstí Míru. This cobblestone square is the geographic center and one of the most important spots in the city. It is hard to believe that in the Middle Ages, grass simply grew here and the citizens’ cattle grazed on it. It wasn’t until the reign of Emperor Charles IV that the square received its first paving.
The current paving was decided upon and funded by the citizens themselves shortly after the Munich Agreement and the establishment of the Nazi Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia. Citizens and business owners symbolically purchased the granite blocks for the new pavement. If you walk across the square attentively, you will discover memories of the triumphs and tragedies of the city’s history set in stone:
- The Pietní Kříž (Memorial Cross): A dark cross made of stones marks the spot where the first victim of the 1848 revolutionary riots fell.
- The Spire Mosaic: In front of the Town Hall, a stone circle shows the outline of the Black Tower’s spire. It was torn off by a storm in 1870 and crashed down exactly at this spot.
- The Carpenter’s Cross: A small white cross commemorates the tragic death of master carpenter Karel Mayer, who fell from the tower of the Jesuit Church while working in 1933.
The Baroque Pharmacy “At the White Unicorn”
Located directly on Peace Square is one of Klatovy’s most extraordinary monuments: the Baroque pharmacy “At the White Unicorn” (U Bílého jednorožce).
Stepping over the threshold is like traveling back in time. The salesroom features intricately carved shelves and porcelain vessels where tinctures, ointments, and powders were once mixed according to secret recipes. The special highlight is the object that gave the pharmacy its name: a supposed “unicorn horn.” Today, we know it is actually an impressive, spiraled tusk of a male narwhal.
The Black Tower (Černá věž) – High Above the Rooftops
The Black Tower is the city’s landmark and stands right on Peace Square. This 81-meter-high watchtower was built between 1547 and 1557 next to the newly constructed Renaissance Town Hall. It consists of massive, unplastered blocks of quarry stone, which gained their dark coloring through natural weathering over the centuries. I particularly noticed a beautiful 24-hour clock on the tower.
Today, you can climb it—and it’s a bit of an adventure. The narrow staircase consists partly of wooden steps, and we had to duck our heads more than once on the way up. You pass several plaques with riddles along the way; the solutions can be found at the top in the tower keeper’s room.
After 226 steps, we reached the top level. Only here can you buy tickets and then step onto the narrow gallery of the Black Tower. What can I say? The climb was worth it. The view over the city’s rooftops and the dense forests of the Bohemian Forest is indescribable.
On the way down, we also took a closer look at the massive bells—I was just glad they didn’t start ringing at that exact moment.
A historic detail for residents and guests staying overnight: Every night, a tower watchman patrolled the parapet and was required to blow a signal every hour to show he was vigilant and the city was safe.
The Town Hall (Radnice)
Adjacent to the Black Tower, the Town Hall forms the secular pole of power on the square. The core of the building dates back to the Renaissance era of the 1550s, but it was redesigned several times over the centuries and now presents itself in a magnificent Neo-Renaissance style.
The Jesuit Church of the Immaculate Conception
The centerpiece of Jesuit activity is the monumental Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary and St. Ignatius, which dominates the eastern side of Náměstí Míru.
The church can only be visited with a guided tour, but with a bit of luck, the door is open and you can peek inside through a gate. Its floor plan and design are a direct replica of the Jesuit Order’s mother church, Il Gesù in Rome. The magnificent twin-tower facade with its three richly decorated portals is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture. The interior felt very pompous to me—a true sign of the church’s position of power.
The Catacombs: A Spooky and Fascinating Descent
Hidden beneath the magnificent nave is one of Klatovy’s most fascinating and eerie places: the Catacombs. Our tip: Don’t miss it! We were absolutely thrilled.
Between 1676 and 1783, these extensive crypts served as the final resting place for members of the Jesuit Order, as well as for nobles and wealthy citizens close to the order. The unique feature of these catacombs is the phenomenon of natural mummification. The Jesuits developed a sophisticated ventilation system of shafts and channels that ensured a constant draft of air. The bodies were placed in open oak coffins on a bed of hops, which absorbed additional moisture. Through this process, the bodies dried out instead of decaying, remaining preserved for centuries.
Unfortunately, the sensitive ventilation system was destroyed during improper renovation work in the 1930s. As a result, most of the approximately 200 mummies at the time decayed.
Today, the remaining 30 mummies are part of a modern exhibition. You pass through an airlock and stand directly in front of the open coffins. It is a spooky feeling when you realize these were once living people whose bodies now weigh only eight to ten kilograms. An attached museum area vividly explains the activities of the Jesuits in Klatovy.
Further Discoveries in Klatovy
The Archdeanery Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary
In a side alley near the market square stands the Archdeanery Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, the oldest surviving sacred building in the city. The church gained its greatest significance through an event in 1685, when a portrait of Mary owned by a local family allegedly sweated blood. After the Catholic Church recognized this event as a miracle, the image, now known as the “Klatovy Madonna,” was transferred to the church. From then on, Klatovy developed into an important pilgrimage site, attracting pilgrims from far and wide and solidifying the city’s reputation as a center of the Catholic faith in Western Bohemia.
The White Tower (Bílá věž)
In the east of the old town stands the White Tower. It represents the counterpart to the Black Tower. The White Tower was erected in 1581, only a few decades after the Black Tower. It served as a free-standing bell tower (campanile) and as an entrance gate to the cemetery. After the great city fire of 1758, the tower was raised and received its current Baroque form.
The City Fortifications (Městské opevnění)
In several places in the city, impressive remains of the medieval city fortifications from the 14th and 15th centuries can still be seen today. A walk along these old walls is like a journey back in time.
All Top Sights at a Glance
| Sight | Construction Period | Short Description & Significance |
| Black Tower (Černá věž) | 1547–1557 | 81-meter-high municipal watchtower, symbol of the city’s wealth and defensibility in the 16th century. |
| Jesuit Church & Catacombs | from 1656 | Monumental church building based on Roman models; underground crypts with naturally mummified bodies. |
| Baroque Pharmacy “At the White Unicorn” | 17th/18th century | Almost completely preserved historical pharmacy with original furnishings; today a museum of international standing. |
| White Tower (Bílá věž) | 1581 | Ecclesiastical bell tower, which was raised after a fire and later fitted with a portal from the neighboring church. |
| Town Hall (Radnice) | from 1557 | Representative seat of the city administration, which has been redesigned several times over the centuries and combines various styles. |
| Archdeanery Church of the Nativity of Mary | from 13th century | Oldest church building in the city and an important place of pilgrimage due to the miraculous image of the “Klatovy Madonna.” |
Our Personal Tips for Klatovy
Culinary Tips
Bohemian cuisine is hearty and delicious. Keep an eye out for regional specialties in the local restaurants. A must-try is the Kulajda, a thick mushroom and potato soup with dill and a poached egg, which is typical of the Bohemian Forest. Otherwise, classics like Svíčková (sirloin in cream sauce with cranberries) or a simple but perfect Smažený sýr (breaded, fried cheese) with tartar sauce are recommended.
Staying in Klatovy – Our Tip: Pension Kotva
We stayed one night in the small Pension Kotva. The room directly under the roof was large, though simply furnished, and sparkling clean. We felt at home immediately.
The highlight for us: There is a rustic pub in the house that opens at 4 PM. We sat here in the evening among many locals and enjoyed the excellent local beer – the ideal end to a day full of discoveries.
Breakfast is offered in the morning in the pub’s guest room. It was hearty, varied, and the coffee tasted great!
A note for drivers: There are only resident parking spaces in the street near the pension. You can park your car for a fee on Náměstí Míru, the Peace Square. In the evening hours, parking is free.
Excursion Tips nearby
Švihov Water Castle (Schwihau):
Only about 10 km to the north lies this perfectly preserved late-Gothic water castle, which often serves as a film set (e.g., for “Three Hazelnuts for Cinderella”).
Many thanks to Czech Tourism for organizing the accommodation and providing tips for our stay.
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