Numb fingers, a gray sky, and really just the desire for a warm room. My excursion to Weltenburg Abbey started with dampened expectations and the desire for a hot coffee.
Anyone standing in the courtyard in this weather has no idea what is hidden behind the thick walls. Because while cloudy Bavarian gray prevailed outside, an intoxication of Italian gold waited inside. The abbey is a master of deception.
The first impression: Gray on gray on the banks of the Danube
To be honest: I was cold. The wind whistled through the abbey’s courtyard, and the sky over the Danube hung gray and foggy above us. My first thought in the courtyard? Pretty, yes, this typical Baroque yellow, but I really just longed for a warm room.
The Asam Church: A theatrical play made of stone and light
I pushed open the heavy wooden door of the church and was almost confused at first. No immediate gold rush, no blaze of color. The vestibule welcomed me dimly and darkly, almost a little oppressive. Was that it? But then I took a few steps further, stepped through the inner arch – and only then did it happen.
The wow effect
The transition from the dark entrance into the nave caught me off guard. It was as if someone had turned on the sun at that exact moment. Just a moment ago in the shadows, I was suddenly standing in a room of colors and light.
The Asam brothers obviously knew exactly what they were doing: They used the darkness at the entrance to make the gold inside shine all the brighter. A trick that still worked perfectly today.
Lighting direction at its finest: The Dragon Slayerr
My gaze was immediately drawn to the high altar. Beautiful!
St. George on horseback appears so vivid, so full of movement, that you instinctively want to take a step aside to let him pass. He is not painted on a canvas or wood, but is a life-size figure. The saint wears armor that shimmers mysteriously. The craziest thing, however, is the light. He shone almost supernaturally in a silver light. What a brilliant trick by the Asam brothers. A hidden window behind the altar directs the daylight as if the brightness came straight from heaven.
The view upwards: A perfect deception
Next, I did what I always do in churches: I looked up. And then the next “mind twist” happened.
Above me arched a huge, high dome that seemed to lead directly into the sky. Clouds, light, figures – it seemed infinitely far away. But looking at the church from the outside, it didn’t have a dome. The Asam brothers created one of the most perfect optical illusions here as well. The ceiling is actually relatively flat, but Cosmas Damian Asam painted it in such a way that it looks like a massive vault.
If you look at the painting more closely, you will discover countless figures. At the very top sits the Holy Trinity, surrounded by Mary, who is being crowned. The apostles and saints literally hang over the railings of the painted balconies and look down on us.
Fun Fact: If you look closely, you will discover a man leaning over the painted balcony railing and looking directly at you. This is said to be Cosmas Damian Asam himself, who immortalized himself here.
The oldest monastery brewery in the world
Beer has been brewed at Weltenburg Abbey since 1050. In the summer, you can sit here under the trees in the beer garden and enjoy a cold beer. In winter, this is unfortunately not possible and the taproom was also still closed in the morning. However, we were able to take a few bottles of beer with us from the monastery shop.
The classic: Barock Dunkel
The beer everyone is here for. It is almost black, but tastes surprisingly smooth and not bitter at all.
The Asam Bock
A dark double bock with almost 7% alcohol.
Anno 1050
A Märzen beer, named after the year the brewery was founded. Anyone who prefers it golden yellow and spicy rather than dark should choose this beer.
Natural wonder on the doorstep: The Danube Gorge
We still had some time before our bus was supposed to leave for the next sightseeing spot, so we walked a few meters along the Danube. We were hoping to catch a glimpse of the Danube Gorge despite the foggy weather.
You stand here at the deepest and narrowest part of the Bavarian Danube. Normally, the river is hundreds of meters wide, but here it has to squeeze through a bottleneck of just 110 meters. The water here is up to 20 meters deep and full of whirlpools.
What exactly is the Danube Gorge?
150 million years ago, all of this here was a tropical sea. The white rocks we see today are the deposits from this ocean. Originally, the Danube didn’t even flow this way. It took a route further north (through today’s Altmühl Valley). Small tributaries began to gnaw at and hollow out the limestone here. At some point, around 80,000 years ago, the Danube decided to leave its old bed and take this new, shorter path. It broke through the rock barrier.
My tip: You can see the rocks well from the shore, but the real experience is a trip on the excursion boat from Kelheim. Then you glide right between the towering rock walls.
Is Weltenburg Abbey worth it?
Absolutely. Even on a gray, cold winter day, this place has its very own magic. Outside, the rough, wild nature of the Danube Gorge, inside the warm, golden splendor of the Baroque, and in addition, one of the best beers in the world.
Book a tour to the abbey
Visitor informations
Address
Asamstraße 32,
93309 Kelheim
How to get there
As the monastery is situated directly within the “Weltenburger Enge” nature reserve, direct access is restricted.
By boat:
Departs from Kelheim (Danube jetty). The journey through the Danube Gorge takes approx. 40 minutes upstream.
By car:
From Regensburg:
Take the A93 (Regensburg – Holledau) – exit 49 Abensberg – continue towards Kelheim/Weltenburg. From here, follow the brown tourist signs for “Kloster Weltenburg”.
From Munich:
Take the A9 (Munich – Nuremberg) to the Holledau junction, then the A93 towards Regensburg – exit 50 Siegenburg or 49 Abensberg – from there, take the B299/B16 towards Weltenburg/Kelheim.
From Ingolstadt:
Take the B16 (towards Regensburg) – until the exit for Weltenburg/Abensberg. From there, the road leads through the village of Weltenburg directly to the visitor car park.
On foot:
From Kelheim via the “Weltenburger Höhenweg” (approx. 5 km, partly steep, sturdy footwear required) or along the Danube (flatter, but longer).
Parking
There is a large car park in Weltenburg (subject to a charge). From there, it is about a 10–15-minute walk to the monastery (flat, suitable for pushchairs).
Opening hours
St. George’s Monastery Church:
Daily: 9 am – 7 pm (in winter until dusk).
Please note: Visits are not permitted during church services.
Monastery Tavern (beer garden & restaurant):
High season (approx. mid-March to November)
Daily: 10 am – 7 pm
Visitor Centre (Felsenkeller):
Daily 10 am – 5 pm (seasonal)
Admission prices
Monastery courtyard & church:
Admission is free.
Visitor centre:
A small contribution towards costs.
Brewery tour:
By advance booking/ticket only (prices vary depending on the package, including tasting).
Accessibility
The courtyard is covered in gravel, but is generally firm enough for wheelchairs.
There are ramps and level access points to the monastery tavern and the church.
Disabled-friendly toilets are available.
FAQ
Is swimming in the Danube allowed near Weltenburg Abbey?
Officially, swimming in the Danube is not prohibited here, but caution is advised! The current in the Danube Gorge is treacherous and strong. Many visitors cool their feet on the pebble beach or splash about in the shallow water near the bank. Swimming in the middle of the river is extremely dangerous and is strongly discouraged.
What’s the quickest way to get to the other side of the river?
If you don’t want to take the large ferry, you can use the traditional Zillen (small wooden boats). They set off directly from the monastery and take hikers or walkers to the other bank for a small fee.
Can I bring my dog?
Courtyard & beer garden: Yes, dogs are welcome on a lead.
Church: No, dogs must remain outside.
Which is the best beer to try?
The flagship beer is the “Weltenburger Barock Dunkel”. It has won the World Beer Cup several times. For those who prefer non-alcoholic drinks: the brewery also produces excellent lemonades and non-alcoholic wheat beer.
When is the best time for photos?
In the late afternoon, when the sun shines on the rock faces of the Danube Gorge. If you want to photograph the church when it’s empty, you should come first thing in the morning at 9:00 am or just before closing time.
Is there a dress code?
Not for the beer garden (casual/hiking clothes are fine). As is the case everywhere, the following applies to the church: out of respect, shoulders should be covered and swimwear should not be worn.
The visit to the monastery took place as part of a press trip organised by nicko cruises.
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