Nuremberg and beer – they belong together like the castle and its old town. Anyone visiting the Franconian metropolis cannot ignore its centuries-old brewing tradition. But with the abundance of taverns, the question arises: Where is it most authentic? We looked around and visited two of the most distinctive breweries in Nuremberg.
Mautkeller: Franconian Hospitality in a Historic Sandstone Vault
Directly beneath the impressive Mauthalle building in the heart of the old town lies the Mautkeller. Here, beer from the Tucher Brewery is served, which we were very much looking forward to after a long stroll through the city.
The atmosphere changes as soon as you descend the stairs. The Mautkeller is a classic vault, characterized by massive sandstone columns and heavy wooden furniture. Despite its size, it is cozy, a bit rustic, and above all, authentic. In the Mautkeller, tourists meet locals at the regulars’ tables (Stammtische). It is loud, lively, and welcoming – simply typical Franconian tavern culture.
We had reserved a table in advance and the two of us were seated at a large table for 8 people. I found that a bit inappropriate, especially since there were certainly smaller empty tables available. Fortunately, the free seats remained empty, so we were able to thoroughly enjoy our time together.
Food: Hearty, Franconian
We were hungry and were not disappointed when looking at the menu. Here you will find typical Franconian tavern cuisine, ranging from Nuremberg bratwursts to Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder).
We opted for a Sauerbraten with dumplings and a pork knuckle. Price-wise, I felt both dishes were quite expensive; the Sauerbraten cost almost €30. Now we had to wait and see if the quality would match the price.
Admittedly, I was already really skeptical, because no sooner had we ordered than the food was already on the table – and even before the beer! For us, this is always a sign that a lot must have been “pre-produced” and the finished plates were simply taken out of the warmer.
Did we like it? The meat of both dishes was okay, but nothing special. I felt it lacked a bit of seasoning, that special something in the food. Something that would have tempted me to definitely come back again. Unfortunately, the nice waitstaff couldn’t change that either.
The Beer: Liquid Gold
The Mautkeller serves traditional Tucher beer. Mostly, the classics from the Tucher Brewery flow from the taps here.
We decided on two beers brewed directly in-house: Urbräu Hell Unfiltriert (Unfiltered Light) and Rotes Lagerbier Unfiltriert (Unfiltered Red Lager). Two really drinkable, good beers at a fair price. So, I would gladly come back just for the beer.
Address:
Hallplatz 2, 90402 Nürnberg
Hausbrauerei Altstadthof: Home of the Red Beer
Directly at the foot of the Imperial Castle is the Hausbrauerei Altstadthof. As we step through the entrance, we find ourselves in a rather large courtyard. Here, you look out onto the brewery, a distillery, tasting rooms, a restaurant, and a small, cozy “tavern”. This is also the starting point for tours through the city’s historical rock cellars, brewery tours, and whiskey tastings. What a lively place full of tourists.
I had reserved a table online, and when we arrived at the restaurant, they sent us to the brewing room (Braustube), which I immediately liked. It was cramped, loud, bustling, and simply cozy here. Our reserved table was “cleared,” and despite a constant stream of new guests, this table remained reserved just for us for the next 2 hours.
Food & Drink: Hearty Cuisine Meets Liquid Gold
At the Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, organic quality is highly valued. The Nuremberg Red Beer is their absolute flagship. It is brewed according to medieval tradition (historically documented in the city since 1303!). It is malty, slightly roasted, and has a beautiful deep red color.
Of course, we absolutely had to try it. I liked the taste, and it just fits the atmosphere perfectly.
The cuisine is Franconian, and the dishes in the brewing room are supposed to be identical to those in the restaurant. We opted for a classic Brotzeit (snack board) with spent-grain bread, which went perfectly with the beer!
Address:
Bergstraße 19, 90403 Nürnberg
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