From the Stadtschloss to the Humboldt Forum

The area on which the Humboldt Forum stands today is a place that reflects German history like no other. It was once home to the magnificent Hohenzollern Stadtschloss, the socialist Palace of the Republic and today the Humboldt Forum.

The Berlin Stadtschloss: center of power in a baroque building

The history of the site begins in the early 15th century with the construction of a castle by Elector Frederick II. Over the centuries, various rulers repeatedly extended and rebuilt the castle until it was transformed into a magnificent Baroque Stadtschloss in the early 18th century. This served as the main residence of the Prussian kings and later German emperors.

The palace was not only a place of power, but also a cultural center. It housed art collections and an extensive library. Glamorous celebrations and state ceremonies took place here. The magnificent façades and sumptuous interiors bore witness to the Hohenzollerns’ claim to prestige.

The Second World War brought an end to the historic palace. It was badly damaged during air raids in February 1945 and largely burnt out. Although reconstruction would have been technically possible, the GDR leadership decided against restoration for ideological reasons.

The Palace of the Republic – a GDR showpiece

After the palace ruins were demolished in 1950, there was a huge void in this part of Berlin. Initially, the government used the area as a parade ground. In the 1970s, the GDR leadership decided to construct a new representative building. The result was the Palace of the Republic.

The building was opened in 1976 and was a multifunctional building that also served as the seat of the People’s Chamber of the GDR. However, cultural and leisure activities for the population also took place here. There were concert halls, restaurants, a bowling alley and a theater.

The bronze-colored mirrored façade and the modern interior stood in stark contrast to the historical surroundings at the time. For many GDR citizens, “Erich’s Lamp Shop”, as it was popularly known because of its numerous lamps, was an important place for culture and encounters.

The way to the Humboldt Forum

After German reunification in 1990, the Palace of the Republic was closed due to asbestos contamination. This was followed by years of debate about its future: renovation, demolition or partial demolition?

The founding of the “Förderverein Berliner Schloss e.V.” (1992) was certainly a driving force behind the decision. The aim of the association was to collect donations for the reconstruction of the Berlin Stadtschloss and to promote the idea of rebuilding it.

An international commission of experts was appointed by the Bundestag and the Senate of Berlin. Their task was to draw up recommendations for the design of Berlin’s historic center, including the palace grounds. The commission came out in favor of rebuilding the baroque palace facades and suggested a mixed use. The German Bundestag then laid down the precise details in a resolution in 2002.

The complete demolition of the Palace of the Republic took place between 2006 and 2008, leaving space for a new building.

Following an international architectural competition, the design by Italian architect Franco Stella was selected. It provided for the reconstruction of three of the historic façades and the Schlüterhof. The eastern façade and the interior were to be given a modern design.

The estimated costs were around 600 million euros. Funding was provided by the federal government, with a share from the state of Berlin and donations. The establishment of the Humboldt Forum Foundation in the Berlin Palace (2009) as the client and later operator of the Humboldt Forum was another important step.

The foundation stone was laid in 2013 and the construction of the Humboldt Forum was a technically and logistically challenging large-scale project. The reconstruction of the baroque façades required craftsmanship and historical accuracy. At the same time, state-of-the-art museum and event technology had to be integrated. And as is often the case with such projects, there were also cost increases and delays.

The reconstructed façade was finally completed in 2019/2020. From the end of 2020, the Humboldt Forum was opened in stages. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the planned physical opening could not take place. Instead, there was a digital opening with first glimpses. From summer 2021, the first areas and exhibitions were gradually opened to the public. This initially included the foyers, the Schlüterhof and the first special exhibitions. The first permanent exhibitions of the Ethnological Museum and the Museum of Asian Art have been available to visitors in the west wing since September 2021. The complete opening of all collection areas, especially in the east wing, will then take place in September 2022.

View of the building

The centerpiece is the restoration of three of the four exterior facades and the Schlüterhof. The reconstruction was based on the designs of the original palace. The historic dome above the Eosander portal was also rebuilt.

Sandstone was predominantly used for the façades. Reconstructing the numerous sculptures, reliefs and architectural ornaments was a technical challenge. Stonemasons, sculptors and other specialists worked for years to recreate the details based on historical photographs, plans and surviving fragments. Wherever possible, they tried to integrate preserved original parts of the old castle into the new façades.

I particularly like the two beautiful portals. The Eosander Portal (Portal V) on the west side (Lustgarten) is the main entrance. It is crowned by the dome. Portal III in the Schlüterhof was designed by Andreas Schlüter.

The east façade facing the Spree is a stark contrast to the historically designed façades. It is made of limestone and has a modern design.

A look inside the building

The interior of the Humboldt Forum is predominantly modern and functional. An attempt has been made to meet the requirements of a contemporary museum and event center.

But if you look very closely, there are small details from the past. Take, for example, some signs that I discovered rather by chance during my tour. These signs originally belonged in the Palace of the Republic and are now reminders of that time.

Visitors to the museum area in the castle cellar can discover the walls of the city castle, old pipes and the remains of the old Dominican monastery.

The sculpture hall is the right place for lovers of old sculptures. Here you can admire the figures that once adorned the city palace.

Tip: A visit to the roof terrace in the east wing of the palace offers a great view over the city.

Museums in the Humboldt Forum

There are various museums in large areas of the Humboldt Forum. I particularly like the fact that most of them are free of charge!

Ethnological Museum

Objects and works of art from Africa, Oceania, America and parts of Asia are on display here. Highlights include:

• The outrigger boat from the island of Luf (Oceania)
• World-famous bronzes and ivory carvings from the kingdoms of Benin (Africa)
• Throne chair from Cameroon
• Figures and masks from various cultures in Africa and Oceania

Museum of Asian Art

Here visitors can see a collection of East Asian, Indian, Southeast Asian and Central Asian art from the 5th millennium BC to the present day. Highlights include

• Chinese court art
• Japanese art
• Sculptures and art objects from India and Southeast Asia
• Art from the Silk Road.

BERLIN GLOBAL (Stiftung Stadtmuseum Berlin & Kulturprojekte Berlin)

An interactive and multimedia exhibition that sheds light on Berlin’s multi-layered relationships with the world. Themed rooms such as revolution, free space, borders, pleasure, war, fashion and interdependence invite visitors to explore.

Humboldt Labor (Humboldt-Universität zu Berlin)

Located on the second floor, this exhibition presents current research projects at the university and its partners.rtner. Es ist ein Ort des Wissens, der zum Dialog und zur Interaktion einlädt.

Visitor information

Address

Humboldt Forum
Schloßplatz
10178 Berlin

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