Cochem Castle: A fairytale trip to the Moselle Valley

In the midst of steep vineyards, deeply cut river loops, and picturesque half-timbered backdrops rises the Reichsburg Cochem (Cochem Imperial Castle). It sits majestically on a prominent rock cone about 100 meters above the town.

For us, it was quickly clear: If we are in Cochem, visiting the castle is simply a must. The Reichsburg can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Our tip: The rush of visitors is very high, especially in the high season. Those who like it a bit quieter should visit the castle either right at the opening in the morning or ideally not until the afternoon around 3:00 PM. At this time, most visitors have already moved on, and the group sizes for the tours become smaller.

The Origins: Toll Station and Palatine Power

The roots of the complex reach back to around the year 1000. At that time, the castle was stamped out of the rock as a palatine foundation and served to control the lucrative trade route on the Moselle. The lords of the castle and guards of that time did not hesitate when it came to collecting money. In order to be allowed to pass the Moselle, the boatmen had to pay a hefty toll. It is reported that the castle’s garrison was even able to block the entire river with a massive chain to ensure no one escaped unnoticed and unpaid. This flourishing and powerful era as a royal imperial castle and later as the property of the Electorate of Trier shaped the region for centuries.

The Fall: French Troops and the Deep Slumber

In 1689, French troops under the rule of King Louis XIV invaded the Moselle valley. The soldiers made short work of it and blew up the proud imperial castle almost completely. Except for a few tower remnants and foundation walls, the structure was razed to the ground.

What followed was an almost two-hundred-year deep slumber. The remains on the rock became overgrown with vines and scrub, and all that was left of the former toll power was a melancholy skeleton.

The Resurrection: Louis Ravené and the Gothic Revival

The fact that an intact castle once again towers over Cochem today is owed by the town to a man who actually had nothing to do with the Moselle: Louis Fréderic Jacques Ravené. This merchant and manufacturer from Berlin, of Huguenot descent, had amassed immeasurable wealth through the steel and iron trade. His family was not called the “Krupps of the East” without reason. Ravené was also involved in the strategically important construction of the Koblenz–Metz railway line, which brought him to the region.

In 1868, the Berlin manufacturer acquired the area in Cochem and began an ambitious construction project. He hired the then highly respected architectural advisors Hermann Ende and Julius Carl Raschdorff to rebuild the ruins. However, the goal was not a historically accurate, scientifically sound reconstruction of the original toll castle. Instead, incorporating the historical building fabric, an idealized fairy-tale castle in the neo-Gothic style was created. A true “orgy of turrets” that corresponded to the 19th-century romantic ideas of the Middle Ages and gave the complex its current, slightly dreamy Avalon character.

The reconstruction of the castle by Louis Ravené is, however, not only an architectural success story but also inextricably linked with a massive social drama that radiated into the highest literary circles of Berlin.

In 1877, the time had finally come: The elaborately restored and expanded castle could be inaugurated. The actual builder, Louis Ravené, was only able to enjoy his castle ruin for a very short time. He died just two years after the inauguration, in 1879, in the Czech spa town of Marienbad, while the newly built castle chapel was just being consecrated in Cochem. He did not live to see the complete expansion. His son, Louis Ferdinand Auguste, took over the scepter, fittingly married the daughter of the architect Hermann Ende, and took care of the further design. In total, the complex remained in the possession of the Ravené family for 75 years before the turmoil of the Second World War and the subsequent transfer of ownership to the city of Cochem closed this chapter.

Path to the Reichsburg

From the old town, you have to overcome a good 100 meters in altitude to reach the castle. Up directly at the Reichsburg, there are no parking spaces for visitors.

We set off on foot. From the market square, the well-signposted Schlossstraße leads up through the castle hill forest and past grapevines. The steep path is paved, and with a bit of basic fitness and sturdy shoes, you arrive at the castle gate after about 15 to 20 minutes. Even if the path is strenuous, it was worth it! At several points, we had a fantastic view over the valley.

Tip: In the high season, there is the “Reichsburg Shuttle”. This small, fee-based public bus commutes from the central Endertplatz up to the castle.

What Awaits You at the Castle

The Reichsburg is impressive even from a distance. Particularly striking are the many small turrets, which remind me more of a Disney castle than a defiant fortress.

My gaze first fell on a gigantic mosaic picture, four by eight meters in size. It shows St. Christopher, the patron saint of all travelers and boatmen. The artwork visible today is not the original from 1870. That original mosaic was destroyed during the rule of the National Socialists and was only replaced by a new replica in the post-war period.

Insight into the Past: The Castle Tour

With the start of the castle tour, it is possible to enter the castle courtyard. High, mighty walls tower around us, and via a staircase, we get into the interior of the castle.

You enter rooms whose walls are covered all over with elaborate wood carvings. The gaze inevitably wanders upwards to the massive wooden beamed ceilings in the Neo-Renaissance style. The rooms are filled with valuable historical furniture, ornate vases, and an impressive weapons collection. The architects insisted on dividing the rooms thematically, which is why you can admire both an explicitly “Gothic” and a “Romanesque” room.

What stayed in my memory particularly are the bizarre details and curiosities that are shown.

Equally impressive is a custom-made suit of knight’s armor that was forged for a man over two meters tall and is reminiscent of a true giant. Anyone who has ever been to Ambras Castle in Innsbruck will discover a similar suit of armor there. Allegedly, there really were people who, unlike their contemporaries, were much taller. Whether they could actually move or even fight in these suits of armor, however, is rather unclear.

The tour guides are known for conveying history with a lot of humor and detailed knowledge, making the tour very entertaining. We learned in passing where the term “windowsill” comes from or why, in the Middle Ages, carpets were placed on tables instead of on the floor.

My personal highlight was the visit to a balcony from which you have a truly incredible view of the Moselle valley.

At the end of the tour, we went back into the castle courtyard. Here we were shown the well. In order to ensure the autonomous water supply for the residents, a castle well was driven deep into the rock. This reaches about 50 meters deep and taps into a natural water vein from the Eifel region.

The guided tour through the Reichsburg lasts about 40 minutes and shows all the important state rooms. Once an hour (in the summer months), there is a regular tour in English. In addition, free translation texts are available in 12 different languages.

Gastronomy: Castle Tavern and Knight’s Meal

A proper excursion into history inevitably makes you hungry. The Reichsburg Cochem offers gastronomic concepts ranging from a quick refreshment in between to evening-filling event gastronomy.

Right on the castle grounds is the Burgschänke (Castle Tavern). It is open daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM during the summer season. There are warming small soups, hearty stews, the popular “knight’s bread,” or classic schnitzel dishes. Fans of sweet cuisine are also catered for: a wide selection of cakes, pies, and coffee specialties is available.

A Supper like in the Middle Ages

With advance booking, there is also the opportunity to experience the “Ritter-Gasterey” – a rustic knight’s meal. It is no normal dinner, but an elaborately staged, four-hour spectacle that immerses you in the customs and traditions of the Middle Ages. You sit at long wooden tables in the historic vaults of the castle. The feast is accompanied by music, medieval entertainment interludes, the demonstration of old noble customs, and amusing knight games.

Conclusion: The castle that is more than just a photo motif

The Reichsburg Cochem polarizes. For purists of castle research, it is a historically inaccurate fantasy building from the 19th century. For mass tourists, it is often just a quick selfie motif. But anyone who takes the time to join a guided tour will be thrilled.

The history of the Reichsburg tells of medieval toll lords, of brutal destruction, of the beginnings of tourism, and of the irrepressible romantic yearning of a wealthy industrialist. We liked it!

Visitor Information

Adresse

Schlossstraße 36,
56812 Cochem

The visit to the Reichsburg took place as part of a press trip organised by Mosellandtouristik GmbH and Ferienland Cochem .