Idar-Oberstein is located on the edge of the southern Hunsrück, in the valley of the Nahe. The town has become known worldwide as a jewellery and gemstone town and continues to captivate gemstone lovers to this day.
Today’s Oberstein district developed from the lordship of Oberstein, which was first mentioned in 1075. The Lords of Stein (Oberstein) once had their seat at Bosselstein Castle, which can be seen today as a ruin high above the town.
The present-day district of Idar emerged from the small village of Idar, which was located on the right bank of the Idarbach. This area belonged to the lords of Oberstein and thus the historical development is closely linked to the history of Oberstein.
A special feature of the region are the natural deposits of some types of gemstones such as agate or jasper. This was a stroke of luck for the population. Agate cutters, agate drillers, goldsmiths and miners were able to make a good living from the finds and the processing, and crafts and the economy developed in the region. The goldsmiths settled on the banks of the Nahe in Oberstein, while the agate cutters preferred the area along the Idarbach because of the better water conditions.
Around the middle of the 18th century, the regional agate deposits were almost exhausted. Mining in the mines was no longer worthwhile. In Idar, the cutters now imported agates from Brazil. In Oberstein, companies began to convert to metal processing. For example, watch chain and costume jewellery factories were established. For many years the economy was booming, until in the 1970s not only stricter environmental regulations but also competition from low-wage countries made work increasingly difficult. Today, not much is left of the flourishing industry. Idar-Oberstein is the world trading centre for gemstones, there are still small jewellery manufacturers and some stone cutters and engravers. The large factories, however, have closed down.
We strolled a little through the long town and had a look around.
Jakob Bengel Industrial Monument
On the trail of industrial history in the Oberstein district, we were drawn to the historic Jakob Bengel watch chain and jewellery factory. During an informative, exciting and above all impressive guided tour, we learned about the production process.
Our experiences and impressions of the visit can be read in the article “Industrial monument Jakob Bengel – historical chain and costume jewellery production from Idar-Oberstein“.
Felsenkirche
The Protestant Felsenkirche is the landmark of Idar-Oberstein. High above the town, in the middle of the rock, Wirich IV of Daun-Oberstein had the church built around 1483 on the foundations of a cave castle.
There is an almost tragic legend surrounding the construction of the Felsenkirche.
Around the middle of the 11th century, the brothers Wyrich and Emich von Oberstein lived at Bosselstein Castle.
The brothers were both in love with Bertha von Lichtenburg. Emich, the younger brother, became engaged to Bertha. When Wyrich found out about this, he became so angry that he threw his brother out of the window to his death. He confessed the deed to an abbot, who demanded the construction of a chapel as atonement for the fratricide. With his own hands, Wyrich was to build a place of worship on the exact spot where his brother had died. After he had finally completed the building, Wyrich asked God for a sign of his forgiveness. Then a spring sprang up from the rock, which is still bubbling today. Wyrich did not outlive his brother for long. At the dedication of the chapel, he sank down dead in front of the altar.
The path up to the church is steep. Every now and then the view opens up over the city and finally you reach a tunnel that leads into the interior of the church. Unfortunately, due to its location in the steep rock, there have been repeated rockfalls and considerable damage to the rock church. In recent years, safety measures were carried out and the church was closed for a long time. Since the work will be finished from 2023, you can then visit the church again from mid-March to mid-November.
Unfortunately, we could only take a look at the impressive building of the Felsenkirche from the outside.
Bosselstein Castle
Above the beautiful Felsenkirche, we discovered the ruins of Bosselstein Castle. Following the signposted hiking trail, we reached a wooded area. There we discovered a memorial stone commemorating the victims of the world wars and not far away a few benches at a lookout point.
Then we reached a stone bridge leading to the castle ruins. Not much is known about the origins of the castle. However, it is believed to be one of the oldest castles in the Nahe region. The castle has been uninhabited since around 1600 and is increasingly falling into disrepair. Not much is left of the once 800-square-metre complex. The stump of the keep stands on a rock and a staircase leads to a platform directly on the edge of the rock. From there you have a wonderful overview of the city. A prominent landmark for us was the chimney of the Bengel industrial monument, which we had visited earlier.
From the ruins of Bosselstein Castle you have a great view of Oberstein Castle, another destination in Idar-Oberstein.
Oberstein Castle
Oberstein Castle is situated on a rocky spur above the district of Oberstein. The Lords of Daun-Oberstein lived here for many years.
In 1250, Gud(run) von Oberstein married a Wirich von Daun. After disputes over ownership of Bosselstein Castle, the Daun-Oberstein family had Oberstein Castle built (1320) and moved in. Until 1624, the castle was the permanent residence of the counts of Daun-Oberstein-Falkenstein. In 1667, the then owner sold the castle to the Duke of Lorraine. During the Palatinate War of Succession, French troops blew up four rondels of the castle complex. A fire destroyed the entire estate in 1855, and it was not rebuilt until 1981.
Today, visitors can tour the courtyard and the restored rooms from the beginning of April to the beginning of November. In addition, it is possible to rent the rooms to hold events and celebrations in a festive setting.
Opening hours:
1 April – 1 November
Tuesday – Sunday: 11 am – 5 pm
In July and August also on Mondays.
Admission prices:
Adults: 3,-€
Discounts are available.
German Gemstone Museum
After a stroll through the pedestrian zone with its small shops, past the Idar-Oberstein railway station, you finally arrive at the German Gemstone Museum.
A visit to this wonderful museum is not to be missed. There are flashes and sparkles everywhere, the gemstones sparkle and show themselves in all their beauty. If you want to find out more about the visit, you should read the article “Searching for clues in Idar-Oberstein: Stones, precious stones, gemstones!”.
Restaurant tips in Idar-Oberstein
During our time in EdelSteinLand we enjoyed two specialities of the region: good wine and the traditional spit-roast. Both met our taste and we also liked the restaurants we went to for dinner.
Wine Concept Stüber
Somewhat hidden in a backyard is the Weinkonzept Stüber. The restaurant offers seating on 2 floors and in the summer guests can spend some quality time in the quiet outdoor area. Since there are only a few seats available and the wine concept only opens two days a week, you should definitely make a reservation.
Every week, the operator offers a new 2-course menu made from seasonal produce. He recommends selected wines to go with it. During our visit, we were able to enjoy a small starter platter with a soup, some salad and a quiche. For the main course, the kitchen served loup de mer with rosemary potatoes and winter vegetables. The food was excellently balanced in terms of taste and we enjoyed it very much.
In keeping with the wonderful evening at Weinkonzept Stüber in Idar-Oberstein, we drank two wines from Weingut Hees. Fruity, not too dry and full-bodied – a dream to eat and enjoy!
Address:
Hauptstraße 74
55743 Idar-Oberstein
Table reservation, menu planning and opening hours:
Please check the website of the Stüber wine concept.
Spit roast in the Grill Stube at the Diamanthotel
Spit-roast is one of the specialities that should not be missed when visiting the region. The Diamanthotel Idar-Oberstein offers its guests an excellent spit roast in the Grill Stube with its open kitchen.
The spit roast is a piece of meat that is put on a spit and prepared over an open fire. In Idar-Oberstein, a distinction is made between Idar and Oberstein spit roasts. In Oberstein it is a roll roast on a spit. The Diamanthotel is in the district of Idar. Here, the spit roast is a piece of meat that is cooked on a swivel grill over an open fire. The chefs like to use beech wood for their grill, which gives the meat a wonderful smoky note.
After a long day, we were very much looking forward to the Grill Haus and dinner. We really liked the relaxed and informal atmosphere.
While we enjoyed a warming and wonderfully creamy soup, the cook fired up the fire under the swivel grill. Almost meditatively, the grill swung in a circle over the fire while our meat slowly cooked. The smell of the meat hit our nostrils and we could hardly wait to taste the food.
What can I say, it tasted simply fantastic. The meat was wonderfully juicy and had a great flavour of its own.
We had regional beer to go with the food. We particularly enjoyed the in-house beer. The seasonal winter lager was drinkable and not too malty. It went perfectly with the hearty meal, which was the crowning finale of the day for us.
Address:
Tiefensteiner Str. 235,
55743 Idar-Oberstein
Hotelwebsite
This article was written after a research trip to EdelSteinLand.
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