Say Cheese – the cheese market in Alkmaar

Cheese as far as the eye can see …The cheese market in Alkmaar is the oldest and largest cheese market in the Netherlands. If you watch the hustle and bustle here, you will learn a lot about traditional life and the cheese trade in the Netherlands.

History of the cheese market

The history of the cheese market in Alkmaar dates back to the Middle Ages. Alkmaar already had cheese scales in 1365, which indicates the existence of the cheese trade.

The cheese market experienced a significant boom during the Dutch Golden Age in the 16th and 17th centuries. During this period, the Waagplein, the central square where the market took place, was considerably enlarged. This was done to accommodate the increasing volume of trade. The market as we know it today officially began in 1622, when the open-air cheese market was established in the city centre. Alkmaar developed into one of the leading cheese cities in the Netherlands.

The cheese market today

Today, the cheese market in Alkmaar is primarily a tourist event that attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world. Every week, visitors are shown how the cheese trade once took place. However, real cheese trading no longer takes place.

The course of the market

Shortly before 10am, we arrived at the large square where the cheese market takes place. Behind barriers stood countless visitors who wanted to watch the spectacle. If you don’t arrive early, you have to make do with a place in the back row.

Today I am very glad that I was in the city at the invitation of Visit Alkmaar and was able to experience the cheese market. We were able to go straight to the square where hundreds of cheese wheels are lined up.

After being greeted by the ‘cheese father’, we quickly made our way to the cheese bell. This is traditionally rung punctually at 10 a.m. and opens the market. It is a special honour for the person who rings the bell. It is almost always Dutch personalities or people invited by the city council. Careful consideration is given to who is given the honour. This time, someone from our group was actually invited to open the market. The lot had been drawn and Andrea from Trips4kids rang the bell. The countdown began and when the ‘go’ sounded, she rang the bell for all she was worth. If that wasn’t heard all over the city, I should be very surprised. My ears continued to ring for quite a while.

As soon as the last sound had faded away, it was time for the cheese carriers, weighers and cheese inspectors to start their work. And we were right in the middle of it all, with everything being broadcast live on the big screen and Andrea presenting everything from the cheese testing interview to the cheese carriers to the viewers on the screen.

Inspecting the cheese

Two of the most famous Dutch cheeses are traded at the cheese market in Alkmaar: Gouda and Edam. However, before they are traded, their quality must be checked. Only then can a price be set.

Then the inspection process begins:

• Visual inspection:
  Firstly, the cheese is visually inspected. The inspectors look at the colour, shape and size of the cheese wheels. This visual inspection helps to assess the quality of the cheese at first glance.
• Tapping test:
  A traditional method of quality inspection is the tapping test. Here, the inspectors tap the cheese with a special hammer in order to draw conclusions about the consistency and any cavities inside by the sound.
• Cheese drill:
  Another important tool is the cheese drill. This device is used to remove a small cylinder from the cheese. The cheese stick is first carefully bent. The flexibility reveals something about the degree of ripeness. The cheese is then smelled in order to recognise the aromas. Finally, the flavour is tested.

These samples show the expert tester the fat content of the cheese, for example. Some cheeses are also cut open to check that the holes are distributed as evenly as possible.

The results are recorded and the trade between buyer and producer can begin. The negotiations were traditionally carried out with a handshake. The final handshake seals the sale.

Cheese carriers of the Cheese Carriers’ Guild

The special thing about the cheese market in Alkmaar is the tradition of the “Kaasdragers” – the cheese carriers. These men, recognizable by their white suits and colourful straw hats, are members of the Cheese Carriers’ Guild.

The cheese carriers’ guild was founded in 1593 and always consists of 33 members. These are divided into 4 groups (the Vemen), which can be easily distinguished visually. The straw hats in yellow, red, green and blue are the respective group characteristics.
Each group consists of 6 porters and one person on the scales. In addition, there is the cheese father, who can be visually recognized by the orange straw hat.

To become a member of the Alkmaar Cheese Carriers’ Guild, another member must first give up their post. This doesn’t happen often, as being a cheese bearer is an honor that has to be earned.

You start out as a temp and complete a two-year apprenticeship. During this time, you learn about the various tasks and rituals of the guild. Only after successfully completing this apprenticeship can you become a full member of the guild as a cheese bearer. Until someone gives up their post, however, you are initially a temporary employee who fills in when someone is absent.

The Cheesefather of Alkmaar is the central figure in the guild. He is responsible for the smooth running of the cheese market and assigns the individual groups their tasks.

Transporting the cheese

Once the cheese has been checked for quality, the task of the cheese carriers begins. Two carriers always take a special wooden stretcher. This stretcher is called a “berrie”. It is specially designed to transport several heavy wheels of cheese at the same time. The helpers distribute up to 8 cheese wheels, i.e. 100 kg, on the stretcher. Carrying the cheese not only requires skill, but also a lot of stamina.

The cheese carriers hang carrying straps over their shoulders to which they attach the stretcher. Then they lift the stretcher and the real spectacle begins for me at the Alkmaar cheese market. The cheese carriers run across the square, almost floating in step. A strange running style that has developed over the years to minimize the physical strain on the carriers. I have read that this run is also known as the ‘Kaasdragersdribbel’.

As I watch the carriers, I notice that there are always two teams of each color on the course. One team has a short break and can then be found in the cheese carrier room.

Weighing the cheese and transporting it away

The cheese is now carried to the scales. The historic scales are located on the first floor of the Waaggebouw. Here they still work manually and use large weights to check how heavy the cheeses really are. The person at the scales is called “Tasman”. This name refers to the bag he wears around his waist. It is used to store the money.

The carriers place the wooden frame with the cheese on a giant weighing pan and then the cheese can be weighed, with the process being recorded on a slip of paper. Then the cheese carriers lift the stretcher again.

The cheese is carried all over the square and reloaded into wooden carts, which are then driven to the buyer.

A look behind the scenes

We were also allowed to take a look inside the Waaggebouw with the rooms of the Cheese Carriers’ Guild.

The “break room” is equipped with two large tables and there is also a small kitchenette. Each member of the guild has a small cupboard where their straw hat fits.

On the second floor of the building, we can take a look at rooms designed as museums. A meeting room is the centerpiece of the tour.

We also come to a kind of “balcony” from which we get an excellent view of the activity on the scales. The hanging of the old scales in the room is really great!

If you like, you can stand on the scales yourself and have your photo taken with a hat and cheese. The queue for the souvenir photo was surprisingly long.

What hardly anyone knows

Today, the Alkmaar cheese market is a show event. Although the exact course of the market day is re-enacted, the real cheese trade takes place elsewhere.

On market day, the countless wheels of cheese are transported from the factory to the city by truck and neatly lined up by hard-working helpers. A total of 30,000 kilograms of cheese, or around 2400 wheels, find a place in long rows. After weighing, the cheese is then taken back to the trucks on wooden carts and loaded.

The completed weighing and quality sheets are sent back to the factory and also form the basis for resale.

Should you visit the cheese market in Alkmaar?

Absolutely!

I hadn’t given much thought to this traditional event before my visit. I was all the more amazed at the effort that goes into explaining the cheese trade to visitors.

Of course you could do this in a museum, but it was the live experience that made a lasting impression on me. The explanations of what was happening were clear and understandable.

For me, the cheese market in Alkmaar is simply the top attraction in the city that you simply shouldn’t miss.

Good to know

Travel informations

Address

Waagplein
Alkmaar

The visit to the cheese market was part of a press trip with Visit Alkmaar.