Wijk bij Duurstede presents itself as a place of absolute relaxation. Life plays out on the terraces at the central market. Cycling and hiking trails invite you to take extensive tours – a place almost too good for just a day trip.
Unfortunately, we were only in this idyll for one day, but for us, it was certain: Wijk bij Duurstede is the perfect starting point for a longer stay.
Some Historical Background Knowledge
The city’s slogan is “Kleine stad, Grote geschiedenis” (Small city, Great history), and no description could be more fitting. The strategic location at the fork of the Kromme Rijn and Lek waterways was the breeding ground for immense wealth and made this place a stage for European history.
The Golden Age of Wijk took place while the rest of Europe was still stuck in the “Dark Ages.” From the 7th to the mid-9th century, Wijk bij Duurstede was the site of Dorestad, by far the most important international trading center in Northwestern Europe.
Archaeological excavations have revealed that Dorestad was a city of enormous size, stretching for several kilometers along the riverbanks. It consisted of three main parts: the lower town in the north (today’s Wijk bij Duurstede), the upper town in the south, and a middle section in between, which is now partially overlaid by the riverbeds of the Nederrijn and Lek. The city’s wealth attracted merchants from all over Europe.
Due to shifts in trade routes, Viking raids, and changes in the river courses, Dorestad eventually fell into decline. It wasn’t until the late Middle Ages that the area experienced another golden age. A decisive figure in this was David of Burgundy (David van Bourgondië), who ruled from 1456 to 1496. He was considered the most powerful bishop in Europe. Through clever political maneuvers by the Burgundians, he was appointed Bishop of Utrecht. However, he was unwanted and shunned in Utrecht itself.
As a result, David unceremoniously moved his court to Wijk bij Duurstede. He had the existing castle expanded into a grand residence befitting his status and drove forward the expansion of the church into an impressive, three-aisled cruciform church.
Sights
Kasteel Duurstede (The Water Castle)
We enter a park and stroll directly toward Kasteel Duurstede. One thing strikes me immediately: the castle is a real postcard motif. It may have a centuries-old history as a medieval fortress, but what really impresses here and today is the visual spectacle.
The history of the water castle began in the Middle Ages as a simple residential tower. However, it reached its peak in the 15th century when the powerful Bishops of Utrecht expanded the castle into one of the strongest fortresses in the country. What you see today is the result of wars and neglect over the centuries. But that is exactly what makes up its charm today.
What immediately impresses here and now is the location. The castle is beautifully situated in the water. The walls and towers are reflected in the broad moat, giving the whole scene an almost dreamy atmosphere.
The absolute focal point is undoubtedly the massive, round tower – the “Bourgondische Toren.” It was added back then by the bishops and still looks robust and defensive today.
The Kasteel is one of the oldest and most picturesque medieval castle ruins in the Netherlands. Today, it is primarily used as an exclusive event location for weddings and corporate parties. The surrounding park is open to the publi
Tip: From April to November 1st, the island is open every Sunday from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM, provided there is no exclusive event taking place that day. On these Sundays, a small café offering coffee and wine is available in the courtyard.
Address: Langs de Wal 67
Die Grote Kerk (St.-Janskerk)
We couldn’t miss the Grote Kerk, or St.-Janskerk, while we were in Wijk bij Duurstede. It is a building that immediately impressed me but also raised questions.
The first thing we noticed is, of course, the tower. It dominates the cityscape, but something is strange: it isn’t finished. The huge, heavy, and robust brick tower base suddenly stops. This is the famous “stump” of Wijk bij Duurstede. The contrast between the massive scale of the base and the abrupt, flat roof is fascinating. It almost feels as if time stood still right in the middle of construction.
The History: A Dream That Was Never Completed
In the 15th century, Wijk bij Duurstede was a rich and important city, thanks in part to the bishops at Kasteel Duurstede. A church of significant stature belonged to this status. A plan was drawn up for a massive cruciform church that was meant to rival those in Utrecht or Den Bosch.
Construction on the tower began around 1486. It was supposed to be over 100 meters high, a true status symbol. However, finances ran dry (the city’s economic boom faded), and city fires caused major damage and delays. As a result, the construction of the tower came to a final halt around 1510. It never grew beyond 40 meters.
As if that weren’t enough, the church fell into disrepair during the Reformation and the Eighty Years’ War. The large nave (the connection between the tower and the choir) was severely damaged, possibly by a storm or simply due to neglect. In the 17th century, this collapsed section was torn down.
When we enter the church, we actually stand right in the old high choir. What immediately stands out is the atmosphere. Because the large nave is missing, the space feels surprisingly intimate, quiet, and tall. The light shines beautifully through the high, Gothic windows.
Visiting the church is possible from April to October every Wednesday and Saturday from 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM. Tower climbs must be organized and booked separately through the tourist information office (VVV).
Address: Kerkstraatje 4
Molen Rijn en Lek (The Mill)
Arguably the city’s most famous photo op is the “Rijn en Lek” windmill. The mill doesn’t just stand in the city; it stands on top of the city wall, right at the fork where the Rhine (Rijn) becomes the Lek.
The mill is a “Stellingmolen” (gallery mill). This means it is built so high that its sails protrude over the city wall to catch the full wind off the river. Through a door in the city wall, we first climb up a bit until we are standing inside the actual mill.
The “Rijn en Lek” is a grain mill (Korenmolen). The mill as it looks today dates back to 1659. Volunteer millers still operate it.
On the ground floor of the mill, there is a small shop. Here you can buy flour that was actually milled on-site.
Via steep wooden ladders, we climbed from the small shop up to the mill’s gallery. From this wooden walkway, you get a fantastic view. On one side, we could see the wide River Lek with its ships, and on the other, the rooftops of the old town.
We were “lucky” that the mill was standing still that day due to strong winds. This made it possible to climb up into areas of the mill that are otherwise not shown to visitors. The giant wooden gear system and the millstones are truly impressive.
Why the Rijn en Lek is So Famous (And Often Confused)
Now for the most important point: The “Rijn en Lek” is world-famous, but not necessarily for how it looks today.
The reason is the painter Jacob van Ruisdael and his masterpiece “The Mill at Wijk bij Duurstede” (c. 1670), which now hangs in the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.
And this is exactly where the “confusion” lies. Ruisdael painted the mill at this location. However, what he painted was never this mill. It is believed that he painted a different mill in the city, which no longer exists, and simply “placed” it in a different spot. Ruisdael heavily dramatized the scene. In the painting, the mill appears much more massive, almost monumental, and stands under a dark, threatening sky.
Visitors often come to the mill expecting to see the one from the famous painting. Instead, they find a different, albeit equally beautiful, mill. Ruisdael didn’t copy reality; rather, he captured the atmosphere of this place and turned it into one of the most famous paintings of the Golden Age.
The mill is open to visitors every Wednesday and Saturday from 12:30 PM to 4:00 PM. Admission is free.
Address: Dijkstraat 23
The Old Town
The market square is lined with beautiful old houses featuring gabled facades, which house inviting cafes and restaurants like “De Engel” or the “Stadsbrasserie Dorestad.” When the weather is nice, the terraces are full, and there is a relaxed atmosphere. In the center of the square stands the old town hall.
Narrow, cobblestone alleys branch off from the square in all directions. Everywhere you look, you see historic buildings that now accommodate small specialty shops, boutiques, and galleries.
We peeked into some of the shops. How about a handcrafted bag from “vandinther tassen”? They also offer workshops where you can make your own bag. Or you can look over the cobbler’s shoulder at “V.O.F. Ter Steeg,” or discover an artist at one of the numerous galleries like Britt’s Art (here, too, you can do your own artistic work in workshops). For me, it’s a little shopping paradise with lots of beautiful things that I would have loved to buy immediately.
Restaurants, Cafes, and Local Brewing Art
From fine dining to craft beer – everyone should be able to find something to their taste in Wijk bij Duurstede.
Stadsbrasserie Dorestad
We had dinner at the Stadsbrasserie Dorestad. Fortunately, we had reserved a table shortly beforehand. If we had shown up without a reservation, we definitely wouldn’t have gotten a seat.
It is a classic brasserie, offering typical Dutch and European brasserie cuisine. In the evening, the menu features items like pork skewers with satay sauce, steak, schnitzel, fish dishes (e.g., sea bass), and vegetarian options.
We opted for a burger and a massive goat cheese salad, paired with a beer from the Stadsbrouwerij de Dikke.
We enjoyed our food, felt very comfortable, and would definitely eat there again.
Address: Markt 11b, 3961 BC Wijk bij Duurstede, Niederlande
Stadsbrouwerij de Dikke
he local city brewery specializes in reviving a historic, local type of beer.
What makes “De Dikke” special is the story behind the beer:
- Historical Recipe: The brewery was founded in 2015 to revive a beer based on a historic recipe (a city ordinance) from 1495.
- Kuitbier (Kuytbier): They specialize in “Kuitbier.” This is a traditional Dutch beer style brewed mainly with oats, as well as barley and wheat. The high oat content gives it a very creamy, silky-smooth taste.
- The Name “De Dikke”: The name (“The Fat One” or “The Thick One”) is derived from the historical “Dickbier” (thick beer). In the past, drinking water was often unsafe, so people drank beer instead. There was “Dünnbier” (thin beer, with approx. 2% alcohol, also given to children) and the nutritious, stronger “Dickbier” (approx. 6.5%) for adults.
Well-Known Beers
The brewery’s beer is a must for beer lovers. Here are some of the most famous brews:
Wijkse Dikke (The Flagship): This Kuitbier is brewed according to a historic recipe from 1495. In the glass, it has a light to slightly amber color. It is unfiltered and cloudy. Because of the oats, the beer tastes smooth, creamy, fresh, and slightly fruity (due to the hops used). It’s the perfect introductory beer to get to know the Kuit style. It is more complex than a Pilsner but very drinkable.
Dikke Donder (The Dark One): This dark Kuitbier (Amber/Dubbel style) has an alcohol content of 7.5%. It tastes malty with light notes of caramel, licorice, and dried fruits. I find it very pleasant that it isn’t as sweet as other Dubbel beers.
Dikke OPA (The Hoppy One): The Oat Pale Ale (OPA) is a cloudy blonde beer that clearly puts its focus on the hops. It is distinctly more bitter than the brewery’s other beers and is a very unique interpretation of an IPA or APA. We really like the fruity, tropical taste.
Dikke MAAi (The Fruity One): A surprising fruit beer brewed with the juice of the local sour cherry variety, Maaikers. Refreshing and tart with a clear cherry note. The sweetness is very restrained, and you can taste a slightly bitter or tart note in the finish.
A tasting room is attached directly to the brewery. On Friday and Saturday afternoons, guided tours with beer tastings are offered. These must be booked in advance.
Restaurant Lutum
his restaurant belongs to the absolute top tier of gastronomy in the region. It is somewhat hidden away. You have to walk through a gate on the market square (next to the Stadsbrasserie Dorestad). The entrance is located in a small courtyard.
The restaurant has received multiple awards (under its former name ‘t Klooster and now as Lutum). It holds a Red Michelin Star for its excellent cuisine and a Green Michelin Star for its outstanding commitment to sustainability.
De Engel
A classic “Grand Café” brasserie with one of the coziest terraces in the city. Known for a versatile menu (lunch and dinner), 45 types of beer, and 13 wines by the glass. It also offers a popular “High Tea.”
De Wijkse Graanschuur
Uniquely located right next to the Molen Rijn en Lek. The focus here is on fantastic, freshly baked cakes made using flour from the mill.
From Design Hotels to Dike Lodges
You won’t find any of the large, well-known hotel chains in Wijk bij Duurstede. Here, boutique hotels and high-quality Bed & Breakfasts dominate the scene. However, this means that room capacities are limited. Especially on weekends or during events, booking early is essential.
Our Recommendation
After a long day in Utrecht, the Stayokay Hostel Bunnik offers an ideal place to recharge. Located not far from the vibrant city center, the hostel sits in an idyllic spot on the edge of the village of Bunnik, directly on the banks of the Kromme Rijn.
We are driving along the embankment road of the Rijndijk when we reach one of the most beautiful accommodations we have ever stayed in. Nestled directly behind the dike lies the Bed & Breakfast Dijklodges.
Further Accommodation Tips:
B&B De Swaen
Hotel 1851
Did we like it?
Absolutely! Wijk bij Duurstede is not a city that you “tick off” a list and then forget. You “experience” this place. It is a place of deceleration, nestled in one of the most beautiful river landscapes in the Netherlands. A place we would love to visit again.
Travel informations
How to get there
By public transport:
The best way to get there by public transport is via Utrecht Centraal (CS). From there, bus line 41 (U-OV) runs directly to Wijk bij Duurstede. The bus runs approximately every 15 to 30 minutes. The journey takes about 30 minutes.
By car:
The city is easily accessible from Utrecht.
Parking
There is a no-parking zone throughout the city center and in the adjacent residential areas. Parking is only permitted in explicitly designated parking spaces.
Our tip:
Centrum 1 (Walplantsoen 1). This is a large, central parking lot with 210 spaces. Parking is free in this car park, but on weekdays (Mon-Sat 9:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m., Fri until 9:00 p.m.) it is designated as a “blue zone.” This means that a parking disc must be used and the maximum parking time is 2 hours. Outside these times and on Sundays, parking is unlimited.
FAQ
Tourist Information (VVV Kromme Rijnstreek)
The VVV (Tourist Information) is the central point of contact for every visit. It serves not only as a source of information, but also as a booking office for various activities.
Location: Centrally located at Markt 24.
Services: Sale of route maps, booking of city tours (standard every 1st Sunday of the month at 2:00 p.m.), organization of tower climbs for the Grote Kerk, and sale of products for the OV-chipkaart (public transport card).
Opening hours (standard): Tuesday–Saturday: 10:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m.
Opening hours (Sundays): Open on the first Sunday of the month (1:00 p.m.–4:00 p.m.) and every Sunday from June to August (1:00 p.m.–4:00 p.m.).
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