Nizwa, Jebel Shams, Al-Hamra … these are just some of the places we saw during a two-day tour in Oman. Places that showed us a country that simply has to be discovered.
One of the cities that every tourist in Oman actually visits is Nizwa. The oasis city lies on the edge of the Hajar Mountains and was our first point of interest during our two-day tour to the Jebel Shams.
Nizwa has always been a religious and political center in Oman. The first Iman of the Ibadites was elected here as early as 751 and the city was the national capital until the 12th century. Later, the political leadership moved to other cities, but returned to Nizwa in the 17th century.
We stop outside the city walls in a huge parking lot. I found it very empty and wondered about its size. But it wasn’t Friday either. If you’re looking for a space there on a Friday, you have to be lucky or arrive very early.
Highlight on Friday: cattle market
Unfortunately, it wasn’t Friday and so we found one of the main attractions deserted. Every Friday at 6 a.m., the cattle market in Nizwa comes to life. People flock here from all over the surrounding area, some bringing their goats or cows to sell, others looking for new livestock. Trade is brisk and we were told that, in addition to trade, communication and gossip from the small towns is also important, the news center of the area, so to speak.
Souk
Another popular place, not only for tourists, is the city’s large souk. Nizwa has always been a trading center for spices, household goods and, above all, silverware. The marketplace is particularly busy on Fridays and, in addition to the fixed salesrooms, there are also hawkers with fresh produce selling their wares.
The pottery products that come from Bahla and are sold here are particularly typical. However, I’m not sure whether the Omanis really buy these products here. It seemed very touristy to me.
I felt the same way about the sale of dates. Our guide took us to a large store selling dates of all different qualities and sizes. Supposedly the best place to shop, which he did extensively.
I was very surprised by our visit to one of the jewelry stores. Here, silver jewelry was sold by weight. I saw some beautiful pieces, but we weren’t in Oman to buy jewelry…
Very important – anyone shopping in one of the many stores in the aisles of the souk should definitely haggle. The traders generally set the prices higher and with a bit of skill you can end up paying about half the price.
Nizwa Fort
The fort of Nizwa is located between the old town and the souk. It is the oldest and most famous fortress in Oman.
During his reign from 1649 to 1679, the then Iman Sultan Saif bin Malik Al-Yarubi had the building constructed. The complex has a unique defense system. During our tour, we were shown openings from which attackers were doused with hot date syrup, for example.
The main tower is particularly striking. It is 24 meters high and has a diameter of 40 meters. Today, you can climb the walls of the tower and look out over the city from there.
The castle of Nizwa is embedded in the fortress complex. It is older than the fortress and, after some renovations, includes a public meeting room and the private rooms of the ruling family. Part of the castle can be visited.
The Nizwa Fort is closed during Friday prayers from 12-12.45 pm. Otherwise it is open to visitors daily from 8 am to 8 pm.
Drive to the mountains of Jebel Sham
After our visit to Nizwa, a short stop at the supermarket and pharmacy, we headed into the mountains of Jebel Shams. Our destination was the Jebel Shams Resort, where we wanted to spend the night.
The well-maintained road wound its way higher and higher like a serpentine. To our right and left, we could see the almost unreal rugged mountain landscape. Due to the rain of the last week, it was surprisingly green and so it was not surprising that one or two brave goats enjoyed the green blades of grass standing right at the side of the road.
Unfortunately, we were unable to drive along a section of the route in a wadi as planned. The rain and the water flowing down from the mountains had left its mark and the road was impassable. Our road uphill had also broken up in some places and only allowed us to pass slowly.
We made our first stop on a small plateau that was accessible via a small driveway. I certainly wouldn’t have stopped there if we had been traveling alone. The driveway looked very much like a construction site access road and it was impossible to tell from the road what a fantastic view was about to open up. We could see into a high mountain valley, surrounded by majestic and rugged mountain ridges. Photos can hardly convey this beauty and, above all, grandeur. It was just wow!
Back on the route up the mountain, we had to continue off-road for a few kilometers. The gravel splashed up under the wheels of our four-wheel drive vehicle and the gradient was quite steep in places. I don’t know if you can drive up here in a “normal” rental car and I only saw four-wheel drive vehicles on the road.
Our last stop of the day was the Jebel Shams View Point, the so-called balcony of Jebel Shams. Here you can stand behind a barrier directly on the precipice to a valley. The gorge is about 1000 meters deep and the view is gigantic. Deep below us, an eagle was circling. Sometimes it was so deep in the valley that it was barely visible. There is also a signposted hiking trail in the valley, but it is only suitable for experienced high mountain hikers.
From the viewpoint, it was only a few minutes’ drive until we reached our accommodation, the Jebel Shams Resort.
Al Hamra
During our tour along and through the mountains of Oman, we also came to Al Hamra. The town is over 400 years old and is now divided into two areas. The inhabitants live in the newer part of the town, while the old town is almost deserted. This is mainly due to the changed living conditions of the Omanis, but also because the old buildings are not exactly cheap to maintain.
Most of the buildings in the old town are multi-storey (2-4 storeys). They are built from a mixture of mud, stone and straw and covered with ceilings made of palm beams and palm fronds. The streets and alleyways are narrow and therefore very little sunlight falls between the buildings. I discover open water channels on some of the houses along the deserted “main street”. To this day, these are not only used for irrigation, but also keep the humidity high to improve the living climate.
The main street actually presents a bleak picture. The abandoned houses are falling into disrepair and rubble and garbage is piling up in the ruins. Every now and then I discover front doors which, if they had been refurbished, would certainly be a hit with tourists.
Bait al Safah Museum
In a small alleyway, we then entered the place that was our actual destination for the visit. The Bait al Safah Museum is located behind an entrance door in one of the old town houses. The house has been lovingly renovated, but still retains its old charm. The most important person in the town, the sheikh, once lived here. It was always one of the most representative houses in the village and is now ideal for offering a small insight into traditional life in Oman.
On the first floor there are storage rooms and the kitchen. The family’s living quarters are on the second floor and the servants’ rooms and access to the roof are on the second floor.
Upstairs, I am impressed by the size of the rooms. I particularly like the “men’s room” with its impressive carpet and cozy cushions on the floor. I am amazed to discover a small hole in the wall with a door in front of it. I am told that this is the connection between the “men’s room” and the “women’s room”. This is where the women could pass the coffee when visitors were in the house, for example, without being seen by strangers.
Of course, we also go up to the roof of the museum. From up there, we have a very good view of the deserted old town and the surrounding valley.
The visit to the kitchen of the house was very exciting for me. Two women sat here and showed the museum visitors how coffee is traditionally roasted and ground, how bread is baked and how perfume is made. I was particularly interested in the subject of coffee. The roasting in the pot gave off a wonderful smell in the kitchen. When it came to grinding the coffee beans, a melody sounded in the room. The rhythmic pounding of a bowl – we were told that it is a tradition to invite the neighbors over for coffee.
We really enjoyed our visit to the museum. It was interesting, the guided tour in English was very easy to understand and there was also time to go exploring on our own.
Misfah al Abriyyin
Misfah is a small place, actually more of a village in the area around Al Hamra. It is located on the slopes of the Hajar Mountains at an altitude of around 900 meters on a rock that forms a kind of natural fortress.
We reach the village by car via steep winding roads and drive past the first houses. Our guide wants to drive as far as possible into the village and hopes to find one of the few parking spaces there. We are lucky, there are not so many visitors during Ramadan and we get a good parking space. The village itself can only be visited on foot, but it would be impossible to drive in the narrow streets.
Before we set off to explore, however, we first go to a small tourist store. According to our guide, this shop sells the best honey in the region. He buys a lot and only after some deliberation do we decide to take a very small jar of honey with us. It was a good decision, the honey tastes very good!
A short walk through the oasis
We then set off to discover Misfah and its special features. The small settlement is located in an oasis. There is a falaj water system here that was created over 2000 years ago. Small canals run through terraced fields where the villagers have grown bananas, mangoes, pomegranates and other delicious fruits.
The water is collected in pools, some of which are artificial, and distributed with the help of a sophisticated irrigation plan. However, the basins are not only used to collect the water but, as we experienced, also serve as swimming pools for children. There is a small signposted walking route that takes you through the oasis. However, you should be a good walker. There are not only a few steps to negotiate, you also walk along the boundary walls of the canals in places.
The village itself, through which our path led back to the car, is characterized by narrow and shady alleyways lined with houses on both sides. The houses are built in a style typical of this region, using a mixture of stone, saroj and mud (clay). The houses whose roofs are still covered with palm fronds are particularly beautiful. We were told that some of the buildings are over 200 years old.
Some buildings stood unused in the village for many years. Extensive restoration work has succeeded in restoring the original charm, even if some houses are still empty. There are now even hotels, such as the Misfah Guesthouse and restaurants, which offer Omani tourists the opportunity to use Misfah as a starting point for hikes and excursions in the region. The W9 trekking route, which also leads along an old donkey trail, is said to be particularly beautiful.
Jabrin Fortress
On our return journey to Muscat, we make a short stop at Jabrin Fortress. While our tour guide retires to the small prayer room, we explore the fortress a little.
Jabrin Castle was built in 1670 as a summer residence for Bil’arub bin Sultan al-Yaruba. A few years later, he was elected Iman and the castle became his seat of power.
I can still deliberately refer to it as a castle, because at that time it was still a residential castle where the Iman gathered artists, writers, scientists and friends. His brother did not like this. He disputed the Sultan’s office and also his title as ruler. He was forced to convert the residential palace into a fortress.
Jabrin was given mighty defensive walls and cannon towers that could withstand a siege. The sultan died during the siege and his brother took over. He moved the seat of power and Jabrin remained unused for many centuries.
It was only in the 1980s that the fortress began to be renovated and is now open to visitors.
The fortress has a unique architecture, which is characterized by massive outer walls. The defensive towers are located on the north and south sides. A large gate leads into the inner courtyard. The courtyard is surrounded by galleries from which the rooms on the upper floor can be reached. The imam’s living quarters, bedrooms, classrooms and state rooms are located in the western part of the building. The rooms of the other family members and servants are located in the eastern part of the building.
The tour into the mountains of Oman with the sightseeing program took place Arabica Orient Tours .
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