There’s something magical about the desert for me, something unknown, something I want to experience. During our trip to Oman, the time had come: we went to the Wahiba Sands.
Rimal Al Wahiba or Wahiba Sands is a desert in the east of Oman. It covers an area of 12,500 km², which corresponds roughly to a north-south length of 180 kilometers and a width of 80 kilometers.
If you look at the area on a satellite image, you can clearly see that the large dunes run in a north-south direction. There are valleys between these dunes that are used as “roads”. Although the term “road” is misleading. Nothing here is paved or concreted, you drive on sand, which is occasionally packed and sometimes very loose. There are no fixed routes, so it is best to follow the tracks of your predecessors.
Drive into the desert
Our desert adventure begins in the village of Bidiyya. Our driver drives up to the workshop of a small tire dealer, who hurries to get to the car. His job is to reduce the tire pressure of the four-wheel drive vehicle so that we can drive into the desert without any problems. If the tire is a little softer and “flatter”, it also offers more contact surface in the sand. It should be easier to drive and the car won’t “sink” into the soft sand. When we return from the desert to the road later, the tire pressure is increased again.
The last few meters to the end of the tarmac road were a little slower, but when we hit the sandy track, you could tell that the driver was having fun and, above all, wanted to give us an unforgettable driving experience.
It was still flat around us at first. Every now and then there were a few trees and bushes in the sand. Ghaf trees are particularly common in the region. A little off the path, I discovered small huts made of bech and wood. There was usually a fenced-in area next to them. Some of these huts serve as temporary accommodation for the Bedouins when they are looking after their animals. Our driver explained to us that many of the Bedouins have now settled in the village. The quality of life is better there and it is easier for the children to get to school.
The further we drove into the desert, the higher the sand dunes around us became. In some places we drove up smaller dunes in soft sand. The sand was spraying, the car was always leaning a little and the engine howled a few times. I felt a bit like I was on a rollercoaster.
We had to slow down a few times when herds of goats or camels crossed our route.
I was particularly pleased about the many “desert ships” that we could spot everywhere. The camels, some even had young ones, ran through the sand, ate some grass now and then and looked after us. Our driver had to stop more than once so that we could see and photograph the animals in peace.
We were in the Wahiba Sands in March. It was still “only” 35 degrees, but in summer it gets really hot there. It’s better to only be out and about in the desert in the early hours of the morning.
We experienced how important it is to have the right equipment with us on the way back. A jeep was stuck in deep sand and two men were trying to repair something. We stopped and asked if they needed help. But they were well equipped: Water, tools and spare fuel were in the car. There was plenty of cell phone reception and the tow truck was already on its way. So we could drive on with peace of mind.
Sunset in the desert
We were able to enjoy a special experience in the evening. We stayed for two nights at the beautiful desert resort Arabian Night Resorts & Spa, which is located right between two large sand dunes. On our first evening, our driver drove us up one of the dunes so that we could experience the sunset.
He parked the car right on the edge of the dune. His colleague was standing some distance away with another couple and their car. The wind was surprisingly strong up there and the desert sand was swirling upwards. In some places I discovered the patterns the wind leaves in the sand. Ridges formed like little waves of sand, which reminded me a lot of the beach.
We stood above the resort for almost an hour and looked out over the desert. The sun gradually sank behind the dunes, but not without giving the sky a reddish glow. Words cannot really describe this sight. A wonderful and very romantic experience.
After the sun had disappeared, it was time for us and the other couple to head back to the resort for dinner. My hope that we would take the same route back as on the way there was quickly dashed. The car rolled slowly and parallel to the other car towards the edge of the sand dune. Behind it was a steep, very steep descent into the valley. The men were clearly having fun, I held on to the handle rather tensely and didn’t feel like I was breathing again until we reached the bottom. Looking back now, I say wow, great and unforgettable – but I don’t need to do it again.
Camel ride at sunset
For our second evening in the desert, we booked a camel ride. This is possible directly at the resort reception and you are also driven directly to the animals by golf cart.
The camel ride into the Wahiba Sands is not cheap, but it is a truly unique experience. There are various excursion options, from being led in a circle for 10 minutes to the sunset ride. We opted for this excursion. It costs 50 OMR per camel and the trip lasts a good 60 minutes. However, you don’t sit on the camel the whole time during these 60 minutes.
The animals were already waiting for us with their human companions. However, there were 3 camels. Two animals wore a kind of halter with rope, numerous blankets and a kind of saddle. One even had a muzzle. The third animal was a “companion camel”, without which the other animals would not have moved.
The animals were led by a Bedouin couple, who unfortunately didn’t speak a word of English. So I still don’t know whether they were male or female camels or what they were called. They explained to us with gestures which side we should mount from, indicated that we had to hold on tight and then the animals got up. For the next 15 minutes we climbed uphill. The animals were led, the Bedouin was sweating and I was happy… For me, this ride ticked off an item on my wish list.
Almost at the top of the dune, the animals stopped. We had to hold on tight again as the animals lay down so that we could get down. Then we climbed over the dune crest and were alone. For the next 30 minutes we enjoyed the sunset, the desert and the incredible experience.
When the sun had finally disappeared behind the dunes, we returned to the camels. However, it was not possible to climb up for the time being. The slope of the dune was too steep and it would have been too dangerous for us and the animals. So we all walked a bit towards the valley until it was safe for everyone again and climbed up. The animals slowly swayed us back towards the resort.
For me, this excursion was one of the highlights of our trip to Oman. Visiting a desert, riding a camel in the desert and then having a wonderful time in a beautiful hotel. The days were simply beautiful!!!!
The drive to the Wahiba Sands was part of a 2-day tour with Zahara Tours.
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