The Church of Peace in Jawor: a Baroque church made of wood and clay

The Peace Church “To the Holy Spirit” in Jawor (Jauer), Lower Silesia, is without a doubt one of the largest and most fascinating wooden churches in Europe. When you approach it, it doesn’t look like a classic church building at first glance; if it weren’t for an inconspicuous church tower pointing out the sacred function of the building, you could almost mistake it for a huge, historic barn. The church is picturesquely embedded in a park-like complex, the so-called Peace Park, just outside the historic city center of Jawor.

When I stood in front of this unusual half-timbered building for the first time, a question immediately came to my mind: How did this unique, almost provisional-looking construction style come about? The answer to this is a story of oppression, deep, unshakeable faith, and simply brilliant craftsmanship, which rightly earned the building the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A Building Permit with Seemingly Impossible Hurdles

When the Peace of Westphalia ended the Thirty Years’ War in 1648, the Protestant population in Catholic-ruled Silesia was left with nothing. Their churches were confiscated or destroyed, and the free exercise of religion was severely restricted. Only under diplomatic pressure from Protestant Sweden did the Emperor relent. He allowed the Silesian Protestants to build three houses of worship, the so-called Peace Churches in Glogau, Jauer, and Schweidnitz.

A reason to celebrate? Only to a certain extent. Because this permission was tied to harsh harassment and seemingly unfulfillable conditions, which were actually intended to prevent or at least sabotage the construction:

• Forbidden materials: The churches were not allowed to be built of stone or brick. Only perishable materials were permitted: wood, clay, straw, and sand.
• No visible signs: They were not allowed to have towers or bells.
• The location: The church had to be built outside the city walls, and exactly within “cannon-shot distance” of the gates. This way, it could have been quickly destroyed in case of defense.
• The deadline: The construction time was not allowed to exceed one year.

A Masterpiece of the Carpenters: The Race Against Time

The impoverished citizenry of Jawor faced a mammoth task. In order to raise the money for this ambitious project in the first place, delegates traveled tirelessly through Protestant countries in Northern Europe for two years, collecting donations.

The Breslau architect Albrecht von Saebisch was entrusted with the design of the church. The technical implementation was led by the local carpenter Andreas Gamper. To meet the imperial conditions and still create space for thousands of worshippers, they relied on the timber-framed (half-timbered) method.

On April 14, 1655, the foundation stone was laid. Within just a few months, the carpenters raised a gigantic wooden skeleton. The framework spaces were cleverly filled with a mixture of straw and clay. By the end of September 1655, the roof was finished, and on the fourth Sunday of Advent of the same year, the church was solemnly consecrated in an emotional service. The strict one-year deadline had actually been met without any problems!

Stepping Inside: A Baroque Feast of Images

Knowing the story behind the facade, I was naturally drawn into the interior of the Peace Church. The unusual history of its creation had raised my expectations, but I was simply not prepared for what awaited me in the nave. The sight literally took my breath away.

Although the building looks so plain from the outside, the interior completely overwhelms you with the most magnificent, vibrant Baroque. Almost every free wooden surface in the room is artistically painted. To let these impressions wash over me, I first had to sit down on one of the old wooden pews.

Tip for visitors: Upon request, an excellent audio presentation is played in the nave (lasting 10–17 minutes depending on the language), explaining the fascinating history and the details of the architecture in depth. This service is offered in an impressive variety of languages: Polish, German, English, Dutch, Portuguese, Italian, Russian, Swedish, French, Japanese, and Spanish.

Cleverly Built: Space for 5,500 People

Since the ground area of the church was limited by imperial conditions, the craftsmen built upwards. The interior is enclosed by four floors of galleries that wrap around the main nave like spectator tiers in a Baroque theater. Thanks to this clever design, the church offered space for around 5,500 worshippers (including approx. 2,500 seats). Historically, the boxes on the tiers were divided precisely according to class and profession – so the wealthy nobility and the powerful guilds had their own, particularly magnificently decorated seats.

A Huge Picture Bible Made of Wood

Today, the parapets of the galleries serve as a gigantic picture Bible for the observer. Over 150 monumental paintings decorate the tiers. They show scenes from the Old and New Testaments, artistic allegorical depictions, as well as beautiful landscapes and the coats of arms of those local noble families who financially supported the construction at the time.

The ceiling also magnetically draws the eye upward: it is decorated with large, colorful paintings depicting, among other things, the Ascension of Christ and the Revelation of John. I am sure that even if you visit this church every day, you will still discover small, loving details that had previously escaped you.

Among the absolute showpieces are:

• The Altar (1672): It features a multi-tiered architecture with imposing columns, fine carvings, and paintings depicting the Last Supper, the Baptism of Jesus, and the Resurrection.
• The Pulpit (1670): It is supported by an impressive figure symbolizing faith. The sounding board is richly decorated with delicate angels and the figure of the risen Christ.
• The Magnificent Organ: It sits enthroned on the west gallery. Its casing is adorned with lush Baroque leaf decoration (acanthus ornaments) and angel figures. The instrument is said to have such a fantastic sound that well-attended concerts are still regularly held in the church today.

What Actually Happened to the Bells?

Those who paid close attention will remember the original ban on towers and bells. It wasn’t until 1707, more than half a century after the actual construction, that the tide turned. Through the Convention of Altranstädt, the Protestants finally received permission to add a bell tower. This was designed in the matching Baroque style and built directly onto the existing wooden church.

A Symbol of Survival

As I leave the creaking floorboards of the Peace Church and step back into the Peace Park, a feeling of admiration remains. The fact that such a fragile building made of wood, clay, and straw has survived over 370 years, countless wars (including the destruction of World War II), and the dramatic displacements of the 20th century completely undamaged borders on a real miracle for me.

Visitor Information

Address

Kościół Pokoju w Jaworze,
Park Pokoju 2,
59-400 Jawor, Polen

Website of the church

The trip to Lower Silesia took place in cooperation with the Polish Tourism Organization in Berlin .