The sweet horseshoe from Poznań: My afternoon as a baker’s apprentice

Poznań is known for a very special culinary tradition: the St. Martin’s Croissant (Rogal świętomarciński). Especially around November 11th, the name day of St. Martin, the entire city smells of this rich pastry made of Danish pastry dough, filled with white poppy seeds, nuts, raisins, and candied orange peel.

But it’s not only during this time that you can eat the St. Martin’s Croissant. You can find the pastry in bakeries all year round, and there is even an opportunity to learn more about it at a special event.

At the Interactive Museum: The Lesson Begins

As soon as I enter the historic townhouse right on the Old Market Square and climb the old wooden stairs, an unmistakable, sweet scent of yeast, vanilla, and roasted nuts hits my nose. Arriving in the demonstration room, I find a seat from where I hopefully can see everything clearly later on. The room has huge windows offering a perfect view of the magnificent Poznań Town Hall. Promptly at 12:00 PM and 3:00 PM, you can even see the famous mechanical billy goats from here.

The Rogalmistrz (Croissant Master), in our case a female Croissant Master, enters the room. She wears a baker’s apron and hat, has a mischievous smile on her face, and greets us loudly. From the very first moment, the atmosphere is not like a strict museum, but rather like an interactive, humorous theater show.

The Legend of St. Martin and the Lost Horseshoe

Of course, some history is also on the agenda. How did the croissant get its characteristic shape and its connection to Poznań in the first place? Behind it lies a charming legend.

The story dates back to the 19th century. In November, the priest of Poznań’s St. Martin’s Church was preaching about the life of St. Martin of Tours. He told of how the saint shared his cloak with a freezing beggar and called upon his congregation to follow this example of charity and help the poor of the city.

Among the listeners was a local baker. The priest’s words touched him, and he thought long and hard about how he, as a simple baker, could bring joy to the poor.

He prayed to St. Martin for inspiration and finally fell into a deep sleep. That night, the baker had a dream. He saw St. Martin riding through the streets of Poznań on a white horse in shining armor. Suddenly, the horse stumbled and lost one of its horseshoes.

When the baker woke up the next morning, he remembered his dream. He saw the horseshoe as a sign, and the idea came to him to create a sweet pastry in exactly this curved shape.

Charity in the Form of Pastry

The baker immediately set to work. He rolled out dough, filled it with a rich and nutritious mixture of poppy seeds and almonds, and bent the ends to look like a horseshoe. On November 11th, after the festive mass, he brought these “St. Martin’s Croissants” to the front of the church.

His concept was simple but genius: The rich had to pay for the pastry, while the poor received it for free.

The croissants were such a success that the baker could barely keep up with demand. The following year, other bakers in the city joined him to bake together for the poor. The tradition of the Poznań St. Martin’s Croissant was born.

The Historical Core of the Legend

As with many legends, there is a true, historically documented core here that is surprisingly close to the tale:

• The year 1891: The priest Jan Lewicki actually called upon his congregation to do something for the poor.
• The baker Józef Melzer: It was the Poznań confectioner Józef Melzer who responded to this call. He convinced his boss to bake croissants and distribute them for free to those in need.
• The tradition grows: Melzer’s idea was adopted by the Poznań Bakers’ Guild, and baking poppy seed croissants on St. Martin’s Day became a permanent part of the city’s culture.

Baking it Yourself: The Secret of the 81 Layers

Then things get serious: Whoever wants to help bake needs the right equipment. I volunteer, get a large apron tied around me, and a baker’s hat placed on my head.

First, the dough needs to be kneaded. Luckily, there were children present, and they enthusiastically took over the physical work. Because no machine is used here. It’s all done by hand!

After “resting,” the dough is rolled out quite thin. The special, semi-French Danish pastry dough is then precisely folded and rolled until it ultimately consists of an incredible 81 layers. This naturally takes time, and we “cheat” a little. After all, it’s a demonstration, not a baking course.

After the dough is cut into a triangular shape, the filling is placed. A dark, sticky mixture is applied from a piping bag. This mixture consists of: White poppy seeds, raisins, nuts, candied orange peel, and a good dash of almond or vanilla flavoring.

I had to concentrate quite a bit so that the individual steps actually worked. I was a little proud of my result: My first croissant might look a bit misshapen, but it was my first attempt, after all.

The Tasting: A Well-Deserved, Mighty Reward

While “our” croissants symbolically go into the oven, bags are already being brought from the next room. Every guest receives a piece of a fresh, still-warm St. Martin’s Croissant.

I take a bite: The dough is wonderfully flaky on the outside and soft on the inside, the filling is incredibly moist, nutty, and very sweet, topped with icing and chopped nuts. A real Poznań St. Martin’s Croissant is incredibly rich and filling; it often weighs over 200 grams!

With sticky fingers, a sweet aftertaste on my tongue, and an official, humorous certificate in my hand that now distinguishes me as a “Certified Croissant Assistant,” I leave the museum.

The Poznań St. Martin’s Croissant Today: An EU Landmark

Today, the Poznań St. Martin’s Croissant is a landmark of the city. Since 2008, the name Rogal świętomarciński has even been protected by the European Union as a Protected Geographical Indication. Only bakers from Poznań and the surrounding region who adhere to the strictly defined original recipe are allowed to sell their croissants under this name.

Who would have thought that a lost horse’s horseshoe from the 19th century would still cause so many sticky fingers and happy faces today?

Our Tip: Be sure to try it yourself on your next trip to Poznań!

Visitor Information

Address

Stary Rynek 41/2
(Eingang über Klasztorna Straße),
61-772 Poznań

Website with booking options

The visit took place in cooperation with the Poznań Tourism Organisation und Polish Tourism Organization in Berlin .