There are places that are so hyped that you are not sure whether they are really worth seeing or just cleverly marketed. So we were very unsure whether we really wanted/should visit the Livraria Lello in Porto….
If you read the travel guides, online reports or search for the most important sights before visiting Porto, Livraria Lello is always mentioned. But why? What makes a bookshop such a magical place?
From bookshop to tourist magnet
The Livraria is located in a building at Rua das Carmelitas no. 144, where the Livraria Chardron bookshop opened in 1869. A few years later, José Pinto de Sousa Lello bought the building. He already had a bookshop in Porto with his brother-in-law and imported books. After the death of his brother-in-law, he and his brother decided to found the bookshop and publishing house Lello & Irmão, Lda. They opened their bookshop in Porto in 1906.
Even back then, the bookshop must have caused quite a stir. A beautifully curved staircase leads to the upper floor and busts of famous writers stand in the sales room.
The company renovated the store in 1996 and it has been a listed building since 2013.
Livraria Lello became famous when it was included in The Guardian newspaper’s list of the world’s most beautiful bookshops in 2008. However, the store only really started to attract visitors after a rumor claimed that the famous author J.K. Rowling had found inspiration for elements of the Harry Potter novel here.
How can you visit Livraria Lello?
You can’t just walk into the bookshop, have a look around and walk out again. You have to buy a ticket to get in!
You can buy tickets on the bookshop’s website. Various options are offered. A slightly cheaper ticket that “only” includes admission and a slightly more expensive version that includes priority admission and a voucher. This can be credited towards the purchase of a book on site.
Which ticket is the best choice?
Of course, this always depends on various conditions.
Let’s start with the voucher. Almost all the books in the store are in Portuguese. Only a few books are available in English. Anyone hoping for fiction will be looking in vain. There is mainly classic Portuguese literature, poetry, postcards, some travel guides and of course Harry Potter on the shelves. I found the prices to be considerably higher than in other bookshops. It is also not possible to choose every book. The bookshop has reissued five different books to choose from: “Romeo and Juliet”, “The Art of War”, “The Lusiads”, “The Jungle Book” and “The Wizard of Oz”. You can take the book with you when you present your ticket at the box office.
If you are hoping for faster entry, you should pay attention to the time of your visit. There was a huge flow of visitors in the morning. At lunchtime (from 2 p.m.), the crowds slowed down and picked up again in the evening. Otherwise, you can get past the long queue more quickly with the slightly more expensive ticket.
We had observed the visitor situation a few days earlier and booked our time slot ticket accordingly. Despite the time slot, of course you have to queue. We were lucky in the absolute low season and only had to wait around 15 minutes. In high season, waiting times of 1.5 hours are possible.
The reason for this becomes clear relatively quickly when you enter the bookshop. It is small and cramped and far fewer people fit in than the number of tickets issued per time slot. Yes, and once you’re in the store, you don’t usually leave after 5 minutes.
Is a visit to Livraria Lello worthwhile?
If you want to buy a book, I think you should look for another bookshop. I didn’t see one book that interested me. I almost think the store only “survives” because of the entrance tickets and the sale of books is a small side business.
If you want to see a really beautiful store, Livraria Lello is the right place for you. The eye-catcher is of course the beautiful curved red staircase.
You just have to walk up and down here. With a bit of luck and, above all, patience, you might even manage to take a photo without other people. It feels like everyone here is not just taking a selfie. Most people are very considerate and try not to walk into the picture. It’s not easy, but good will counts.
Only after I was able to take my eyes off the red staircase did I have the peace and quiet to look at the beautiful glass ceiling. A truly artistic piece of work, the installation was certainly not particularly easy.
The store has some beautiful elements in the interior that most visitors will hardly notice. There are lamps that are more reminiscent of lanterns, ornately carved shelving elements and if you stand below the stairs, you can also enjoy a very beautiful view.
The visit was worthwhile for us. We took our time and tried to get as good a photo moment as possible, watched people (who took selfies) and also took a look away from the famous red staircase.
Visitor information
Address
Rua das Carmelitas 144,
4050-161 Porto, Portugal
Arrival
By metro
Line D to “São Bento” station
Then you only have to walk about 8 minutes up Rua dos Clérigos to Rua das Carmelitas.
By bus
Livraria Lello is served by the regular STCP city bus lines and the lines of the Yellow Bus and City Sightseeing tourist companies.
On foot
A walk through the old town also takes you to the bookshop.
By train
São Bento train station is about 8 minutes’ walk from Livraria Lello. This station offers connections to various places in the Porto district, the cities of Braga, Guimarães and Aveiro and the Minho and Douro regions.
Opening hours
Monday-Sunday: 9 -19.30 Uhr
closed: 25.12., 1.1., Eastersunday, 1.5. und 24.6
Admission Fee
ab 8 Euro
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