Christmas river cruise from Nuremberg: Discover the highlights of the Danube aboard the MS BELVEDERE

Spending the pre-Christmas season on board a river cruise ship – why not? Visiting Christmas markets in various cities and spending the next night in a floating hotel – a great experience for us. We took a Christmas river cruise on the BELVEDERE by nicko cruises.

A wide-angle shot of the nicko cruises' river cruise ship, Belvedere, docked along a riverbank under a dramatic, cloudy sky. The white and red vessel features large panoramic windows and two circular portholes near the bow, reflecting its design for scenic river travel.

Day 1: Embarkation in Nuremberg

Embarkation on the BELVEDERE took place in the afternoon in Nuremberg. After we received our key cards and initial information at the reception, we went straight to our cabin.

A man in a black jacket and shoulder bag smiles as he walks across a gangway to board the Belvedere river cruise ship.

The Cabin and First Information

A cabin on the middle deck had been reserved for us, and our bags were already standing in front of the door. Behind the door, a bright and friendly cabin with a French balcony awaited us. I knew immediately that I would feel very comfortable there. Sometimes everything just clicks.

Inside a Belvedere Kabine 227 on a river cruise ship, a large sliding glass door offers a view of the water and a nearby town. The room features a neatly made bed with white linens and papers scattered on a patterned throw, along with mauve curtains and a small desk area.

The first information for the current day was already lying on the bed. Every day, usually after dinner, the approximate schedule for the next day is placed in the cabin. It can happen that shifts occur; these are then announced via loudspeaker by the cruise director.

Tickets for booked excursions and extra services (e.g., beverage packages) can also be found in the cabin directly after check-in.

Not even 2 hours later, it was “cast off,” and the BELVEDERE from nicko cruises set sail for the Christmas river cruise. Our journey could begin!

A collection of orange and white Belvedere excursion tickets from Nicko Cruises are scattered on a dark surface, showing various dates and destinations like Regensburg and Nürnberg for passengers.

Info from the Cruise Director and Safety Briefing

No sooner were we underway than all fellow travelers gathered for the obligatory safety briefing. In addition to the explanation of escape routes and life jackets, we were also informed that the sun deck would be closed for the entire trip. The reason was as simple as it was understandable – there are so many low bridges on the route that the safety railings and seating had to be removed. Standing would often not be possible and would be far too dangerous. That was a pity, but fortunately, there was the option to stand at the bow in the breeze.

A view from a boat on a river shows the Belvedere low bridge, a gray steel structure with a red and white diamond sign, spanning the water under a cloudy sky.

An important point later in the evening was also the booking of excursions (if anyone hadn’t booked yet), beverage packages, use of the wellness area, and of course the introduction of some crew members (e.g., captain, hotel manager, cruise director).

Culinary Kick-off: The First Dinner

Dinner is taken by all guests at the same time in the large restaurant area. Every guest sits at a specific table with other guests throughout the entire voyage. On the first evening, there is a 4-course menu where you can choose between different offers for the main course and dessert.

A Belvedere appetizer featuring a scoop of pink pâté atop a dark relish, garnished with a single potato chip and a sprig of frisée lettuce, all encircled by a red sauce on a white plate.

The food left nothing to be desired for us. In terms of taste, it was excellently prepared. It really whetted our appetite for the upcoming evenings.

Note: Guests can choose their menu selection for the following evenings individually from a card in the morning. For example, I mostly skipped the soup. For the main course, there were meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes to choose from.

The day was long, and after a drink in the bar, we were drawn to our cabin. Where would we be the next morning when waking up during the Christmas river cruise?

A woman sipping a Belvedere cocktail through a straw in a cozy lounge setting. She is seated in a plush armchair, wearing a tan turtleneck and blue jeans, with a yellow bag resting beside her.

Day 2: Regensburg

Our day began unexpectedly early. We had slept well and woken up. There was still plenty of time until the official breakfast time. Luckily, however, there was already coffee available at the “early riser breakfast.” We enjoyed the peace and quiet that still prevailed on the ship. With the start of breakfast, the hustle and bustle on the ship began. Gradually, the restaurant filled up, guests took their seats at their assigned tables, and enjoyed the rich selection of the buffet.

Relaxation in the Wellness Area with a View

After another cup of coffee and some muesli, we were drawn to the ship’s wellness area. We had reserved this for an hour to relax a bit before spending the day in Regensburg.

A person wrapped in a white towel sits on a wooden bench inside a sauna, looking out of a large porthole window at the water of the Belvedere.

Highlight: The wellness area is located in the bow of the ship and features large windows (opaque from the outside). Sitting in the sauna while looking at the forests on the riverbank, seeing the wisps of mist on the shore – that is indescribably beautiful!

A view from the water of the Belvedere Uferfelsen, featuring a steep, craggy limestone cliff rising above a dense forest of bare and evergreen trees along a riverbank.

Experience: Passing Through Locks on the Main-Danube Canal

Since the ship wasn’t scheduled to arrive in Walhalla-Regensburg until after lunch, we had plenty of time in the morning to enjoy the cruise. Before the trip with nicko cruises, we were not at all aware of how many locks we would use. On the Main-Danube Canal, we passed 10 locks, and on the Danube, 2 locks. The greatest height difference overcome is 24.5 meters. It is exciting to watch the ship drive into the huge concrete chamber. Depending on the direction of travel, the river cruise ship then slowly rises or lowers. Sometimes the lockage takes only a few minutes, but sometimes over 30 minutes. So it is not surprising that with heavy ship traffic, somewhat longer waiting times can sometimes occur, especially since only one ship fits into the lock chamber given the ship’s length.

A view from the deck of the Belvedere ship as it navigates through a river lock on a foggy day, with metal railings, nautical equipment, and a blue-covered object in the foreground. The lock's concrete walls and a series of streetlights line the misty waterway ahead.

There was a “traffic jam” at the lock on our tour as well. As a result, we reached Regensburg with a delay. The cruise director spontaneously decided to let the participants for the booked excursion in Regensburg get off before a lock. Those who wanted to explore the city privately were also allowed to leave the ship, which then proceeded to the actual docking place at Walhalla. Later transport via buses was organized and departure times were announced.

Guided Regensburg City Walking Tour

Our city guide was already waiting at the ship. For the next 1.5 hours, she led us through Regensburg and gave us a closer understanding of the city’s charm. For us, it was a reunion with a city we had visited in the summer a few years ago. But there were new things for us to discover as well. Not for nothing is the trip with the BELVEDERE offered under the title “Visit with the Christ Child.” So, we also visited the city’s Christmas markets.

An elevated, high-angle view shows pedestrians walking across the historic Stone Bridge over the Danube River toward the colorful, red-roofed buildings of the Stadtamhof district in Regensburg.

For me, the Stone Bridge is a very special place. The bridge is one of Regensburg’s landmarks and is considered the oldest stone bridge in Germany today. A walk across the bridge, which connects the Old Town with the Stadtamhof district, is part of any visit to the city. You should definitely know the legend surrounding its construction and the “bend” in the bridge.

A view of the historic Wurstkuchl (Sausage Kitchen) in Regensburg, featuring its iconic green facade and red-and-white shutters along the Danube. People are seated at outdoor wooden tables next to the small, sloped-roof building, which has a tall chimney emitting smoke.

Tip: The Wurstkuchl (Sausage Kitchen) is located on the bank by the bridge. You can get Regensburg bratwursts there.

A narrow, cobblestone alleyway winds through the historic old town of Regensburg, Germany, flanked by tall, colorful buildings with traditional European architecture and outdoor café seating. Sunlight casts long shadows across the street, leading the eye toward distant white buildings under a clear blue sky.

The tour led us through the alleys of Regensburg to the Old Town Hall. If you are traveling alone, you should definitely take a guided tour of the Town Hall. The famous Regensburg Imperial Diets once took place here, and there is also a torture chamber to see.

The historic Ratssaal in the Old Town Hall of Regensburg features a wooden coffered ceiling, ornate chandeliers, and rows of green benches facing a raised wooden platform with a ceremonial canopy. Large arched windows and colorful tapestries decorate the walls of this grand hall, which once served as the meeting place for the Perpetual Diet.

The tour ended at Regensburg Cathedral. It is worth going inside!

A wide shot of the Regensburg Cathedral towering over the colorful buildings and red-tiled roofs of Regensburg, Germany, situated along the banks of the Danube River under a blue sky.

The Most Beautiful Christmas Markets in Regensburg

After the tour, there was still enough time to stroll through the city’s Christmas markets and drink a mulled wine. Here is an overview of the most popular Christmas markets in Regensburg:

Regensburger Christkindlmarkt

This is the oldest and best-known market in the heart of the Old Town. It is very traditional and ideal for a classic mulled wine stroll.

A bustling Christmas market in Regensburg features wooden stalls decorated with festive greenery, red and white candy-cane pillars, and large glowing Moravian stars. People walk along the cobblestone path past a food stall where vendors in white hats are working, while decorated evergreen trees and historic buildings frame the holiday scene.

Location: Neupfarrplatz (around the Neupfarrkirche)
Special feature: Traditional stalls, children’s carousel
Typical period: From the week before the 1st Advent until December 23rd

Romantic Christmas Market at Thurn und Taxis Palace

An internationally known market with a particularly atmospheric ambiance in the palace courtyard.

Location: St. Emmeram Palace (Thurn und Taxis)
Special feature: Craftsmanship, open fires, the “Princely Christ Child” makes appearances. Very romantic, but usually very crowded.
Admission: This market charges an entrance fee.
Typical period: End of November to December 23rd

Lucrezia Market (Arts & Crafts)

This market is somewhat quieter and focuses on high-quality arts and crafts rather than pure consumption.

At a Regensburg Christmas market stall, a variety of handcrafted metal candle holders made from horseshoes are displayed on white-clothed tables, alongside a basket of loose horseshoes and decorative greenery.

A man in a winter coat stands before a rustic wooden stall at the Regensburg Christmas market, which is filled with handcrafted ceramics, festive decorations, and lit by warm overhead lights.

Location: Haidplatz and Kohlenmarkt
Special feature: Lots of handmade arts and crafts (jewelry, ceramics, wood), cultural supporting program, and often somewhat more unusual culinary offerings.
Typical period: Friday before the 1st Advent to December 23rd

Advent Market in the Spitalgarten

A beautiful market directly on the Danube with a view of the cathedral and the Stone Bridge.

A festive scene at the Regensburg Weihnachtsmarkt Stift features a charming food stall named "Feine Grillerey" nestled among gravel paths, illuminated by warm lights and holiday greenery.

Location: Katharinenspital (Stadtamhof, directly at the Stone Bridge)
Special feature: Spital mulled beer (Glühbier), live sheep, bonfires, and a very cozy beer garden atmosphere in winter.
Typical period: End of November to December 23rd

We headed back to the ship in the late afternoon. However, it departed very late that day from the docking place below Walhalla. So it would have been possible to spend even more time in the city and take a taxi to the ship.

A person's hand holds a blue ceramic mug filled with Glühwein from the Regensburger Christkindlmarkt, featuring a festive illustration of the city's cathedral and snow-covered buildings.

Day 3: Kelheim

When we woke up on our third day of the Christmas river cruise after a somewhat longer night in the bar, the BELVEDERE was already at the dock in Kelheim.

Excursion to Weltenburg Abbey

The day excursion took place in the morning; the buses were already waiting. The trip went first to Weltenburg Abbey. From the visitor parking lot, it took us about 15 minutes on foot to the monastery complex. The path led along the Danube, which still lay before us in the morning mist.

A group of people walks along the Weltenburg Fussweg, a paved path between a steep rock face and a river, on a foggy day.

You enter the large monastery courtyard through a gate. In winter, it lies relatively deserted; only the souvenir shop was open. In summer, there is said to be a beautiful beer garden there.

The entrance to the Weltenburg Abbey church features a grand Baroque stone facade with a central arched doorway, a clock, and a statue of Saint Benedict atop the pediment. To the right, people walk through an arched gateway in a pink wall under a gray sky.

The Asam Church St. George

We were drawn into the abbey church of St. George. The brothers Cosmas Damian and Egid Quirin Asam built this church between 1716 and 1739. You first enter the space through a relatively dark vestibule. But as soon as you step under the gallery, the room opens up, and you stand in a towering, oval, bright domed space.

The absolute highlight of the church magnetically attracts the eye immediately: the high altar. In the center, the church patron St. George rides a white horse in shining silver armor. At the horse’s feet, the dragon writhes, while to the side the rescued princess (representing the church or faith) looks on fearfully.

The ornate high altar of Weltenburg Abbey features a dramatic silver sculpture of Saint George on horseback slaying a dragon, set against a luminous fresco and framed by twisting Solomonic columns.

The genius of this scene is the lighting. The Asam brothers built a window behind the altar structure that is not visible from the nave. The daylight falls in from behind and surrounds Saint George with light. He thus appears almost unearthly and blindingly bright, while the dragon remains in the shadow below – a perfect symbol for the victory of light over darkness.

When you tear your gaze away from the altar and look up, you experience the second big surprise. The dome of the church is actually relatively flat but appears huge and deep due to the ceiling fresco. Cosmas Damian Asam painted figures on the edge of the dome that lean over a painted balustrade and seem to look down at us. Here, too, there is a lighting effect. A hidden ring of light at the base of the dome makes the fresco glow from within so that it seems to float above the darker church interior.

An ornate, low-angle view of the Baroque ceiling at Weltenburg Abbey church, featuring a central oval fresco of heaven surrounded by elaborate gold-gilded stucco figures and intricate architectural details.

Above the entrance sits a magnificent organ that is perfectly fitted into the architecture. Here, too, a real window behind the organ was used, which is almost blinding when the sun shines.

We were lucky enough to have a great tour guide during our tour. He told the story so excitingly that the visit to the church could have lasted forever for me.

Natural Spectacle: Danube Gorge

But another highlight was waiting for us: the Danube Gorge. The Danube Gorge (officially “Weltenburger Enge”) is a spectacular narrow point in the Danube Valley very close to Weltenburg Abbey. It is one of the most significant natural wonders in Germany.

A wide view of the Danube Gorge (Donaudurchbruch) in Germany on a foggy day, where the calm river flows between steep, grey limestone cliffs and bare winter trees shrouded in thick mist.

Over a stretch of about 5.5 kilometers, the Danube forces its way through massive limestone cliffs up to 80 meters high. The river, which flows quite broadly before and after, is compressed at the narrowest point to a width of only about 110 meters and a depth of up to 20 meters.

The exciting thing is: The Danube didn’t dig this valley itself. Around 150 million years ago, there was a Jurassic sea here; today’s rocks are fossilized reefs made of sponges and corals. Originally, the Danube flowed much further north through today’s Altmühl Valley. The current riverbed near Weltenburg was actually pre-formed by other rivers (tributaries of the primeval Danube). The Danube simply took over this “made bed” later.

A wide view of the Danube Gorge (Donaudurchbruch) on a foggy day, featuring calm river water in the foreground and steep, limestone cliffs topped with dense forest rising into the mist.

From the shore, you can only guess how high the rocks tower up. If you have the opportunity, you should definitely pass through these narrows on an excursion boat from Kelheim.

Visit to the Hall of Liberation (Befreiungshalle)

The second stop this morning was the Hall of Liberation high above Kelheim. We got off at the bus parking lot and walked toward the Hall of Liberation. It was still foggy, and the massive structure only gradually came into view.

A large, circular neoclassical monument known as the Befreiungshalle rises from a grassy hill, its tiered stone structure and surrounding statues partially obscured by a thick, heavy fog.

The construction was commissioned by King Ludwig I and designed by the famous architect Leo von Klenze in the Classicist style. The building is a round structure (rotunda). It stands on a massive, three-tiered pedestal. The hall consists of light, yellowish Kelheim limestone.

A white stone statue of a robed female figure, an allegory of Prussia, stands on the exterior of the Befreiungshalle, holding a plaque inscribed with the word "PREUSSEN."

The most striking feature of the exterior facade is the huge statues that surround the upper part of the cylinder in a wreath shape. These are 18 colossal statues standing on mighty buttresses. They look serious and almost a little threatening, like guardians. Their color often stands out in contrast to the lighter masonry behind them, and they were clearly visible even in the fog. These female figures represent allegories of the German tribes (e.g., Franks, Bohemians, Bavarians, Swabians) who were involved in the Wars of Liberation against Napoleon (1813–1815).

To get into the hall, you have to climb a wide, monumental staircase. Above the massive entrance portal is the dedication: “DEN TEUTSCHEN BEFREIUNGSKAEMPFERN / LUDWIG I KOENIG VON BAYERN” (To the German Liberation Fighters / Ludwig I King of Bavaria).

A low-angle shot of the entrance to the Befreiungshalle in Kelheim, Germany, featuring a grand stone staircase leading up to a circular neoclassical monument with statues and columns. Above the dark wooden door, a German inscription honors King Ludwig I and the fighters of the Wars of Liberation.

Inside the Rotunda

You can only enter the interior of the Hall of Liberation with a valid admission ticket. The visit was included in our booked excursion. Honestly, I had no idea what to expect inside the Hall of Liberation. Anyone who knows me knows I am rarely speechless. Here I was! What a large, impressive space, reminding me very much of a festive, sacred temple.

A row of white marble winged victory statues, known as the Figurenkreis, stand hand-in-hand in a circle within the Befreiungshalle, some holding golden shields inscribed with the names of Germanic tribes.

The first thing that captivates the eye is the gigantic circle of white marble figures enclosing the round interior. There are 34 Goddesses of Victory (Victories) made of pure white Carrara marble. The figures are holding hands. This creates the impression of an eternal, solemn round dance. This number of statues stands for the 34 German states that formed the “German Confederation” at the time of construction (mid-19th century). In front of the Goddesses of Victory stand gold-bronze shields. They were cast from the bronze of melted-down French cannons captured in the Wars of Liberation. On the shields, the names of the won battles (e.g., Leipzig, Paris, Waterloo) are written in gilded letters.

A low-angle view looking up at the interior dome (Kuppel) of the Befreiungshalle, featuring a symmetrical, coffered ceiling with concentric rings of golden ornaments leading to a central glass oculus.

The view upwards is almost as impressive as the view of the statues. The dome is designed as an elaborate coffered ceiling, reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. In the middle, at a height of 45 meters, is an opening, the so-called Opaion (or lantern). Daylight falls into the room through this opening. There is a circumferential walkway (a gallery) inside above the statues. If you climb up there, you have an excellent view of the hall.

A high-angle view from the gallery of the Befreiungshalle in Kelheim shows a circular hall with a patterned floor, where numerous visitors stand below white marble statues of winged victories holding hands. Above the arched alcoves, commemorative plaques honor military leaders, all set within the grand, neoclassical interior of the Hall of Liberation.

Back on Board and Evening Program

The excursion was over much too quickly. After a good 3.5 hours of history, architecture, nature, and such interesting places, the bus brought us back to the BELVEDERE.

No sooner were we on board than the ship cast off and drove us back to Nuremberg, where we were not scheduled to arrive until the next day during the Christmas river cruise. So, plenty of time to enjoy the excellent food, some cocktails, and the company of nice people. There was, of course, also an onboard program: Music, a Christmas reading, and eggnog punch provided variety.

Day 4: Nuremberg

In the middle of the night, the river cruise ship docked in Nuremberg. After a hearty breakfast, an excursion to Nuremberg was on the daily program.

Bus Tour: Nazi Party Rally Grounds and Memorium

By bus, we first drove past the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds and made a photo stop at the Zeppelin Tribune and the Zeppelin Field. The tour was accompanied by a tour guide who recounted the most important facts in a truly interesting way.

A view across the Dutzendteich lake in Nuremberg shows the massive, unfinished Congress Hall of the former Nazi party rally grounds reflected in the water. Landscape elements like tall grass and leafy trees frame the foreground, with several ducks swimming on the calm surface of the lake.

A wide shot of the stone Zeppelinfeld grandstand (Zeppelintribüne) at the former Nazi party rally grounds in Nuremberg, Germany, under a clear blue sky.

The next bus stop was then at the Memorium Nuremberg Trials. Unlike other fellow travelers, I knew Courtroom 600, where the trials took place after World War II. I think they would have liked to go inside; I found it very interesting back then, at least. However, our tour was still scheduled to lead through Nuremberg’s Old Town, and 3 hours are not long enough for this visit.

A wall at the Nuremberg Trials Memorium in Room 600 features the text "Memorium Nürnberger Prozesse" alongside the flags of the United States, Great Britain, and the Soviet Union.

A wide-angle view of Courtroom 600 in Nuremberg, Germany, featuring its iconic wood-paneled walls, ornate coffered ceiling, and the judicial bench beneath a large crucifix. The historic room is preserved with its dark marble door frames and bronze sculptures, serving as a memorial to the Nuremberg Trials.

On Foot Through Nuremberg’s Old Town

The bus driver dropped us off behind Nuremberg Castle, and the guide led us through the Old Town under difficult conditions. The Christmas market was taking place in large parts of the Old Town, and the alleys were correspondingly crowded.

Since a Christmas market tour was still on the program for the afternoon, we initially focused on the view of Nuremberg Castle, the Albrecht Dürer House, and the St. Sebald and St. Lawrence Churches (Lorenzkirche). We then went over the Fleischer Bridge back to the tour bus, which brought us to the ship.

A view through a stone archway of the historic Nuremberg Castle (Nürnberger Burg) featuring the stone Burgturm tower and a half-timbered building under a cloudy sky.

Free Time at the Christkindlmarkt

After lunch, the excursion to the Christkindlmarkt was on the agenda. Here, everyone could stroll alone at their own pace past the many stalls. We were first drawn to the Children’s Christmas with a carousel and child-friendly craft activities. After that, we went through the Market of the Sister Cities. Here we could discover and, of course, taste specialties from various regions.

A crowded scene at the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt features festive stalls with red-and-white striped roofs and evergreen garlands, set against the backdrop of the historic Frauenkirche. People in winter clothing walk across the cobblestone square, browsing the illuminated market stands filled with traditional holiday goods.

A festive evening scene in Nuremberg shows the Pegnitz river reflecting red and white Christmas lights from a riverside market and illuminated trees against the backdrop of historic buildings.

Our main focus, however, was strolling through the large Christkindlmarkt. Whether “3 im Weckla” (three sausages in a bun), gingerbread, or Feuerzangenbowle (burnt punch) – strictly speaking, culinary-wise, we missed nothing. The many stalls with Christmas gift ideas or decorations for one’s own home also repeatedly tempted us to stop and look. We had about 3 hours, and really only the cold and the thought of the farewell reception and the Gala Dinner drew us back to the ship.

A person's hand holds a "Drei im Weckla," a traditional Nuremberg street food featuring three small grilled bratwursts tucked into a crusty bread roll and topped with yellow mustard.

A view of the historic Nuremberg Altstadt at sunset, featuring traditional half-timbered houses and a pointed tower silhouetted against a pink and orange sky.

Festive Gala Dinner to Finish

The Gala Dinner was truly excellent. The presented dishes were compiled by star chef Johann Lafer especially for nicko cruises and are prepared accordingly by the chefs on the ships. My highlight was definitely the dessert!

Nachspeise Galaessen, Belvedere von nicko cruises

We spent the evening on the ship, which remained in Nuremberg.

Last Day: Disembarkation

On the last day of our Christmas river cruise, we had to place our packed suitcases in front of the cabin door by 7:30 AM. Previously, we had marked them with a colored ribbon that showed the crew that a bus transfer was to take us to Nuremberg Central Station.

Four Belvedere luggage tags from Nicko Cruises, featuring orange and purple checkered patterns, are laid out on a white fabric surface.

Conclusion and Journey Home

We enjoyed breakfast on board, and around 8:30 AM, the bus was in front of the ship. The suitcases were already on land, so we could load them into the bus.

A final wave – it was lovely! We enjoyed the time out on board and will definitely do it again.

The trip on the BELVEDERE took place as part of a press tour.