San Sebastián is located in the very north of Spain in the beautiful Basque Country and only around 20 kilometers from the French border. The city is also known by its Basque name Donostia and is one of the best-known vacation resorts in the Basque Country.
The bay of La Concha is home to one of the most famous and perhaps most beautiful city beaches in Europe. La Concha beach attracts not only holidaymakers but also locals all year round.
The outskirts of San Sebastián stretch between the rocky massifs of Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull. Depending on the tide, the beach has an average length of 1350 meters and is on average 40 meters wide. It is ideal for sunbathing and walking. At low tide, with a bit of luck, you can also find beach artists who conjure up beautiful pictures in the sand.
The location between the mountains protects the bay relatively well against the wind and high waves. This is the ideal place to go swimming with the whole family.
We enjoyed the first warm rays of sunshine on the beach at the beginning of May and took a break from strolling through the nearby old town. I particularly enjoyed the walk along the promenade towards Monte Igueldo.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Choir
The Basilica of Santa Maria del Coro is located in the beautiful old town of San Sebastián. This Roman Catholic church, which bears the title of a basilica minor, is one of the city’s most important sights.
The current basilica was built in the mid-18th century as a new Baroque building, but its origins go back a long way. Originally, a Romanesque church stood in its place, which was built by the kings of Navarre in the 12th and 13th centuries. Later, between 1522 and 1560, it was rebuilt in the Gothic style under the House of Habsburg. However, a tragic event fundamentally changed the building: in 1688, a powder magazine in the nearby castle of La Mota exploded, causing severe damage to the church. Reconstruction only began in 1743 according to the designs of architects Pedro Ignacio Lizardi and Miguel de Salazar and was completed in 1771. The basilica was awarded the title of basilica minor by Pope Paul VI in 1973.
The basilica impresses with its Baroque design, which also shows influences of Gothic, Churrigueresque (Spanish Baroque style characterized by extremely elaborate and overloaded decorations) and Classicism.
If you stand in front of the church, you will see a magnificent rococo portal. It shows the martyr figure of St. Sebastian, papal symbols and the coat of arms of the city of San Sebastián.
The main nave of the basilica measures 48 by 33 meters and is divided into three naves, which are supported by massive, 15-meter-high octagonal columns. The impressive star vaults reach a height of over 27 meters in the middle and give the interior an unbelievable expanse and grandeur. I felt really small in this huge church.
The main altar is dedicated to the Virgen del Coro, the patron saint of the city. The 40 cm high wooden carving of the Virgin, which dates back to the 15th or 16th century, captivates with its lovely expression and dark complexion. The altar ensemble is complemented by a painting of St. Sebastian, a work by the artist Luis Boccia from 1819.
I was particularly impressed by the choir at the foot of the church, which rises above a wide staircase. The ornate choir stalls and the historic Cavaillé-Coll organ from 1863 are true masterpieces that are rarely seen in churches.
Monte Urgull
If you really want to experience the city, you shouldn’t miss a visit to Monte Urgull.
Monte Urgull is an idyllic natural paradise in the middle of the city. The dense forests that stretch across the slopes of the mountain are a popular place for walkers and nature lovers.
In the 12th century, the hill was fortified to defend the town and the remains of the Castillo de la Mota fortress can still be seen today. The fortress is enthroned at the top. We made our way up there on foot. There are several well-signposted paths. The hike is not particularly challenging and takes around 20-30 minutes depending on the path you choose. What a lovely walk that took us to numerous beautiful viewpoints over the city.
Some of the places we discovered along the way:
La Concha bay with its famous beach.
The old town (Parte Vieja) with its red tiled roofs and narrow streets.
The small island of Isla de Santa Clara in the middle of the bay.
The Atlantic Ocean with its almost endless views as far as the horizon.
Sagrado Corazón
A particular highlight is the “Sagrado Corazón” statue of Christ, which stands on the fortress. At a height of 12.5 meters, it watches over San Sebastián and can be seen from afar. The statue was erected in 1950.
The remains of the fortress are also worth seeing. Inside the fortress is the Municipal History Museum of San Sebastián, which, like the fortress, can be visited free of charge. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the city’s past: from its foundation through the Napoleonic Wars to the modern metropolis it is today. Interactive exhibitions and historical artifacts make the visit an experience for young and old alike.
On the way back, we took a different route. This led over the northern slope and took us to a really exciting place. There is a military cemetery here for British soldiers who died fighting for the fortress during the Napoleonic Wars. In addition to the “normal” graves, the memorial is somewhat hidden and almost completely overgrown with moss on the slope. I only discovered some of the details at second glance, they were so overgrown.
Kursaal congress center
The Kursaal is architecturally very exciting. The modern congress center by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo is located at the mouth of the River Urumea and directly on the coast with a view of the Bay of Biscay.
I particularly liked the Kursaal in the evening, when the two cubic glass buildings are illuminated.
San Telmo Museum
The San Telmo Museum is located in the heart of the old town of Donostia-San Sebastián. As the oldest museum in the region, founded in 1902, it offers visitors a fascinating journey through the past and present of Basque society.
The museum’s headquarters is a former Dominican monastery from the 16th century, which was converted into a museum in 1932. This historic building is complemented by a modern extension. The museum’s location on the Plaza de Ignacio Zuloaga, right at the foot of Monte Urgull, makes it a central point of contact for visitors to the city.
The museum is divided into various departments, e.g. fine arts, history, photography and archaeology. The exhibitions include an impressive collection of works of art, historical artifacts and multimedia installations. On display are, for example, gravestones, baptismal fonts and paintings by painters such as El Greco, Rubens, Depièce and contemporary Basque artists. Weapons, coins, musical instruments and handicrafts from the Basque Country are also on display.
Miramar Palace and Gardens
The Miramar Palace is one of the landmarks of San Sebastián. It is located in the middle of the bay of La Concha.
The history of the Miramar Palace begins in 1887, when the regent Queen María Cristina, widow of King Alfonso XII, decided to build her summer residence in San Sebastián. The city had already been a popular summer destination for the Spanish royal family since the mid-19th century, after Queen Isabella II had discovered the coastal city for herself. María Cristina continued this tradition.
The palace was built on an extensive estate that the queen acquired from the family of the Count of Moriana. This site was previously home to the monastery of San Sebastián El Antiguo. The architects of the neo-Gothic structure created a building in the style of an English stately cottage, combining elegance and comfort with a rural character. The palace comprises three floors and a basement. The two lower floors were reserved for the royal family, while the mansard-like third floor was reserved for the staff. Details such as the Tudor arch decorated in relief at the entrance, the Habsburg stone coat of arms, the engraved date MDCCCXCII (1892) and the octagonal tower give the building a very special charm.
Construction lasted from 1888 to 1893 and the Prince’s Pavilion was added to the ensemble in 1920.
The gardens and park surrounding the palace were designed by French landscape architect Pierre Ducasse. Today, the estate covers an area of 34,136 square meters, including the extensive gardens, outbuildings such as the guardhouse, the stables and the reception building.
After the death of María Cristina in 1929, King Alfonso XIII inherited the palace. During the Second Republic, it was expropriated and became the property of the city of San Sebastián. Later, during the Franco dictatorship, it was returned to the Bourbons.
Finally, the City Council of San Sebastián acquired the property in 1972 for 102.5 million pesetas. Since 1985, the palace has been managed by a consortium made up of the Basque government, the Provincial Council of Gipuzkoa and the city of San Sebastián.
Following extensive restoration work, the Miramar Palace is now a building that is used for a variety of purposes. Its gardens, which extend over the former San Sebastián tramway tunnel, are open to the public. From here, visitors can enjoy an incomparable view of the bay of La Concha and the glittering sea. Inside the palace, which has more than nine magnificent salons, cultural and social events are regularly held.
Catedral del Buen Pastor
No building stands out in San Sebastián like the Buen Pastor Cathedral, the largest religious building in the city.
The Buen Pastor Cathedral was consecrated in 1897 and is the work of architect Manuel de Echave from San Sebastián. It has been a cathedral since 1953. It is characterized by filigree decorations, pointed arches and imposing architecture and is a wonderful example of the neo-Gothic architectural style.
The floor plan of the building is symmetrical and in the shape of a Latin cross, with three naves, a transept and a presbytery. At 75 meters high, the tower of the Buen Pastor Cathedral is an unmistakable landmark of San Sebastián. It can be seen from almost anywhere in the city.
The Buen Pastor Cathedral is not only impressive from the outside, but is also a true work of art on the inside. I was very impressed by the crypt and the magnificent high altar, which is dedicated to the Good Shepherd. Artistic statues, including those of Nuestra Señora del Carmen, San Antonio, Santa Teresa and El Sagrado Corazón, characterize the church.
The stained glass windows are a particular highlight. They bathe the interior in a fascinating play of light. Even when the sun is not shining directly through the windows, the play of colors is simply beautiful!
Monte Igueldo
Monte Igueldo is one of the two mountains that frame the famous Concha Bay. Not only is it the best vantage point in the city, there is also a small leisure park up there.
On our very first day in San Sebastián, we were drawn to Monte Igueldo despite the drizzle and low-hanging clouds. The small amusement park doesn’t open every day in May and we wanted to experience it. Fortunately, a few days later, in bright sunshine but with the amusement park closed, we had the opportunity to take more beautiful photos from the viewpoint towards the city.
Ride on the funicular
The journey up Monte Igueldo begins in an unforgettable way: with a ride on the Funicular de Igueldo funicular. The bottom station of the funicular is located at the western end of Concha Bay, near the Ondarreta beach section. You need a ticket, which you can buy directly at the bottom station.
The historic cable car has been in operation since 1912, making it the oldest cable car in the Basque Country. It takes just 3 minutes to reach the top station in old wooden carriages. During its journey, the funicular covers a distance of 312.5 meters and overcomes a height difference of 151 meters. It usually runs every 15 minutes and is normally open from 10:00 to 21:00.
What a great ride. It jolts and squeaks and every now and then you catch a glimpse of the surrounding area. We liked it.
Once at the top, you can enjoy one of the most beautiful views in Spain and stand in an amusement park that has also been in existence since 1912.
Amusement park on Monte Igueldo – pure nostalgia
The park is known for its nostalgic charm and its classic rides, which appeal to families and children in particular. I think the park has a retro feel to it, reminiscent of decades gone by. Some of the rides look a little outdated, but contribute to the nostalgic flair of the park.
There are carousels that are suitable for younger visitors. The historic wooden roller coaster runs along the cliffs and provides thrills with its combination of exciting curves and spectacular views. Very excitingly, there is a “brakeman” in the middle of the roller coaster train who is responsible for controlling the speed. You can enjoy the spectacular view of San Sebastián on a boat trip through an artificial canal.
A highlight: the view
From Monte Igueldo, you have a breathtaking panoramic view of the region. Despite the bad weather, I really enjoyed the view. There’s something special about seeing the mountains in the clouds. But admittedly, the view when the weather is fine and visibility is good cannot be beaten.
I was thrilled by the view of Concha Bay. The perfect crescent of golden sand, framed by the gentle hills of Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo, is particularly impressive from a bird’s eye view. The elegant buildings on the shore are also beautiful.
To the west, the wild coast of the Basque Country stretches out with its green hills and rugged cliffs. What a view!
Peine del Viento: San Sebastián’s magical work of art by the sea
The Peine del Viento (“crest of the wind”) is a work of art located at the western tip of Concha Bay.
It is the work of the famous Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002). He created this work of art in 1976 in collaboration with the architect Luis Peña Ganchegui. It consists of three monumental, rusty steel sculptures that are attached to the rocks right by the sea. Each of the sculptures weighs several tons and seems to bravely stand up to the force of the elements. The sculptures are designed to merge with their surroundings – the seawater, wind and salty air have changed their surface and made them a living part of the landscape. The name “Peine del Viento” reflects the idea that the sculptures “comb” the wind and give it a shape.
The Peine del Viento is a place designed to appeal to all the senses:
Sight: The rusty sculptures contrast beautifully with the blue waves of the Atlantic and the gray rocks. The colors and shapes change depending on the time of day and the weather – from glowing orange at sunset to dramatic silhouettes in stormy weather.
Listening: Below the sculptures are holes in the ground that are connected to the sea. When the waves crash against the rocks, the air is forced through the holes, creating loud, whistling noises. This “song of the wind” is characteristic of the place.
The feeling: The wind whistling over the rocks and the spray spraying into the air make for an intense experience of nature.
Smell: The salty sea air is omnipresent and underlines the proximity to the Atlantic.
The holes in the floor are the highlight of the artwork. During our visit, a visitor let his baseball cap fly high into the air with the help of the resulting air pressure.
Chillida-Leku Museum – even more works of art
The Chillida-Leku Museum exhibits works by the famous Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida (1924-2002). It is located in Hernani, just 15 minutes from San Sebastián, and offers a unique combination of art, nature and architecture. Some of his monumental works made of steel, granite and concrete can be found in the extensive garden.
At the center of the museum is the Zabalaga farmhouse, a restored building from the 16th century. It was redesigned by Chillida himself and now serves as an indoor exhibition space. Smaller works, models (maquettes) and archive material by the artist can be found here.
Construcción Vacía (Eraikin Hutsa)
The “Construcción Vacía” (in Basque: “Eraikin Hutsa”) is one of the most important works by Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza (1908-2003).
The sculpture has been located on the Paseo Nuevo in San Sebastián, at the foot of Monte Urgull and near the entrance to the bay of La Concha, since 2002. It was placed there after being purchased by San Sebastián City Council, replacing a previous monument on the site. The placement of the sculpture in this location is symbolic: it stands at the interface between the city, the sea and nature and is washed by the waves of the Atlantic.
I like it very much and although it fits in perfectly with Chillida’s works visually, no visitors come here.
The sculpture consists of a combination of vertical and horizontal surfaces that are connected to each other and form an open space. This construction made of Corten steel reaches a height of 6 meters.
Aquarium
The San Sebastián Aquarium is one of the most modern in Europe. Visitors can discover around 200 different species of marine animals here. A tunnel that allows a 360-degree view into a shark tank is particularly popular.
The visit is not only a highlight in the city in rainy weather.
Zurriola Beach
San Sebastián’s second city beach is located directly behind the Kursaal. There are fewer sun worshippers and bathers here. Due to its location, the beach is less protected from the wind and is ideal for water sports. Surfers were particularly active here and we were able to admire their skills.
If you would like to try surfing yourself, you can also attend courses or hire a board here.
Old town of San Sebastián
A stroll through the old town of San Sebastián was an unforgettable experience for us. Many streets are only open to cars at certain times and are otherwise reserved for pedestrians.
Numerous restaurants and small cafés tempt you with their offers. Here you can eat tapas and drink wine.
Plaza de la Constitución
Strolling through the narrow streets, we also came to the Plaza de la Constitución. This central square is surrounded by buildings that revealed something amazing at second glance. The balconies are all marked with numbers. I puzzled for a while until I finally came up with the solution. Bullfights used to take place in this square. The balconies served as stands for the spectators and the numbers indicated where their booked balcony was located. It’s nice that the lettering has been preserved.
Iglesia de San Vicente
The Iglesia de San Vicente is one of the most important historical and architectural landmarks of San Sebastián (Donostia) and is also located in the Parte Vieja (Old Town).
It is considered to be the oldest church in the city, with origins dating back to the early 16th century. The church was built in the Basque Gothic style. The exterior façade of the church contains a remarkable sculpture by the famous Basque artist Jorge Oteiza. Inside, the church houses an impressive reredos (altarpiece).
Tabakalera
The former tobacco factory building now houses a center for contemporary art and a hotel.
We spent a few nights in the hotel. The room was quite simply furnished and had a skylight and a very high window strip. Unfortunately, it was not possible to look out.
The Tabakalera building is arranged around a central courtyard. Some areas can be visited free of charge, but not the actual exhibitions. The roof terrace is particularly beautiful (we visited it during an event), from where you can look out over the city.
Visitor information
Getting There
Arrival
By plane
San Sebastián has its own airport. It is located around 20 kilometers from the city center and is easily accessible by bus from the city. Almost all flights from this airport are domestic, for example to Madrid or Barcelona.
A little further away, but with international flights, is Bilbao airport. It can be reached by bus from San Sebastián in around 1.5 hours.
Another airport is located in Biarritz, France (45 kilometers away). International connections are also offered here. There is a regular bus service from San Sebastián to the airport.
By train
San Sebastián has good rail connections. The city is served by two different providers.
Euskotren operates a narrow-gauge railroad that connects San Sebastián with Bilbao and other coastal towns. In addition, a train also runs in the direction of France (Hendaye), providing a connection to the SNCF rail network.
RENFE is the second provider that serves the city. For example, they offer trains to Madrid, Barcelona and the smaller towns with local trains in the surrounding area.
There are plans to connect San Sebastián to the Spanish high-speed rail network in 2030.
By car
Getting to San Sebastián by car is straightforward.
The city can be reached via the highways N-1 (Madrid-Irun), AP-8 (Bilbao-Irun) and A-63 (Paris-Irun).
By bus
San Sebastián can be reached by bus from various locations. The central bus station “Estación DONOSTIA Geltokia” is located underground near the train station.
There are numerous national and international connections offered by various providers.
On the way in...
On the way in...
By bus
Dbus is the name of the bus service provider in San Sebastián. The route network is quite extensive, and there are also various night bus routes (running on Fridays, Saturdays and the night before public holidays). The buses are equipped with low floors and ramps for easy access, reserved seats for people with reduced mobility and facilities for assistance dogs.
There are three ways to buy tickets:
QR tickets: these can be purchased via cell phone and are available for different time periods such as 30 minutes, 24 hours or 48 hours.
MUGI card: A rechargeable card that offers reduced fares and can be used for multiple journeys.
San Sebastián Tourist Card: Offers a fixed number of rides and additional discounts at local attractions.
By bike
San Sebastián has more than 77 kilometers of cycle paths.
By cab
Cabs operate around the clock in the city. They do not usually stop on the street, so it is advisable to use cab ranks or request the service by telephone.
With the funicular
A funicular, the Funicular de Igueldo, has been running up Monte Igueldo since 1912.
Best time to travel
Best time to travel
Spring (March – May)
Late spring is ideal for sightseeing as the temperatures are pleasant and the likelihood of rain decreases. Maximum temperatures rise from around 16°C in March to 20°C in May. The lowest temperatures are between 7°C and 12°C . The chance of rain in spring is variable with average rainfall of 90 – 110 mm per month.
Summer (June – August)
The highest temperatures are between 22°C and 25°C, with night temperatures of 14°C to 16°C . Summer is the driest season, with rainfall between 60 and 90 mm per month.
Fall (September – November)
Rainfall increases, with monthly averages of 100-140 mm. Temperatures drop from 23°C in September to 15°C in November.
Winter (December – February)
Maximum temperatures are around 13°C, with night-time temperatures of around 6°C. Winter is wet, with rainfall between 11 and 150 mm per month.
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