Madrid Atocha: waiting for the train under palm trees

With coffee in hand, we sit on a bench and look up at the palm trees and … no, not the sky. We’re looking at the huge vault in the old Madrid Atocha station. What an unusual place to wait for a train…

Madrid has two long-distance train stations. Charmartín station is located in the north. This is where visitors to Madrid first arrive when taking the train from the airport to the city.
Our tip: It’s worth visiting the free exhibition of various metro cars in the station.

In the center of the city at Plaza Emperador Carlos V is the second long-distance train station: Madrid Atocha. It is one of the city’s most important transport hubs and has probably the most unusual station concourse I have ever seen.

The birth of a station

In 1851, the Estación de Mediodía was built as a terminus station on the site where Madrid Atocha station is located today. The current station was built after a fire.

From 1888-1893, the architect Alberto de Palacio y Elissague created a large station concourse with a roof structure made of cast iron and steel. The architect had prominent support: Gustave Eiffel and Henry Saint James assisted him in the development of the building. The roof construction caused a sensation, as it was a novelty at the time. The steel and glass construction was manufactured in Belgium and brought to Madrid in individual parts. It was assembled there.

When Charmartín station opened in the 1980s, Atocha lost its importance. It was only with the opening of the Madrid-Sevilla high-speed line and the decision to run these trains to Atocha that the station became increasingly involved in rail traffic again.

It soon became apparent that the station’s capacity was no longer sufficient and a new and larger platform hall was built. The old station concourse was no longer needed, the tracks were removed and a tropical palm garden was created.

View of the palm garden

The palm garden was the most surprising part of Madrid Atocha station for me. Over 7,000 plants grow on an area of around 4,000 square meters. It’s almost like visiting a botanical garden, because if you look closely you will discover countless different species. There are sources that speak of 250 – 400 different species.

The plants find ideal growing conditions in the former station concourse. The hall is 152 meters long, 48 meters wide and 27 meters high and is made of steel and glass. The glass roof makes it pleasantly warm even in winter, even with little sunlight, and the humidity is relatively constant.

There are small pools of water where turtles swim and birds chirp in the trees. A bit like paradise, only much more crowded. The beautiful hall, where you can also buy something to eat and drink in certain areas, is very busy with waiting train passengers. We also waited here for our train and watched the visitors. It’s more of a leisurely stroll, with none of the hustle and bustle of a train station. For us, an ideal place to wait, as there is free WLAN access and good coffee!

The train is leaving!

Most visitors to the “old” station area are waiting for a train. To get to the platforms, you have to go to the “new” area of the station. Today’s newer station consists of two areas – one above ground and one underground. There are a total of 24 tracks from which over 100,000 million passengers travel each year.

The above-ground section, which was also built as a terminus station, is mainly used by high-speed trains. The underground section is a through station. From here, tunnels run through the city, which are used by regional and suburban trains, but also by the AVE with its high-speed trains.

The Spanish railroad company RENFE is one of the main users of the station and offers numerous connections with different train categories. AVE, AVLO, Alvia and Intercity trains run to Barcelona, Málaga, Cádiz, Jerez de la Fronterra, Córdoba, Granada and Marseille, for example. There are also trains operated by Ouigo España and Iryo.

Of course, travelers will also find ticket offices, waiting rooms, currency exchange facilities, ATMs, luggage storage, free Wi-Fi, a VIP lounge zone, a huge shopping center and numerous dining options.

We like to use this station as a starting point for exciting journeys through Spain.

Visitor information

Address

Glorieta del Emperador Carlos V, s/n 28045
Madrid