The Cathedral of Santa María la Real de Pamplona stands proudly in the narrow streets of the old town of Pamplona in the Navarra region. After entering through a gate, a few steps lead into the church building.
Festively dressed visitors stood outside the church when we visited. The entrance was decorated with flowers and everyone was waiting for the bride and groom. There wasn’t much time before the wedding ceremony began, but we were allowed to visit the church anyway.
History of the building
The origins of the Cathedral of Santa María la Real de Pamplona date back to Roman times, when a Roman temple stood on the same site. In the early Middle Ages, this was replaced by a Christian church. This was built in the course of the Reconquista and the revival of Christianity in northern Spain. In the 10th century, the Moors destroyed the building during their invasion of Spain.
Between 1100 and 1127, construction began on a new church in the Romanesque style. This church was part of a monastery and developed into the religious center of the Kingdom of Navarre. The nave was completed in the 12th century and served as an important spiritual and cultural center for almost two centuries. Some of the capitals of the portal and the cloister are still preserved from this building. These can be viewed in the Museum of the Comunidad Foral de Navarra.
Gothic reconstruction
A devastating earthquake in 1391 almost completely destroyed the Romanesque cathedral. Only the façade, the head end and the cloister escaped the catastrophe.
The religious community needed a new church. This was the impetus for the construction of today’s Gothic cathedral, which was begun at the end of the 14th century under the supervision of Charles III of Navarre. Construction continued into the 16th century and also incorporated the monastery, which had not been destroyed.
The new main façade was built around 1783 in the neoclassical style. In the following years, the building was extended to include a number of Baroque elements, including the magnificent high altar reredos and the sacristy.
Extensive restoration work was carried out in the 20th century. Today, the Cathedral of Santa María la Real de Pamplona is part of Spain’s cultural heritage and a popular destination for tourists and pilgrims on the Way of St. James to Santiago de Compostella.
The role of the cathedral in the city’s history
The Cathedral of Santa María la Real de Pamplona has always played a central role in the history of the city of Pamplona and the Kingdom of Navarre. It is still the spiritual center of the Archbishopric of Pamplona and has served as the main church of the diocese for centuries.
It was once the scene of numerous religious ceremonies. The coronation and burial of the kings of Navarre took place here. The kings of Navarre took their oath in front of the high altar of the cathedral, thus strengthening their legitimacy as rulers and consolidating their power.
Important figures such as García IV, Sancho VI, Theobald I, Henry I, Philip III, Charles II and Charles III were buried in the church.
Features of the Cathedral of Santa María la Real de Pamplona
The cathedral has a length of around 100 meters and a width of around 50 meters. These dimensions include the nave, the side aisles, the choir and the chapels.
The nave extends over two floors and the large windows are particularly striking, allowing plenty of daylight into the church. I am particularly struck by the simple design of the surfaces. The walls and columns are almost unadorned, as is typical of Navarrese Gothic architecture.
The chancel
A special feature of the chancel is the forged grille, which was created by Guillermo de Evernat in 1517. This ornate lattice separates the chancel from the rest of the cathedral and gives it a special dignity and seclusion. There is also a Romanesque statue of the Virgin Mary made of silver-plated wood in the chancel. This statue stands under a neo-Gothic canopy.
I find the Renaissance-style choir stalls particularly beautiful. These were made between 1531 and 1541 by several artists from Navarre. The choir stalls are richly decorated and show the craftsmanship of the time.
Sarcophagus
An Alabasta sarcophagus stands in front of the chancel. It was made in individual parts in royal workshops between 1411 and 1420. After they arrived in Pamplona, they were then put together.
Charles III of Navarre and his wife Eleanor of Castile are buried in this sarcophagus. Charles III of Navarre was also known as Charles the Noble and was one of the most important kings of Navarre.
The sarcophagus is artistically designed. In the lower section, there are mourning figures made of alabaster on all four sides and dogs sitting at the feet of the larger-than-life figures.
The Gothic cloister of the monastery
There is a direct entrance between the church and the cloister, which is used by visitors today.
Those who enter the monastery area because they live or work there choose the path via a beautiful spiral staircase from the 17th century.
Our path led us into the impressive cloister of the cathedral, which dates back to 1472 and is a prime example of Gothic architecture, characterized by its elegant pointed arches and intricate stonework.
In the refectory, you can admire the Gothic Navas de Tolosa reredos. This dates from around 1440 and is made of multi-colored decorated wood.
There is a water basin in one corner of the cloister. It is intended to commemorate the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa.
The “La María” bell
The largest working bell in Spain, known as “La María”, hangs in the north tower of the cathedral. Due to its enormous size, this bell cannot be rung traditionally. Instead, the clapper, which weighs around 300 kilograms, is swung from side to side
Occidens exhibition
The cathedral also houses the Occidens exhibition. The exhibition is based on the book “Qu’est-ce que l’Occident?” by French philosopher Philippe Nemo. It illustrates the Western world as a structure that rests on four pillars: Athens, Rome, Jerusalem and the Germanic spirit.
These pillars represent the philosophical, legal, religious and cultural foundations of the West. You can experience a combination of historical artifacts, modern technology and interactive elements in the exhibition.
Visitor information
Address
Dormitalería
31001 Pamplona – Iruña
Opening hours
Museum
End of October-End of March
Monday-Saturday: 10.30 a.m. – 5 p.m.
Sunday: closed
End of March – end of October
Monday-Saturday: 10.30 am – 7 pm
Sunday: closed
Bell tower
daily 11.30 a.m.
There is only a limited number of places
Entrance fees
Museum
Adults: 5,-€
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