Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza

Zaragoza offers its visitors some really unexpected places. The Aljafería is certainly one of the surprises during our visit. The complex is the only surviving example of a large building of Hispano-Islamic architecture from the Taifa era.

The Mudejar remains of the palace were declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2001 as part of the ‘Mudejar architecture of Aragon’.

Sightseeing in Zaragoza – the Aljafería

The Aljafería is not located directly in the center of the old town. However, it can be easily reached on foot in around 10 minutes.

Origins and Islamic rule

As early as the late 9th century, a residential tower stood on the site where the Aljafería of Zaragoza stands today. The tower is said to have inspired the writer Antonio Garcia Gutiérrez to write a story about a troubadour, which was adapted into Verdi’s opera. Remains of the tower still exist and have been incorporated into today’s architecture.

The Aljafería was built in the second half of the 11th century on the initiative of Al-Muqtadir, the second monarch of the Banu Hud dynasty. The palace stood outside the city walls of Zaragoza and served as the summer residence of the kings of Saraqusta.

The inner courtyard with its surrounding walkways formed the core of the complex, which was surrounded by a wall with semi-circular towers.

Christian rule and the Reconquista

After the reconquest of Saragossa in 1118 by Alfonso I of Aragón, the Aljafería became the residence of the Aragonese and Catholic kings of Aragón.

The rulers had it renovated and extended in the style of Mudejar architecture. Mudejar architecture is a unique mixture of Christian and Islamic style elements that is widespread in this region of Spain.

Conversion to a military fortress

In 1593, under the rule of Philip II, the Aljafería was converted from a palace that had previously been used for civilian purposes into a military fortress. The master builders erected an outer wall with a bulwark and a moat around the existing palace. These have been preserved to this day.

Further military conversions and extensions followed over the years, which were mainly driven forward by Charles III. Several barracks blocks were also built in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Restoration and current use

The Aljafería suffered a great deal of damage over the centuries, particularly during the sieges of Zaragoza in the War of Independence. A comprehensive restoration began in the second half of the 20th century to restore the palace to its original splendor.

The Aljafería is a listed building and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2001, together with other buildings of Mudejar architecture in Aragon.

Since 1987, the Aljafería has served as the seat of the regional parliament of Aragón. The assembly hall can also be visited during the tour, provided no events are taking place there.

Tour of the Aljafería

It is not far on foot from the train station to the Aljafería of Zaragoza. We reach the back of the building through a small green area. From here you can already get an idea of how large and mighty the fortress must have once looked to arriving travelers in front of the old town. Today it is still a mighty building, but it is surrounded by several large high-rise buildings. Quite a stark difference between the old and new buildings.

On your own or with a guided tour?

The path leads directly along the moat until we see the small ticket booth in front of the entrance. We had considered buying tickets online beforehand. However, this was not possible for a visit without a guided tour. But the crowds don’t seem to be so big that you would be turned away. So it is enough to buy the tickets on site.

Guided tours of the Aljafería are offered at certain times. However, these are mostly in Spanish and only very rarely in English. We decided to walk through the grounds on our own. We could have downloaded an app and obtained some information about the rooms. I preferred to go back to the “paper” version and read the information leaflets we found on site.

But before we could really get started, we had to go through the security gate. After all, this is where the regional parliament meets and certain precautions are necessary.

What can you see in the Aljafería of Zaragoza?

I find the first courtyard we enter quite unspectacular. However, there is a striking façade that points to a church. The former church rooms behind it now house a library and a small souvenir store.

I was impressed by the adjoining second courtyard, which today bears the name Patio of St. Isabel. It reminds me a lot of the palace complexes in Granada or Córdoba. Here, too, there are orange trees in a green courtyard. Water ripples in a channel and makes the climate in the courtyard seem pleasantly fresh.

The courtyard is surrounded by arcades. The northern arcades, which are located in front of the former state rooms, are particularly beautiful. Beautiful decorations on the columns transported me to an Arabian palace with its Moorish architecture. There is even a small prayer room.

From the outside area, a signposted tour now leads to the rooms in the fortress. The state rooms, which were built by the Catholic Monarchs from 1488 onwards on the newly constructed upper floor above the old Moorish state rooms, are designed in the style of Mudejar architecture.

The palace consists of an open staircase, a gallery, a series of halls and is actually crowned by the large throne room. Unfortunately, the tour is laid out in exactly the opposite order. I was particularly impressed by the throne room with its beautiful ceiling. It is carved and decorated with colorful and golden details.

Surrounding the hall are smaller rooms. Here, too, the well-preserved and beautiful ceilings immediately catch the eye. They are made of gilded and multi-colored wood. Most visitors walk rather carelessly across the floor coverings of the small rooms. These are still original and made of small tiles and tiles from Muel.

Seat of parliament

The Aljafería in Zaragoza now houses the seat of the regional parliament as well as the museum area.

Following the adoption of the Spanish constitution in 1978 and Aragon’s autonomous status in August 1982, the first regional elections were held and the first regional parliament was elected.

We were able to visit the modern assembly hall and on the way out of the building we passed the gallery of former presidents of parliament.

Visitor information

Address

Calle de los Diputados, s/n.
50071 Zaragoza