Admittedly, it is quite sporty, but it is feasible to explore Zaragoza in one day. We went on foot and discovered the most beautiful places.
Our starting point was the train station in Zaragoza, the place where most visitors arrive in the city. For us, it was also the place where our hotel (Eurostars Zaragoza) was located.
The first stop on our tour, the Palacio de la Aljafería, is around 20 minutes’ walk from the train station. If you don’t want to walk, you can get there by cab (takes about 5 minutes) or bus (line 34 or 51).
La Aljafería: Fortress and seat of parliament
As we walk towards the fortress, we realize how big it is. Thick, massive walls and a moat surround the complex.
Tickets can be purchased on site. Only those who would like to take part in a guided tour (offered almost exclusively in Spanish) should book their ticket in advance. During the signposted tour, it is possible to obtain information via small cards on display. An app (QR code at the ticket office) provides further information.
La Aljafería is an important historical monument in Zaragoza. It is an example of Islamic and Mudejar architecture and has a history that stretches from Muslim rule to its current use as the seat of the regional parliament of Aragon.
La Aljafería was built in the second half of the 11th century as a fortified palace for the Muslim kings of the Taifa of Zaragoza and served as a leisure residence. After the reconquest of Zaragoza in 1118 by Alfonso I of Aragón, the complex became the residence of the Christian kings of Aragón. In the 15th century, the Catholic Monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand had a new palace built in the Mudejar style. In 1593, the palace was converted into a military fortress. Today, La Aljafería houses the regional parliament of Aragon, the Cortes of Aragon, and is used as a museum.
Fancy more information? We have written your article about the “Aljafería Palace in Zaragoza”, which goes into more detail about a visit.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Portillo
After the visit, we made our way across the Plaza del Portillo. The walk to the historic center takes about 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can of course take a cab or bus (line 32 or 33). However, you will then miss out on some of the “smaller” highlights along the way, such as the Church of Our Lady of Portillo.
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Portillo is one of the many Catholic churches in Zaragoza.
The church is a baroque building with three naves, whereby the central nave is wider than the side ones. The interior is in the purest Aragonese Baroque style.
There is a great view of the church from the Plaza del Portillo.
Plaza de Toros de Zaragoza „La Misericordia“
It is only a few steps from the church to the Plaza de Toros. This is where the city’s huge bullring is located.
The Plaza de Toros de Zaragoza is the second oldest bullring in Spain and an important landmark in the city of Zaragoza. It was opened in 1764 and offers space for 10,072 spectators. The current appearance of the arena is the result of several renovations, most recently in 2002. Today, the arena can be completely covered with a sail roof.
Bullfights still take place regularly in Zaragoza. The bullfighting season usually begins in mid-March and ends in mid-October, with the fights normally starting at 5:00 pm and may be postponed depending on the time of year.
We didn’t stop for long and just took a few photos from the outside.
Iglesia de San Pablo
This church is one of the most important churches in Zaragoza. Originally, there was a former Romanesque pilgrimage chapel on this site. The church was built in the Gothic-Mudéjar style between the late 13th and early 14th centuries. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001, as part of the Mudejar architecture of Aragón.
In addition to the octagonal brick tower, I find the rather nested structure very interesting. I have read that the somewhat flatter parts were added later in the course of conversions and extensions.
There is a charge to visit the church. The high altar made of gilded, polychrome wood with the image of St. Paul, which was designed by the artist Damián Forment around 1515, is particularly beautiful.
Mercado Central
Our next stop invites us to take a short snack break. We reach the central market of Zaragoza. This is also known as Lanuza.
The building was designed by an Aragonese architect in iron construction and was completed in 1903. It replaced the city’s old traditional market square.
From the outside, the central market looks very impressive. In addition to the iron structure, glass and stone dominate the picture. When you enter the market, you notice that it consists of a nave and two side aisles like a church, separated by iron pillars. High up, almost under the ceiling, I notice tiles depicting animals, among other things. Later, I discover the pictures again on an information board and can look at them in peace without straining my neck.
The market itself offers numerous stalls with typical products ranging from fruit to fish.
Monumento a César Augusto
As we step out of the market hall, the first thing we notice is the statue of Caesar Augustus. He was the founder of the city of Caesaraugusta and the first emperor of Rome. Caesarauguste is the old name of Saragossa.
The statue was a gift from Mussolini to Saragossa. The original is in the Vatican Museum in Rome.
Murallas Romanas de Zaragoza
Directly behind the statue are the remains of the Roman wall of Saragossa. It protected ancient Caesaraugusta at the beginning of the Christian era. The fortification once consisted of 120 defensive towers and surrounded an area of around 44 hectares. It rose 10 meters high and had an impressive width of 7 meters.
When the city was under Muslim rule in the 10th century, one of the governors built a palace right next to the wall. Today, only the Torreón de la Zuda remains.
The city wall existed until the 14th century. As the city’s population grew, there was no longer enough space within the city walls and they lost their function. The city council finally granted permission to use the material from the city wall to build houses. As a result, today you can find stones from the wall and bricks typical of Mudejar art in the city’s beautiful Renaissance houses.
Today, very little of the city wall remains. I think you can get an idea of how mighty the walls once were just from these few remains.
Torreón de la Zuda
If you walk along the remains of the city wall, you will reach a small tower. The Torreón de la Zuda dates back to the city’s Muslim period. Today it houses the city’s tourist office.
You should visit the tower not only for the information about the city that you can obtain here. If you climb the steps in the tower, you will reach a free viewing platform on the top floor. Perhaps not so nice for photographers, as the windows are all glazed, but it’s great for enjoying the view over the city. From the tower, we were able to see the old Roman city wall from above and look over the rooftops towards the most famous church, El Pilar. We visited this later on in our tour.
Church of San Juan de los Panetes
There is a church right next to the tower. The church of San Juan de los Panetes is a Baroque church with elements reminiscent of Gothic and the Mudejar style.
The building was constructed in 1725 to replace the destroyed church of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem. I find the octagonal tower particularly beautiful. The influence of the Maltese church can be clearly seen here. The symbol of this order is the Maltese cross with its eight points. If you take a closer look, you will notice that the tower is leaning. A fault in the foundations is responsible for this. The influence of the Maltese can also be seen in the church. There are numerous Maltese crosses on the floor.
Iglesia de Santa Isabel de Portugal
Following our route, we now continue to the Plaza del Justicia. The church of Santa Isabel de Portugal is located here. It is also known as San Cayetano. The church was built at the end of the 17th century in honor of the Infanta of Aragon.
For me, this church is one of the most beautiful churches in the city from the outside. The baroque façade is artistically designed in alabaster. Unfortunately, the church is only open very rarely. So if you’re lucky, for example because a wedding, christening or exhibition is taking place, you should definitely take the opportunity.
The baroque altarpiece from the late 18th century and the beautiful domes are particularly beautiful. The emblems of the Aragon Round Shield, actually a political symbol, can also be found in the church.
Plaza de San Felipe
Perhaps one of the most original squares in the city is the Plaza de San Felipe. The square is surrounded by beautiful houses, the church of San Felipe and the Pablo Gargallo Museum, where you can sit in street cafés and enjoy the flair of the city.
Two large equestrian statues stand in front of the museum. These are works by the artist Gargallo, which were designed in 1929 for the Olympic Stadium in Barcelona. The work entitled “Olympic Welcome” shows athletes on horseback. The artistic works make you want to explore the museum.
The Museo Pablo Gargallo has been in the city since 1985. It exhibits works by the artist, some of which have been donated by his heirs. On display are sculptures, drawings and bibliographical documents that document his life and works. The museum also shows modern and contemporary sculptures in special exhibitions.
Fancy an unusual perspective? Then the statue of the seated boy in the middle of the square is just the place for you. The statue is not very old (late last century) and was made by the artist Gimeno llop. The boy is sitting there and looking at the New Tower on the square.
El Tubo
It was now time for lunch on our city tour of Zaragoza. The path leads us into a labyrinth of small streets, known locally as El Tubo. The area is known for its countless bars and restaurants, which are only too popular with tourists and the occasional local. Here you are spoiled for choice between high-priced menus and small tapas at quite fair prices in small bars.
We have eaten in various bars here and can really recommend a visit. As almost every bar here has its own specialty, you should only try a little at a time and eat your way from “tapas bar to tapas bar”.
After lunch, we continued on to the Roman theater in Zaragoza. It was built in the first half of the 1st century, at the time when Zaragoza was still called Caesaraugusta.
The Roman theater had a capacity of 6,000 spectators. A huge building that a good 1/3 of the city’s population could visit.
It was not until 1972 that the remains of the building were discovered during excavations. The walls and some of the well-preserved seats were gradually uncovered. Since the museum building was completed, you can not only find out more about Caesaraugusta and the theater in an interactive exhibition, but also discover the theater on a tour.
In our article “A Roman theater in Zaragoza” you can find out more about the paid visit and whether it is really worth it!
Museo de los Faroles y Rosario de Cristal
Just a few steps away, in a church, is one of the exhibitions that I have never seen anywhere else. There is an entrance fee. If you buy the combined ticket for the 6 most important sights in Zaragoza, you can visit the exhibition.
In the Museo de los Faroles y Rosario de Cristal there are lanterns and floats that are carried through the city every year in a church procession. These are beautiful lead glass lanterns and floats, the likes of which I have never seen before.
I particularly liked the large ship made of lead glass. The wonderful work was illuminated from the inside and outshone all the other exhibits for me.
For me, the tip in Zaragoza that you shouldn’t miss!
Catedral del Salvador – La SEO
Our tour continues to the Plaza de la Seo, an extension of the Plaza del Pilar. There are some interesting places here that could easily be included in a tour of Zaragoza. However, with only 24 hours in Zaragoza, this will hardly be possible. The visits to the Museo del Foro Romano de Caesaraugusta and the Museo Diocesano do require a little time.
Our main focus here was a visit to the Catedral del Salvador, the church that is also known simply as La SEO. The church building is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an example of Mudejar art in Zaragoza.
The church was built from the end of the 12th century on the site where the Roman forum of Caesaraugusta and later the main mosque of Zaragoza once stood. Numerous additions, renovations and alterations reveal a great mix of styles today. From Gothic and Renaissance elements to Baroque, everything is represented.
There is a charge to visit the church. It is worth taking the ticket here, which allows you to visit 6 of the city’s most important sights. One of the sights is located right inside the church – the Museo de Tapices.
Museo de Tapices
A door in the church leads to three large halls, which are now used by the Museo de Tapices. The museum exhibits tapestries from different eras.
Tapestries were very popular with the nobility for a long time. They were often not just “simple” wall hangings but elaborately designed tapestries with beautiful pictures. The clergy also liked this art and so they also decorated their rooms with them. The museum in Zaragoza displays part of the collection of these exceptionally well-preserved carpets.
After visiting the church, we cross a street and stand in what is probably the most famous square in the city – the Plaza del Pilar.
In Caesaraugusta’s time, the forum was located here. Today it is the square of the cathedrals and is still the religious, political and social center of the city. The rectangular square is the largest pedestrian square in Europe, a place of pilgrimage to the Virgin Mary and a meeting place for residents and visitors alike.
You can spend a long time in this large and really impressive place. There is so much to see: Monuments, sculptures, churches, fountains and some imposing buildings.
On the west side, for example, is the Hispanidad fountain. It has the shape of Latin America and the three marble blocks are supposed to represent the ships of Columbus. In the small square behind the fountain is the church of San Juan de los Panetes with its characteristic leaning tower, which we have already seen on our tour.
Another very characteristic building is the town hall. It was built in the second half of the 20th century. In front of the entrance are two sculptures by the Aragonese sculptor Pablo Serrano. They depict Saint Valerius (the patron saint of the city) and a guardian angel.
For me, the two most impressive places in El Pilar square are a sculpture monument and the Basílica del Pilar, which are our next stops on our tour of the city.
Monumento a Francisco de Goya
It is astonishing that Zaragoza did not have a monument to this brilliant painter, who was born here, until 1960. There are said to have been countless attempts, but none of the ideas were realized. It was only when the Banco Zaragozano decided to hold a competition for a monument to mark its 50th anniversary that the project gained momentum. Even though the 14 ideas submitted were of the desired quality, the bank was apparently not satisfied and declared the competition invalid. They commissioned a Catalan sculptor with the task.
There is now a bronze statue of Goya and two figures of the Majos in El Pilar square. I really like the figures and they are ideal as a photo spot.
Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar
Certainly the most important and most striking building in Plaza El Pilar is the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, which is only called El Pilar by the inhabitants of the city.
The church can be visited free of charge, even though it is listed on the signs for the combined entrance ticket for the 6 sights. There are two entrances to the church. If you are standing in front of the church, the left-hand entrance is often locked. Here you enter the area where church services are held. The right-hand entrance is open to visitors.
According to legend, in the year 40, the Virgin Mary appeared to the apostle Santiago (St. James), who was in the city at the time. She gave him a pillar (pilar) so that he could build a temple. This pillar, which gave its name to the church, still stands in the church today with an image of the Virgin. All church extensions were built around it.
The interior of the basilica is very impressive. I particularly liked the Santa Capilla. This chapel is one of the masterpieces of Spanish Baroque.
Don’t forget to look up to the ceiling of the church building. There is a beautiful fresco by Goya in one of the domes.
Museo Pilarista
There is a small museum in the El Pilar Basilica. There is an entrance fee (included in the ticket for the 6 sights).
The museum consists of just one room, in which there are numerous showcases with beautiful works of art. These are part of the church treasury, which has “accumulated” over the years from donations and purchases.
Our tip: If you have an admission ticket, you should definitely visit the exhibition. However, I wouldn’t pay extra for a ticket.
Torre de San Francisco de Borja
The city tour ends with a visit to the best viewpoint in the city. The Torre de San Francisco de Borja or Torre del Pilar is one of the towers of El Pilar Cathedral. The entrance is at the back of the church.
The elevator and some stairs take you to a height of 80 meters. From up there, you have a 360-degree view of the city. A fantastic view from which you can discover one or two of the sights we visited during our 24 hours in Zaragoza. For us, a successful end to a varied day in Zaragoza.
Tip for the sunset: Puente de Piedra
The Puente de Piedra is the oldest bridge in Zaragoza and crosses the Ebro.
A bridge is said to have stood on this exact spot as early as the 1st century. This provided access to the city. In 1401, work began on the bridge as we see it today in Zaragoza. It took almost 40 years before the 225-metre-long river crossing could be inaugurated. The bronze lions that guard the bridge have not been around for that long. They have only been sitting at their guard post since 1991.
In the middle of the bridge is a wonderful vantage point from which you can look across the river to the city. We were told that you can experience a great sunset here.
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