The mighty Rock of Gibraltar stands there – at first glance, you would never guess that there is a huge tunnel system here. Some of the tunnels of Gibraltar are still a well-kept government secret.
The Rock of Gibraltar is a mighty cliff. It consists mainly of limestone, but also has carbonate deposits. These conditions were ideal for tunnel construction. This began over 200 years ago and was mainly driven forward by the British army. The later additional use of cement created a stable system.
Over the years, around 55 kilometers of tunnels have been built. Considering that only 6.7 km² of land exists for this purpose, the resulting tunnel system must have been very branched and built at different heights. In comparison, the road network of Gibraltar is only about half as long as the tunnel system of Gibraltar.
The history of the tunnels began at the end of the 18th century and new passages were constantly being built until 1968. Many areas are still closed today, but visitors are now able to visit two very different areas: Great Siege Tunnel and World War II Tunnel.
Start of tunnel construction in 1782
After the British captured Gibraltar in 1704, they began to secure the area. Over many years, they built extensive defenses consisting mainly of trenches and protective walls. In many areas, they took their cue from earlier defenses, which had been built by the Moors and Spaniards.
During the Great Siege, the army began to build the first artificial tunnel in 1782 on the initiative of a sergeant-major. This was an attempt to reach a specific position on the north face of the rock that could not be reached by any other means. A new artillery battery was to be installed there to close a blind spot in the line of defense.
While the tunnel was still being driven, the planners decided to cut an opening in the cliff. This was to be used for ventilation and it quickly became apparent that the opening was also ideal from a strategic point of view.
It was not until the end of the siege that the tunnel construction reached the desired point. Now that they had some time, they created a large hall in which a wider firing position was possible – St. George’s Hall.
The army had recognized that the tunnel system offered excellent defensive possibilities and continued to expand it over the next few years. By the end of the 18th century, 1200 meters of tunnels had been built, which were connected to each other.
Part of this tunnel system can be visited today.
Tunnel construction from 1880-1915
At the end of the 19th century, Gibraltar became a naval base. In 1880, two short tunnels were built in Camp Bay to provide access to a quarry. This was later followed by the construction of an east-west tunnel to reach Sandy Bay. The necessary building materials were also obtained there. In addition, the army created two caves under Windmill Hill, which were used to store ammunition.
Another problem was Gibraltar’s water supply, which was to be solved by the construction of underground reservoirs. The collected rainwater was transported through a tunnel.
Tunnel construction during the Second World War
The Spanish Civil War and the rise of the National Socialists in Germany led to the third tunnel construction period in Gibraltar. Further underground reservoirs were to ensure the water supply. Air raid shelters and hospitals were built in the rock.
By this time, the tunnel system had grown to a total length of 11 kilometers and was extended to 40 kilometers by the end of 1945. It was the most intensive period of tunnel construction and several specialist companies were involved in the work.
The aim was to create accommodation for the 16,000-strong garrison. In addition, space was needed for food, equipment and ammunition. In fact, a small town was created in the tunnels of Gibraltar in which people could survive for 16 months.
Part of this tunnel system is open to visitors today.
Gibraltar tunnels after the Second World War
During the Cold War, the British army continued to build the tunnel system unabated. These were designed to meet the latest military requirements. For example, further connecting tunnels, warehouses, additional reservoirs for the water supply and improved access from the road were created.
The last tunnel was completed in 1967, and in 1968 the tunnel construction team was disbanded and the project discontinued. Many tunnels have been decommissioned and must now be protected from decay. The rock is almost like a cheese with lots of holes and if tunnels were to collapse, other areas would be affected.
View into the tunnels
The first thing we noticed was the very different design of the tunnels. At the beginning, the excavation was carried out using the simplest means, but later blasting was used to make progress. The old tunnels were just as high as the people themselves. Later, trucks could drive through the tunnels without any problems. Some of the halls were so large that the army stored large quantities of material here, as well as several cars.
The high humidity proved to be particularly problematic. This not only affected the material, but was also difficult for the people to endure.
Great Siege Tunnel
The path to the Great Siege Tunnel leads downhill from the top station of the cable car and is well signposted. It is located in a nature reserve that can only be entered with a valid entrance ticket. This also gives you access to the tunnel.
However, we start our tunnel tour in front of the tunnel entrance. There is a viewing platform from which you have a wonderful view of the airport runway. We stopped there for a while to watch a plane take off. During this time, some tour operators stopped there, let the guests off to take photos and quickly drove on. To the disappointment of some visitors, a visit to the tunnels was not planned.
After the plane had taken off, we went into the Rock of Gibraltar, into the tunnels of Gibraltar!
The passage, which was mainly carved out with sledgehammers, crowbars and gunpowder, runs slightly downhill. It is not very high and not particularly wide. The work is said to have progressed very slowly at first. It took 13 men 5 weeks to complete 25 meters of tunnel. It was only when horizontal ventilation shafts were built that excavators could be used.
These air shafts were also ideal as embrasures for guns. The actual target was reached after 277 meters. St. George’s Hall, which was built here, can be visited today.
Today there is an exhibition in this and other sections of the tunnel. On display walls you can learn about the construction, the defensive measures and the history of Gibraltar. There are often mannequins in historical costumes depicting a scene from the time the tunnel was used.
The paths through the tunnel system are now well lit and evenly paved. I was a little surprised to hear marching music throughout. Perhaps it serves as a distraction so that you don’t succumb to the feeling of being trapped under masses of rock.
I was impressed by the tunnels, but I wouldn’t have wanted to stay there any longer.
Tunnel World War II
If you follow the roads on the cliff further downhill, you finally come to the entrance to the Gibraltar tunnels, which were built during the Second World War. These are also located in a nature reserve and can only be entered with the appropriate entry ticket.
Here you also have to wear a safety helmet for your own safety. These are located in large boxes right at the entrance and are available free of charge.
The tunnel walls are completely different here, much smoother and, above all, much higher. The paths are wide, even trucks can drive here without any problems. Large halls that used to serve as storage areas / parking lots border the paths. Some areas are so large that there used to be corrugated iron huts where the soldiers lived and worked.
Even though the network of tunnels is quite large, you can only visit a very small part of it. The paths are well signposted, brightly lit and paved. There are also information boards here, but I didn’t find them as detailed as in the older tunnel system.
I found the idea that people could have lived here for a year if necessary very depressing. Even if there was much more space, it would have been very cramped for 16,000 people. In any case, I was glad when we were able to step out of the damp and cool cave back into the warm sun.
Visitor information
Address:
Naturschutzgebiet, Upper Rock
Gibraltar
Opening hours
Monday – Saturday:
9 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Price
Included in the conservation fee. This costs £ 12.
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