{"id":24509,"date":"2023-09-24T10:30:16","date_gmt":"2023-09-24T08:30:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fromplacetoplace.travel\/?p=24509"},"modified":"2023-09-15T11:17:00","modified_gmt":"2023-09-15T09:17:00","slug":"kladruby-monastery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fromplacetoplace.travel\/czech-republic\/plzen\/kladruby-monastery\/","title":{"rendered":"Kladruby Monastery and Castle – Santini’s Monastery Church"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A little more than 30 kilometres from Pilsen, in Kladruby in the west of the Czech Republic, lies the beautiful Kladruby Monastery with its associated castle building. I was very impressed by the visit to the monastery church, what a beautiful and above all large building.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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\"Eingang<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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If you stop in the small car park in front of the mighty walls and the almost inconspicuous entrance, you can hardly guess what awaits you behind them.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

Various building complexes of the former Benedictine monastery, the castle and the monastery church form an impressive ensemble that is so rarely seen. Some areas are still being renovated, others have already been restored to reflect the splendour of the past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The time of the Benedictines in Kladruby Monastery<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Duke Vladislav I and his wife founded the monastery in 1115 during the Roman Catholic colonisation of the area. The monks of the Benedictine order settled there and lived there for the next centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kloster<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Due to attacks by the Hussites and later in the Thirty Years’ War, the abbey and the church suffered great damage. For a long time, the building stood without a roof and vault until it was partially rebuilt. It was not until the early 18th century that reconstruction began. The abbey church was built in the Baroque Gothic style according to the plans of the famous master builder Johann Blasius Santini-Aichl.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1785 Emperor Joseph II dissolved the monastery and most of the furnishings were sold. The now empty buildings were used as barracks and military hospitals, for example.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kloster<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Prince Alfred I of Windisch-Graetz acquired the Kladruby Monastery and the associated land in the region in 1825, but hardly used it. From 1863 a brewery was built in the new monastery and in 1874-86 the abbots’ mausoleum was converted into a family crypt. The remaining buildings were rebuilt and purposefully altered for the estate’s administrative needs. Ludwig Aladar Prince of Windisch-Graetz moved to Kladruby after the First World War. He set up a library and a family archive there. From 1938 to 1945 Kladruby belonged to the German Reich. In 1945, the entire property of the Windisch-Graetz family was confiscated in Czechoslovakia and is still state property today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Church of the Assumption – just wow!<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Even before our sightseeing tour, I was able to look at the church from the outside. Most of the fa\u00e7ades are quite plain. They are structured by buttresses, simple cornices, windows with profiled architraves and pointed lintels. The dome above the crossing, the west front and the north side of the transept are worthy of note.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Kuppel<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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The dome above the crossing is on an octagonal plan. The individual tambours are opened by large lancet windows, giving the 46-metre-high dome a light, almost weightless appearance. The entire dome is crowned by a Marian crown that sits on the octagonal lantern canopy.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

I enter the former abbey church through an entrance and my “wow!” almost sticks in my throat\u2026 what a large and beautiful church!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kloster<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Between 1712 and 1726, the master builder Johann Blasius Santini-Aichl created a church building that is almost unique in architectural history. Santini-Aichl came from a family of stonemasons, learned to be a painter and, after his years of travelling, lived permanently in Prague as a master builder from 1703. His clients were mainly ecclesiastical institutions and noble families, who financed his buildings, in which he combined Baroque and Gothic style elements. He died at the age of 46 and many of his Baroque-Gothic buildings remained unfinished.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reconstruction of the church took place in several stages. First, the three-nave church was built. Then the transept and a monumental dome over the crossing were built. From 1718, the reconstruction of the eastern part of the church, the monk’s choir and the choir could begin. A decisive factor in the reconstruction was that the still existing structures were incorporated into the new concept. The church was finally consecrated in 1726.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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As always, my first glance in a church is towards the ceiling. Here I have the feeling that I can hardly perceive the ceiling, so far above me it seems to float. A beautiful and elaborate vault that looks like an evenly spread, intricately curved and geometrically indeterminate surface captures my gaze for a while before I can perceive further details in the church.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\"Deckengew\u00f6lbe\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

In every church I admire the windows, which are usually decorated with beautiful pictures. Here I notice that all the windows are unadorned, designed only with slightly milky glass. As a result, the light falls wonderfully clear and bright into the nave and there is hardly any need for additional lighting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kloster<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the way to the altar, I pass numerous side altars, a beautiful choir stall and a pulpit in the nave. The latter was created by the artist Cosmas Damian Asam in 1726-27. Particularly impressive, however, is the view into the high dome, whose windows let a lot of light shine into the church. Here you can also admire the painting with a scene of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on the surface of the dome.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Kuppel<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The altar almost glows. Bright white figures shine in the light shining through the windows. Only when I get a little closer do I notice two larger angel figures in particular, which seem rather ugly in contrast to the actually beautiful figures on the altar. Why did the artist work so differently in the depiction, or was there a foreign artist at work who simply wasn’t as good? Or does this optical effect only occur when you stand directly in front of it and the angels look much more beautiful from a distance? I think in many churches you can find such details that are not exactly clear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n