Welcome to Coimbra, the capital of Portugal … not the current capital, but the capital of the years 1139 to 1256. 48 hours in Coimbra were barely enough for us to discover the lively student city properly.
A good 200 kilometres from Lisbon and about 100 kilometres from Porto, Coimbra is located on the railway line that connects these two cities. For us, the ideal place for a stopover during our journey.
The city stretches along both sides of the Rio Mondego. However, many day visitors are only in the right half of the city, which rises steeply on the bank. Our tip – split the 2 days and visit the other side of the river as well. It is worth it!
Coimbra’s history
The history of Coimbra is marked by different cultures. Its beginnings date back to Celtic times, but it was under the Romans that the place became known as Aeminium and served as a connecting point on an important road between Lisbon and Braga. The foundations of the aqueduct, rebuilt in the 16th century, and the cryptoporticus foundations under the old episcopal palace date from this period.
When Conimbriga, a nearby town, was destroyed by the Suebi, Aeminium took over their role and became the episcopal see. The city was later taken over by the Moors, but played only a minor role in the Muslim world of Al-Andalus. Despite several changes of power between Moors and Christians, it remained an important place in the region.
Coimbra even became the capital of the newly founded Kingdom of Portugal before Lisbon took over this role. But despite losing this status, Coimbra remained an important centre, especially as a university city. The University of Coimbra, founded in 1290, is a testament to the city’s educational tradition and is the oldest of its kind in Portugal.
But Coimbra also experienced hard times. The devastating earthquake of 1755 and the conflicts during the Napoleonic Wars left lasting marks on the city.
Under the influence of the Marquês de Pombal in the 18th century, the University of Coimbra received new impetus and the city also received an economic boost. This was intensified with the connection to the railway network.
In the 1940s, under the auspices of the authoritarian Estado Novo regime, monumental new construction with many new buildings was built on the university campus, which had a positive effect on the city’s development.
Today, the city hardly plays a role economically, but is very popular with tourists due to its rich culture.
10 Sights in Coimbra
The old town, nestled against the hill of the city, with its narrow winding streets is actually already the most beautiful sight of Coimbra. You can lose yourself here for hours, discovering little shops, feasting in restaurants or admiring the architecture, some of which is truly beautiful.
Don’t forget – there are beautiful places to discover on the other side of the river!
Old Sé Velha Cathedral
The old Sé Velha (Nossa Senhora da Assunção) Cathedral in Coimbra was the episcopal and diocesan church for the region until 1772.
It was built in the middle of the 12th century in the Romanesque style. In 1185, King Sancho I (1154 to 1211) had himself crowned in this church. It is not surprising that he chose this church, as Coimbra was the capital of Portugal at that time.
When we visited the city, there was a large construction site in front of the Old Cathedral. Nevertheless, it was possible to look at the façade, which is actually quite plain but has an impressive main portal. I was particularly struck by the battlements on the church. They make the building look almost like a small castle.
New Sé Nova Cathedral
If there is an Old Cathedral, there is usually also a New Cathedral. This is located almost at the highest point, on the Old Town Hill (140 m) of the city near the university.
Around 1541, the Jesuit order founded its first branch in Coimbra. They spent almost 100 years building and planning the convent complex and their church until everything was completed in 1698.
In the 1750s, the order was abolished and expelled from Portugal. From 1772, the church then used this building as an episcopal church and thus as the city’s New Cathedral.
In front of the church is a large car park, which unfortunately makes the view of the huge convent complex somewhat unattractive. The church is rather small in relation to the size of the convent. The lower part of the façade is in late Renaissance style. Here, only four figure niches divide the simple appearance. In the upper part of the façade, you can see baroque forms that give the church something interesting. I recognise a stone coat of arms, lunettes and small ornamental forms. Very inconspicuous are the bell towers, which are hardly higher than the church building.
You can visit the New Cathedral. I found the entrance fee (€1 in 2022) more than fair. I was very surprised when I stood in the beautiful church. From the outside, it looked like a church with three naves, but it only has one. I particularly liked the side altars.
If you go through a small door on one side, you enter the small museum with the church treasure.
Igreja de São João de Almedina
Across the street from the New Cathedral is the Church of São João de Almedina. It is part of the Episcopal Palace of Coimbra, which now houses the National Museum.
We looked at the façade as we walked past and then made our way to our actual destination, the National Museum.
Museu Nacional Machado de Castro
The National Museum is located in the former Bishop’s Palace of Coimbra, which has been extended with a modern new building. The museum is one of the most important museums of fine art in Portugal. The collection exhibited there includes important sculptures, paintings and decorative arts.
Since 2013, the museum has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the University of Coimbra – Alta e Sofia.
We were not drawn to the museum, but to the inner courtyard, which is open to the public. Here you don’t have a beautiful view over the city. But I was particularly impressed by the stone arches with the fountains in front of them. What a great photo motif.
Jardim Botanico
The Botanical Garden of the University of Coimbra is a 13.5 hectare botanical garden in Coimbra. It is said to be the largest botanical garden in the country.
The “Botanical Garden of the University of Coimbra” has existed since 1772 as part of the “Natural History Museum”. Over the years, not only were the grounds enlarged, but plants from other regions of the world began to be planted. Today, visitors can admire numerous plants belonging to the most diverse plant collections, such as tropical plants, various types of daffodils, ornamental plants, leguminous plants and rose plants.
We were in the Botanical Garden in December. At this time of year, there are no longer flowers on every corner, but we were lucky enough to see the trees in their most beautiful autumn colours. We strolled through the garden on shady paths past fountains. We also came to a huge bamboo forest. Tall poles swayed slightly in the wind. When they touched, I heard muffled sounds that were very soothing in combination with the rustling of the leaves.
At the edge of the bamboo forest is a small moss-covered chapel from the 17th century. It is said to have been built by monks of the Benedictine order.
For me, the walk through the Botanical Garden was a wonderful relaxation. Admission is free of charge, so it’s not surprising that students everywhere were taking advantage of their break and sitting in the December sun.
Aqueduto de São Sebastião – Arcos do Jardim
On one side of the Botanical Garden rise the Arcos do Jardim, which translates as “Arches of the Garden”. Hardly anyone uses the actual name Aqueduto de São Sebastião today.
The structure was already built under Roman rule and served to secure the city’s water supply. During warfare between Christians and Moors, the oversized water pipe was destroyed.
King Sebastian I commissioned an Italian master builder to build another aqueduct in 1583. He used not only the old foundations, but also many of the ancient building blocks for the new construction. He used the old course and connected the hills on which the monastery of Santana and the castle of Coimbra were located by overcoming a depression in 21 arches. However, I don’t know if water ever flowed through the reconstruction.
Coimbra University
Many day visitors come to Coimbra only to visit the famous library at the university. To visit, you have to book tickets in advance with a pre-set timeslot. The tickets are very popular, so it is better to think about it very early!
The University of Coimbra, was permanently established in Coimbra by King John III in 1537. The Jesuits were instrumental in shaping education from 1555 onwards, with their teachings heavily influenced by Aristotle. Historically, the university was the scientific centre of Portugal, to which magnificent buildings such as the university church and library bear witness.
The university shapes the cityscape and life in Coimbra. Since the 14th century, there have been the student housing groups, the “Repúblicas”, which provide for a dynamic student life and in whose environment the Fado de Coimbra, a strict student song form, originated.
The impressive university library Biblioteca Joanina, completed in 1728, is one of the most breathtaking in the world. The botanical garden, founded in 1772, is Portugal’s oldest and houses a variety of plant species, including exotic ones.
Finally, in 2013, certain university buildings in Coimbra were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Biblioteca Joanina
We started our visit to the university in the Joanina Library. There is no real guided tour. Every 20 minutes, groups of visitors are let into an anteroom. Already there are countless shelves of books. Here you also get an information sheet that contains the most important information about the library. Then comes the crucial part – photography is absolutely forbidden in the Joanina Library. A security guard stands in the room and keeps a very close eye on the visitors. He is also the one who later opens a door and thus ends the visiting time, which lasts exactly 10 minutes.
Then the door to the Joanina library opens and we are allowed to enter.
Books where the eye can see
The Biblioteca Joanina is not only one of the most magnificent libraries in the world, but also part of the University of Coimbra, one of Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious educational institutions.
Entering through the impressive portal, I quickly understand why this library is hailed as one of the greatest Baroque masterpieces. Located in the heart of the Faculty of Law, the Biblioteca Joanina opens its doors to a universe of knowledge spread over three magnificent halls.
Each room has its own character: the majestic black room, with its fine ebony shelves and gold ornaments, houses an impressive collection of ancient works. The red hall, dominated by mahogany and rosewood, displays a wealth of scientific works. The green room is dedicated to philosophy and theology.
With over 200,000 precious books ranging from ancient to early modern times, the Biblioteca Joanina is more than just a collection of books – it is a living monument to Portugal’s education and history.
Bats in the library
I was very surprised when I saw some tables with a kind of blanket on them. The library uses a remarkable natural method to protect the book collection: Bats. These little creatures live in the dark and cool rooms of the library and come out at night to eat insects that might otherwise damage the old and valuable books.
During the day, the bats hide in the crevices and behind the bookshelves, and at night, when the library is closed, they fly around and do their work as natural “pest controllers”. To protect the works from the bats’ excrement, special animal skins are spread out in the library and cleaned every morning.
The 10 minutes were over far too quickly and we had to leave this wonderful library again and stood in the large square surrounded by the university buildings.
Clock tower
The north side of the square is dominated by an elegant staircase that leads to the arcades of Via Latina. This was only added to the palace in the 18th century. The clock tower rises at one corner of the side. On the west side of the square I recognise the University Church and in the middle of the square stands a large monument, the Estátua de D. João III. The southern side of the square is unobstructed. From there I enjoy the view over the city before we go into the building to discover some more rooms.
Our first path led us to the clock tower. This was built in the 18th century and stands at the highest point of the city. No matter from which direction the traveller approaches the city, he will always see the clock tower first.
Our ticket included a visit to the tower. Unfortunately, it was closed the whole day and so we couldn’t enjoy the view from up there.
Church of the University
The entrance to the university church is in the building. The door was closed when we visited, a sign indicated that you should knock if you wanted to enter the church. “Knock and it will be opened to you” was really fitting. A student opened the door for us and let us into the church.
The São Miguel Chapel or Saint Michael’s Chapel (Capela de São Miguel) really excited me. Beautiful ornate azulejo wall tiles adorn the walls, a beautiful ceiling painting can be seen and a magnificent altar stands in the nave. The richly decorated baroque organ is very striking. The royal box in the church still shows that the chapel was once part of the royal palace. The university acquired the palace from the royal family in 1597 and made it accessible to students…
Even though there were not only tourists but also students in the aisle in front of the small church, there was no sign of them inside. It was quiet and reverent here.
Royal Palace
After visiting the church, we were drawn to the Royal Plast area, which can be visited today and is also used by university students on certain occasions.
Weapons room
In the course of the tour we come to the weapons room. The hall did not get its name because of the storage of weapons. It once served to protect the Royal Family and would have had to be crossed by attackers to get to them. It was only later that the guards stored their weapons there.
Here, for example, are weapons of the Royal Academic Guard that are still used in solemn academic ceremonies. However, I like the visual design of the room much more than the presentation of the weapons. Here, too, you will find beautifully designed tiles on the walls, showing graphic elements as well as pictures. The ceiling is characterised by an impressive painting.
Sala dos Atos Grandes
The Ceremonial Hall (Sala dos Atos Grandes) is one of the most important rooms of the university. It is still used today and is therefore not always open to the public. Academic ceremonies such as the conferral of doctorates and the ceremonial opening of semesters are held here.
Between 1143 and 1383, it was the throne room of the kings of the 1st Portuguese dynasty. However, it is no longer preserved as it was then. The current appearance is from the 17th century.
We cannot enter the hall, but can only view it from above through various open windows. I find the wooden ceiling impressive. If you look more closely, you will discover 172 grimace-like motifs. I have seen sea monsters, but there are also supposed to be Indians and mermaids.
“Hall of Trials”
Today’s “Hall of Personal Trials” is certainly the room where most students trembled the most. At that time, the room served as a royal rest room. Afterwards, oral examinations were held here. Only the examinee and the professors were present. This type of examination was abolished in the course of a major reform in the second half of the 18th century.
Anyone standing in the hall today can see the portraits of the 38 rectors from the 16th-18th centuries on the walls.
The “new” university
We leave the campus through the Porta Férrea. To this day, the historic gate symbolically represents for students the access to knowledge and the beginning of their academic journey at the university.
On the other side of the gate, a completely different picture of the university awaits us. Here we find large monumental buildings that were constructed in the 1940s. Even though this period is often hushed up, the buildings are really impressive from a purely architectural point of view. I really like the clear design language and structure of the buildings.
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha
After crossing the bridge over the Rio Mondego and now reaching the somewhat “less popular” side of town, we discovered a ruin at the edge of a large meadow. It was the ruin of the convent of Santa Clara-a-Velha (Old Saint Clare).
The monastery had stood on the banks of the river since the 14th century. In the 17th century, the inhabitants decided to abandon it. The river had overflowed its banks too often and flooded the monastery.
In the late 20th century, the well-preserved ruins were found during excavation work. Today, after extensive restoration work, a visitor centre is located there.
Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Nova
After passing through a very old gate, we stand in a large open square in front of the monastery. Here is a monument to Queen Elizabeth looking across the river towards Coimbra.
The convent has been the new home of the nuns who had to abandon the convent of Santa Clara-a-Velha right on the banks of the river. The convent was built in the 17th and 18th centuries. After its completion, not only the nuns but also the Gothic tombs of Queen Elizabeth and other royal princesses moved into the new convent.
The church, consecrated in 1696, has a single-nave nave and no transept. The interior is lit by a row of clerestory windows on the second floor of the nave. The chapels house 14 altarpieces with gilded carvings in the late 17th century style. The altarpiece of the main altar contains the tomb of Saint Queen Elizabeth, the founder of the monastery. A truly beautiful church.
From the church we go into the cloister of the monastery. A cloister runs around a leafy courtyard. I would have liked to stay longer in this place of peace, we were the only visitors. Sitting here and letting the day be the day and just enjoying existence – beautiful!
Quinta das Lágrimas Gardens
The Quinta das Lágrimas comprises 12 hectares of gardens and a palace that has been converted into a luxury hotel. We were not drawn to the luxury hotel, but to the garden.
A little uncertainly, we first stood in front of a rather inconspicuous entrance gate that led us to a small golf course. Following the path, we arrived at a small restaurant and discovered the sign for buying tickets to the garden.
Playing golf for everyone
During a short chat, we learned that the golf course “only” consists of the practice area for tee-offs and a small area where you can practise putting. Everyone is allowed to try golf here. We couldn’t be told twice …
2 rental rackets and a big basket full of balls and off we went. We were quickly shown how to hold the rackets and then we started hitting the balls. Always with a lot of swing, mostly with good success and sometimes just bouncing over the grass, the balls flew over the court. We had fun! It was a great change during our sightseeing tour of the city.
Into the garden
After the balls were wildly scattered on the lawn, we continued to the actual “reason for the visit” in the garden of the estate. This was once the hunting ground of the Portuguese royal family, then went to the city’s university and was then used by a religious order. In 1730, it was acquired by the Osório Cabral de Castro family, who also had the palace built.
The leisurely walk through the park grounds led us past the neo-Gothic arch from the 19th century. It stands between the trees like a ruin of an old building.
Legend of Prince Pedro
From there we reached the “Fonte das Lágrimas”, which translates as “Fountain of Tears”. The name goes back to the legend of Prince Pedro and his bride Inês de Castro. They allegedly had a forbidden royal love affair that lasted for years, starting in 1340. This ended tragically in 1355 when Pedro’s father, King Alonso IV, suspecting Inês and her family of making claims to the throne, ordered his henchmen to stab her to death. When Pedro’s wife died in childbirth, he secretly married the already deceased Inês, who became Queen of Portugal by law After his father’s death, Pedro became King of Portugal in 1357 and the dead Inês became Queen. He ordered the men responsible for the murder of his mistress to be killed. He also wanted the courtiers to recognise her as their new queen and reburied her body in the royal tomb. To do this, he exhumed her, placed her on the throne next to him and had the entire court swear allegiance to his queen.
The fountain “Fonte Das Lágrimas” stands on the property on the exact spot where Inês was slain, and supposedly her blood still stains its stone bottom, created from her tears. It is even said that the spirit of Inês still roams the estate, eternally searching for her lost love Pedro.
Travel information about Coimbra
Arrival
By plane Just 10 km south of Coimbra is the Aeródromo Municipal Bissaya Barreto, a small airfield for private and business flights. For regular flights, the nearest airports are Lisbon and Porto. From these airports, Coimbra can be easily reached by bus, train or rental car.
By train Coimbra is a stop on the Lisbon-Porto line. There are hourly IC trains as well as the faster Alfa Pendulars (reservation required). There are also regional trains, but they are hardly cheaper in price.
There are three train stations in Coimbra. Most trains stop at Coimbra-B station, which is just outside the centre. From here you can take a taxi into the centre or take a connecting train to the more centrally located Coimbra-A station. A ticket to Coimbra-B also entitles you to travel to Coimbra-A. This station is on the outskirts of the city centre and is ideal for pedestrians. The third station, Coimbra-Parque, is currently without a train connection, but will be connected in the future by the Mondego metro.
By car Coimbra has two junctions on the A1 motorway between Lisbon and Porto. The journey from Lisbon takes about 2 hours, from Porto about 1½ hours. Coimbra can also be reached via the A14, which continues to Figueira-da-Foz. If you don’t want to use the motorways, you can travel via country roads such as the IP2 from Lisbon or Porto, and the IP3 from the north-east.
By bus Portugal has an excellent intercity bus network that makes getting to Coimbra easy and cheap. The bus station is located just outside the city centre. A taxi might be useful for the 30-minute walk to the centre.
On the way in…
In Coimbra, urban transport is mainly by bus, operated by Transportes Urbanos de Coimbra. A special line, called Pantufinas and recognisable by a blue marking on the road, uses small electric buses. These buses have no fixed stops, but stop anywhere along the route when passengers want to get on or off.
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