Viveiro is located in Galicia and is one of the liveliest towns in the coastal region. Spaniards in particular know the place. One of the most elaborate Good Friday processions in the region takes place here, attracting numerous visitors.
In the Ría of Viveiro, the largest estuary of the Cantabrian Sea, the river Landro flows into the sea. Viveiro is located at this estuary. A dreamlike landscape stretches around the town, which is an ideal starting point for discovery tours.
Historical findings prove a fairly early settlement by Celts and Romans in the region. The name of the town is said to derive from the Roman bridge “Puente de Vivario”.
Viking attacks on the city are also known, which were one of the reasons for the massive fortification of the city. If you go on a tour of the city, you will discover the remains of the city wall and the city gates, for example.
Even in the holiday season, relatively few holidaymakers are attracted to Viveiro. A pity, really, because the town has flair. Tiny alleys wind through an ancient town centre. Small shops entice with traditional products, small cosy bodegas and taverns invite you to enjoy the Galician food and wine.
Glass verandas in Viveiro
Architecturally, I find the large glass verandas that can be seen everywhere in the townscape particularly interesting. Whereas in other regions of Spain people tend to build houses with small windows to keep the summer heat out, in Viveiro it’s the other way around. Here, the houses have large glazed verandas that bring as much of the sun as possible into the flats. The region tends to be more humid, cooler and less sunny than other Spanish regions in terms of weather. With the help of this construction method, the residents manage to bring light and warmth into their homes.
Iglesias de Santa María del Campo
Two towers, the clock tower and the bell tower, flank the church portal. Behind the church is the Convento de las Concepcionistas (Convent of the Conceptionists).
The Romanesque church is the starting point of a large procession through the city during Holy Week. Wax figures are carried to the replica of the Lourdes Grotto. Believers hang the figures here and pray for the desired healing. This replica of the grotto is the second most important place of pilgrimage in Galicia after Santiago de Compostela.
Puerta de Carlos V (Castelo da Ponte)
Construction of the gate began in 1548 to replace an older structure. It is the work of Pedro Poderoso and was built as a tribute to Emperor Charles V. The latter had exempted the city from taxes until its reconstruction after the fire of 1540.
The façade consists of different parts. The first part opens onto a spectacular semicircular arch framed by the coats of arms of Galicia and Viveiro. An elaborate cornice with a balustrade, portholes and ornate battlements finishes the doorway upwards.
Church San Pedro
The church of San Pedro is the oldest preserved church in the region. It dates back to the 6th century.
Ponte da Misericordia
The Ponte da Misericordia is a very long bridge that, according to historical documents, has existed since 1225, although its reconstruction began in 1462 under the reign of Enrique IV and was completed in 1544 on the orders of Carlos V. Of the original twelve arches, only nine are visible today, as the original appearance has been altered by constant extensions and subsequent modifications.
The bridge served as a landing stage and as a loading and unloading place with a crane. Here is the “Cruz do Rollo” and at its end the Ecce Hommo Chapel and the Pazo de la Misericordia.
Plaza Mayor
The Plaza Mayor is framed by various buildings that all have elements of northern Spanish architecture in common: Slate roofs, wrought-iron balconies, glazed galleries and granite or masonry walls.
The square has been remodelled several times over the years, when the Parish Church of Santiago (1840), the pillory, the prison and the Casa de los Corregidores (1874) were demolished.
In the square is the statue of the writer and politician Nicomedes Pastor Diaz, from 1891.
It is also worth taking a look at the ornate sundial of the old town hall, which depicts the largest bridge and the passing lion of the Viveiro coat of arms.
The visit to Viveiro took place as part of the journey with the Costa Verde Express.
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