The church treasure of the Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora del Carmen Coronada in Jerez
I stand under the wings of the angels hanging next to the giant figure high above the altar and look into the Basilica of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. What a unique experience during our visit to the church museum in Jerez.
The Carmelite order was the first Christian order to be founded in Jerez after the reconquest of the city. In 1587 they were still living in an old Benedictine monastery outside the city walls, but the members of the order were able to move to their town within the city walls as early as 1600. Initially, there was a chapel on the site where the church building stands today. A monastery building followed later.
In 1925, one of the most important events in church history took place, the canonical coronation of the image of the Virgin of Carmen. This event was even attended by King Alfonso XIII and Queen Victoria Eugénie of Battenberg, the princes and government ministers.
In 1968, the then Pope elevated the baroque church to the status of a basilica minor.
Visit to the church museum
We wanted to visit the church museum in Jerez and first had to find the entrance. There was a door with a sign for the museum, but it was locked. So we tried our luck in the church and found someone there who was able to help us. A quick phone call and our guide through the exhibition arrived.
Church building
While we were waiting, we had a look around the church.
The church has a rectangular floor plan and three naves. The main altarpiece was made at the end of the 19th century. It shows images of the Holy Angel and the Virgen del Carmen from the 18th century.
I really like the church interior, even if it is quite dark. The beautiful ceiling design is particularly beautiful. In the side aisles, there are elaborately designed side altars which, in addition to their actual ecclesiastical function, look more like works of art to me. At one point, I discover the church’s nativity scene, which uses modern illumination to show the scene of the baby Jesus lying in the manger.
Church museum in Jerez
The museum has existed since 1980 but has only been open to the public since 2018.
More than 1000 exhibits from the 16th-19th centuries are on display. The exhibition of sacred art is divided into different sections:
Chapel and Protagonists of the Coronation.
Paintings from the 17th to 19th centuries
Embroideries and ornaments
Sculptures
Gold and silversmith’s work
Provincial library
We begin our tour with a look at the beautiful embroidery on the priests’ garments. The liturgical vestments were
Here we are shown the Flemish lace garments worn by the Virgen del Carmen of Jerez on the day of her canonical coronation on April 23, 1925.
I am very impressed by the craftsmanship of these garments. It must have taken quite a long time to complete one of these pieces.
In another section of the church museum in Jerez, we come to paintings from the 16th – 19th centuries. These depict religious scenes and were painted by well-known artists. Unfortunately, the names of the painters mean nothing to me, but I can still enjoy their works. In particular, the works of the Sevillian painter José Mª Rodríguez de Losada (19th century) are repeatedly pointed out to us.
I particularly like some of the paintings, such as the work of Claudio Coello. He was one of the most important representatives of the Madrid Baroque school. His painting is richly colored and is characterized by the presence of a large number of figures.
Another painting that I really liked is by an unknown artist from the 17th century. The painting shows Mount Carmel in the center – where the Carmelite order was founded by a group of crusaders during the Second Crusade (1147-1149). Members of the order depart from the mountain in a procession. The coat of arms of the order can also be seen. A very detailed picture that I could have stood in front of forever to discover all the details.
There are also gold and silversmith works on display, such as crosses and cups. What I find more interesting, however, are the various sculptures that showcase outstanding sculpting skills.
What a view
In addition to all these art treasures in the church museum in Jerez, which really can be described as church treasures, we came to the biggest surprise – the most unusual view into the church.
We step through a small passageway and actually find ourselves above the altar, directly beneath the large group of figures that dominate the nave. We move carefully around the precious carved figures. I don’t know exactly what I like more. The view into the church and the impressive design of the ceiling or the fact that I’m standing under the wings of angels.
Biblioteca Provincial Carmelitana
Our tour ends with a look into the library of the Carmelite order. The 15,000 or so volumes here are not on old shelves. But just looking at the spines of the books makes you feel as if you’ve traveled back in time.
Large, heavy, leather-bound books are well arranged in two rooms. The room called “Pergaminos” contains books from the 15th-18th century written on parchment. A second room is divided into various sections. Here are books of great value in terms of content and bookbinding, many of which are first editions. I find it particularly exciting that there are also music books here. One of them was open and we were able to take a look at it.
Leave a Reply