The jewel of Plzen: the impressive Great Synagogue
I am standing in front of one of the city’s most impressive buildings, the Great Synagogue in Pilsen, and I am looking forward to visiting it. The last time I was in Plzen, it was being restored – now the building is gleaming and looks almost like new.
The Great Synagogue in Plzen or Great Synagogue of Plzeň is said to be the second largest synagogue in Europe and the third largest in the world. However, since there are no uniform measurements or regulations for this claim, one also finds statements such as the third largest “building of its kind” in Europe and fifth largest in the world. I don’t really care whether it’s second, third or fourth, the synagogue is big and impressive in any case. I think a visit to the city’s landmark is simply a must during a stay in Plzen.
History of the Great Synagogue Plzen
The synagogue was built between 1888 and 1893 in neo-Romanesque style with Moorish elements. This mix of styles was very popular for synagogue buildings in Europe in the second half of the 19th century.
The architect Emanuel Klotz designed the impressive building, which was later completed by his colleague Matěj Blecha.
The Great Synagogue was built at a time when the Jewish community in Plzen was growing and flourishing. The building was intended not only to serve as a religious centre, but also to symbolise the strength and contribution of the Jewish community to Plzen society. Many wealthy members of the community financed the construction. With its completion, the congregation moved from the Old Synagogue, which had become too small in the meantime, to the new place of worship.
During the Second World War, the synagogue was used as a warehouse for confiscated Jewish property. This was certainly a good idea, because the building survived the war almost undamaged. Later, the army set up a kind of sewing workshop for German soldiers’ uniforms in the rooms. The towers served the German occupiers as strategic points (for orientation during overflights), which saved the Great Synagogue from destruction.
After the war, only a few congregation members were left in the city, most had fled or been killed in concentration camps. The Great Synagogue was far too large for the remaining congregation members and they could no longer maintain it. Increasingly dilapidated, it was finally closed. In 1973, the last service took place and from then on the congregation met again in the Old Synagogue.
Even after the Velvet Revolution in 1989, it was still not possible for the community to raise the necessary funds for maintenance. From 1995, then with the help of the city, the synagogue and the neighbouring rabbi’s house began to be renovated in two large stages.
Since 2022, the building has shone in its former glory, both inside and out. Not only tourists are drawn there. The congregation also uses the Great Synagogue again and in addition, numerous events take place there. The room is particularly popular for concerts. The acoustics are unique and the music fills the whole room.
Sculpture „Šlépěje“
Even before I enter the Great Synagogue in Plzen, I spot the almost inconspicuous sculpture “Šlépěje”, which means footprints, on the steps in front of the building.
Feet of different sizes commemorate the transport of the Jewish population to the Nazi extermination camps. A small memorial plaque mounted on a step reads “Do not forget us”.
It is a pity that many visitors overlook this small yet significant site on their way in or out of the building, as it says so much ….
Great Synagogue Plzen – Insights
If you are looking for the Great Synagogue in Plzen, all you really have to do is look for the two towers, which are about 45 metres high. These are rather unusual, as synagogues often have only one tower. I find the red domes of the towers even more unusual, which remind me more of Arabic towers of a mosque.
On the gable of the Great Synagogue there are two tablets in Hebrew script. The Ten Commandments are supposed to be written there, but unfortunately I can’t read the writing.
After entering the building, you can buy your ticket at a small ticket counter. During my visit in 2023, it was possible to pay by credit card.
According to Jewish tradition, men are given a kippah to wear during the visit. These are, of course, not as robust as the kippah that male Jews bring with them. It blows off the head with every step and many a visitor bends down more towards the floor than looking at the beautiful ceiling design, for example. What is the secret to making a kippah fit well? It’s surprisingly simple: Jews who frequently wear a kippah know the right place on the head – right at the crown. Those who wear the traditional Jewish head covering for longer can use a small hair clip, even if it is not appreciated. I have even read that some men fix the kippa to their head with tape, but I can hardly imagine that.
Following a small corridor, I finally reached the very large church interior. The stained glass windows, which catch the light in different shades, create a special atmosphere that is both solemn and inviting. The room is bright, but is additionally illuminated by numerous glittering gold lamps.
The walls are decorated with Hebrew inscriptions and other Jewish symbols. The ceiling design clearly shows Moorish style elements. I like the colour scheme, which makes the whole room look very noble.
Over 2000 visitors should find a seat on the simple wooden benches at events.
In the upper galleries of the synagogue, which I reach via a staircase, there is a permanent exhibition on the theme “Jews lived here”. I have to admit that the exhibition did not interest me as much, but the view down into the synagogue’s large room did. I think it is only from up there that the height of the Great Synagogue in Plzen really becomes noticeable. Although I am already high up on the gallery, the ceiling seems to be a long way off.
Through the back exit I reach a small courtyard. There is the two-storey rabbi’s house, built in neo-Romanesque style. Today, the souvenir shop is housed here. The entrance that leads into the synagogue is much simpler, but I like it very much.
Leave a Reply